White GTS-T

They come in a kit.

F1 Germany: Webber Tire hits Cameramanhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJamdopUhgg

I can't even fathom how gut wrenchingly devastating that must have been for Webber and to now be expected to now put his head down and push to the limit. Hopefully this safety car bodes well for him by bunching up the pack.

Just Nismo. Kazz, Tomei, Cusco etc retain the standard half shafts..

^^^You are right, the half shafts are also required.

Haha cheers man. I'm looking forward to your tune results.

Winton Members Day 04 10 2010 Vicdrift Members Day 09

Attended a few Tailem Bend drift days

some 25/30 Kai pics.

Unless told otherwise, I would just drive it normally, and change the oil after a few hundred kilometers, especially if you are reusing the standard diff center. While all new gear sets require a break in period, the running in of a diff, such as doing figure 8's, is only really to bed in the clutch packs of a new lsd, such as an aftermarket 2-way for example.

Your car being so twisty on the road!? Hello, guys. Have you had strut tower bars yet?

The pièce de résistance

Some more parts that I have been collecting. R33 GTR Brembo calipers front and rear. Genuine Nissan front and rear caliper seal kits to suit Brembos. Project MU braided brake lines front and rear. Project Mu HC+ brembo brake pads front and rear. Project Mu SCR Brembo rotor front and rear Project Mu Super 7 lock nut Project MU brake and clutch fluid reservoir covers.

So today, for the first time in a long time I worked on the car. Some of the aforementioned new parts that I have to be fitted include this Midori Seibi HICAS eliminator kit. Now I had already fitted the Tomei HICAS eliminator kit years ago, but this time I wanted to do away with the HICAS rack and all associated plumbing. I was so glad to see this all go. I put all the old HICAS gear on the refrigeration scales. The total weight saving came in at around 15kg. The rear end is much simpler now. A quick bypass of the front HICAS pump, a change and bleed of fresh p/s fluid and adjusting the rear toe and it's right to go. (mind the mess)

Ladies, gents. I've been a long time lurker here on SAU, (since 2006) and I have only recently began to post more regularly and I've enjoyed it so much I decided to start a build thread. For those interested, a bit of history on the car and myself. Please feel free to skip. My name is Tim and I'm 26 Y.O. qualified mechanic and fridgy in Horsham Victoria. I first purchased this car in 2006 after saving up enough money working during my gap year. Mechanically the car was pretty standard (cat-back exhaust, lowered struts etc) but it was quite neat and coming from a Mitsubishi Colt, I thought it was a rocket ship. Time passed and I went to Uni, but I couldn't stand seeing my mates back home modifying their cars and entering drift events, while I stood on the side lines and watched. I was offered an Apprenticeship during my Uni holidays and now, I'm still there to this day. I slowly began to modify my car and I entered as many Vicdrift days at Winton as I could afford. Only earning $6 an hour limited me to about 3 drift days a year. Both myself and the car slowly improved but as time went on, the mates that I would embark on Drift days with, either sold up, moved on/away, had families etc and suddenly I was the only one left. I attended a few drift days by myself but it just wasn't the same. So here I was, stuck in Apprenticeship,a purpose built car with no purpose, no mates and no outlet. Before long I was diagnosed with depression, anxiety etc and both myself and the car were a lot worse for wear. But here I am writing this in the hope that it will provide me with some direction and something to look forward to. In saying that, I have recently purchased some new parts for the car to give it a revamp of sorts. Details of these parts will come later but current specs of the car are as follows; 10/92 R32 GTS-T type M manual coupe. RB20DET 170,xxxkm. Engine: HKS 25/30 KAI turbo kit with flame proof sleeving for the braided lines. Kn'N M's air filter with custom 3" intake to turbo CAI with carbon fiber air box. GTR blow of valve plumbed back. Tomei Poncams. Greddy V-SPL tube and fin FMIC. No A/C Koyo 52mm alloy radiator. Cusco radiator cooling plate/air guide. R33 fan shroud. R34 Neo clutch hub and fan. HKS oil cooler kit with remote filter mount (inc. temp and pressure sensors) made up of Earls braided lines and fittings. 3" turbo back exhaust with twin 3" tips. Greddy catch can. Custom bash plate to protect the sump from Winton's big ripple strips. Silicon radiator hoses with temp sensor adapter in upper hose. Turbosmart silicon joiners. Wurth hose clamps. BCP6E-11 spark plugs. Makes 220rwkw on a "Safe as houses" tune. Electronics: AP Engineering Apexi Power FC Z32 AFM Nismo 550cc injectors. Apexi AVC-R (black) Apexi turbo timer (black) Defi BF 60mm white boost gauge Defi BF 60mm white oil temp gauge Defi BF 60mm white oil pressure gauge Defi BF 60mm white water temp gauge Defi control unit. Tomei Hicas lock. HKS twin power CDI and harness. Splitfire coil packs. New genuine coil pack harness. Bosch 040 Suspension/Driveline: Tein Super Drift coilovers. (7kg fr. & 5kg rr) 24mm Whiteline front adjustable sway bar (set to soft) 22mm Whiteline rear adjustable sway bar (set to hard) Cusco front upper camber arms (10mm shorter) Cusco castor rods Cusco castor rod/k-frame brace R33 front lower control arms (longer than R32) NP Knuckles. NP offset rack spacer. Ikeya formula tie rods Ikeya formula tie rod ends. Cusco rear camber arms Cusco traction rods. Cusco front strut tower bar. Cusco rear strut tower bar. Cusco BMC stopper. Tomei Hicas lock Kit. Excedy 5 puk button clutch. Kazz 2-way diff. Brakes: All new genuine handbrake cables from handbrake to drums. Project MU drift handbrake shoes Bendix ultimate pads front and rear. Interior: Brown Davis half cage with harness bar and removable side intrusion bars. Willans four point harness (x2) with Willans Harness pads (x4) Nardi 350mm Deep corn steering wheel. Nismo leather shift knob. Bride Brix drivers seat. R32 GTR passenger seat. No rear seats. New genuine mid console, dash surround, handbrake and gear boots. Spin turn/drift handbrake and button. Exterior: Sunroof Trust front bumper R32 GTR bonnet, grill and latch. Type M side skirts. Type M rear pods/bibs. No rear spoiler. LED light up 'SKYLINE' rear garnish. Couple of stickers here and there. Wheels/Tyres: Volk Racing GT-7 wheels. 17x8+10 front with 215/45/17 Federal 595's 17x9+16 rear with 235/45/17 Fedreal 595's Ray's Blue duralimun wheel nuts. Wheel Alignment: Front 3.5 degrees negative camber 7.0 dergress positive castor 6mm total toe out. 3mm each side. Rear 1.0 degree negative camber 0 rear toe. Servicing: Tuned for and only ran on BP98. Genuine oil filter and Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40 engine oil changed before and after each track day and probably less than 2500km in between or every 6 months. Copper plugs changed every 2500km Subaru upper cylinder cleaner each service. (this stuff is gold) Genuine fuel filter( 6months/2500km) Tectaloy 100 coolant.( 6months) Shell Donax Td 5w-30 P/S fluid. ( 6months/2500km) Redline lightweight synthetic shockproof gearbox oil. Kazz diff oil. Shell dot 4 Clutch and brake fluid.( 6months/2500km) Obligatory pics. Thanks for reading.

Yeah, sorry, I was just going from memory, it's been a while since I installed mine. This will help. http://www.fd3s.net/avc-r_manual.pdf

Normally In = NI Normally Out = NO The solenoid vents the pressure coming from the turbo until it reaches the preset boost level and then it allows that pressure to flow to the wastegate.

Hmm, A Nismo Super Coppermix Twin Plate, (Inc. flywheel, flywheel bolts, release bearing, clutch fork boot etc) through Jesse Streeter will be close to your budget, but perhaps a bit overkill for your application. You might be better off giving NPC a call and going from there. A lot of people here rate them highly. NPC Performance Clutches Address: 594 Boundary Rd, Archerfield QLD 4108 Phone:(07) 3277 9403

What's your budget?

Good hustle.

So this has a Tomei Genesis crate motor?

Just to clarify, was the stud that you cut, the one that broke?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volk-Racing-RAYS-Rim-Wheel-Lock-Lug-Nut-Key-Adapter-27-27mm-35mm-50mm-Long-/330898945622?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ANissan&hash=item4d0b1d3656

Notice how the keyway is offset? Just match it up to your lock nuts.

What number was the lock nut key? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volk-Racing-RAYS-Rim-Wheel-Lock-Lug-Nut-Key-Adapter-37-27mm-35mm-50mm-Long-/330929566455?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d0cf072f7&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volk-Racing-RAYS-Rim-Wheel-Lock-Lug-Nut-Key-Adapter-27-27mm-35mm-50mm-Long-/330898945622?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d0b1d3656&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volk-Racing-RAYS-Rim-Wheel-Lock-Lug-Nut-Key-Adapter-47-27mm-35mm-50mm-Long-/230986699129?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35c7e15179&vxp=mtr