White GTS-T

Updates?

^Cheers. So, this care package just arrived.

I don't know what's sweeter, Rekorderlig cider, or this build. Props.

While I agree with Simon, in regards to setup, if I was just starting out, this is what I would do. (I don't mean to hi-jack) Firstly, keep the car at a reasonable height. Max out the front camber. If you want, you could run s14 lca's for more track and even some eccentric clevis bolts for more front camber and better sai. Run 7-8 degrees of castor and 6 or so mm of toe out to help with turn in. Rack spacers are a quick, cheap and easy way to get more lock. There's no need for knuckles when starting out. A tight or shimmed lsd is a good starter, don't start out with a welded diff. A gtr rear sway bar would be a good addition. Start out with zero toe on the rear and work your way in as you get more comfortable. Same goes for rear camber, and standing the wheels more upright. But most importantly don't forget to have fun. Oh, and keep an eye on those temps. Hope that helps.

Looks great. Do you mind sharing where you sourced them from?

I would say somebody switched the plug/connectors to the washer motors, most probably because the front motor stopped working.

Are they 2-UP clear headlight covers?

They are actually Bursons/Motorgear items, but they look and feel fantastic. They're stronger and more flexible than the standard rubber items and being VT Commodore boots they are always in stock. I get all my parts through Jesse Streeter and I can't recommend him highly enough.

Thanks for the comments, I really appreciate it. Landsribble, I can't definitively say yet, as I have only done a handful of street km since fitting the Hicas eliminator kit. But I understand what you are saying, as even with the quality of the Midori Seibi kit there was the provision for the bracket to be mounted a couple of degrees either side of horizontal. Foregoing that, I can see how it could change the toe, if the bolt was to loosen. Hence, I have just ordered a set of Ikeya Formula Maple A-One gauges, so I will be able to keep a closer eye on the wheel alignment. I'll report back my findings.

So the other day while removing all the HICAS gear I noticed that the L/H tie rod end had some play and that that the L/H rack end boot was split. I've had this a set of Ikeya Formula tie rods and tie rod ends as spares for years, so I thought I'd fit up the new ones and keep the used ones as spares. I also noticed that the steering rack bushes were looking a bit worse for wear, so I arranged a new set to fit up. I wanted to fit Nismo bushes, but there is no listing for the L/H bush for twin cam R32's. I've still got $200 worth of Burson's vouchers left over from a Chritmas bonus so that made these Superpro items hard to go past. Here you can see the new rack bushes fitted up and also the offset rack spacers. Here's a look at the modified lock stops on the R33 LCA's and the modified knuckles, all in the hunt for more steering lock. L/H side all fitted up with new silicon rack end boots. R/H side done. Next up is to paint the Brembo calipers and get the brakes all sorted and some tyres fitted to the TE's

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oeO2q8FzcnM

Fit a new battery.

How hard is it to try the old pump with the new wiring configuration and double check the pressure again, to rule out the new pump?

What voltage is present at the pump now, as apposed to before? Is the FPR adjustable?

I would say it's in the door blend motor/actuator for the fresh/recirc vent flap.

How did it sound when it did turn over? Did it spin over quickly or was it slowly? It sounds like the starter is cactus, drawing a too many amps causing the terminal to glow, or possibly the motor was hydraulically locked? Was the negative jumper lead on your car connected to the negative terminal on your battery or to an earth on the motor? Also, ensure you check all fusible links, fuses and wiring.

That's okay. I'm assuming that's at idle, with no load? What about with high beams on and when you give it a rev?

If they are the BF series it means that the control box is not getting a signal from the sensor. Either because the sensor is faulty or there is a problem with the wiring/connector. Edit: beaten to it.

^^^This. according to VicRoads, I have a 2003 R32 Skyline.

Is Alfa an acronym? I'm curious as to why you called it the Alfa version and not the Alpha version?

Check to see that the alternator is charging. If the ignition system, electronics etc aren't receiving the required voltage the car will display the described effects.

Usually an exhaust leak will be more pronounced when the engine is cold, and be audible under most conditions. The duty cycle solenoid, however, points to the root cause of both of the aforementioned problems.

I would be the checking the boost controller solenoid.

I just picked up these Brembo stencils from the graphics designer. I'm still undecided on whether to paint them myself or to get them powder coated. But this is the colour scheme I'm after. Should look nice behind the TE37SL's.