White GTS-T

The stud is an interference fit in the top hat, just like a wheel stud in a hub. Remove the coilover and place a socket on the underside of the top hat that fits over the base of the stud. Support the bottom of the socket on a work bench, or the like, and hit the top of the stud with a hammer. If you have access to a puller/press all the better.

It's a bit hard to tell from that photo but they are actually two pieces of different sized vacuum hose, 6mm and 8mm, for attaching to different sized vacuum ports/nipples on the intake plenum. The Wurth system cleaner is a bit different to the Subaru stuff. The Wurth cleaner is more of an aqueous solution, while the Subaru cleaner is more of a foaming agent. Which is probably why the instructions for the Wurth cleaner are a bit different. Subaru cleaner on the left and the Wurth cleaner on the right, which you can barely see. Both work well, and cost us about the same price at about $14 to $15 a can. I'd say the Subaru cleaner cleans the plenum better, by design and it's intended use, by breaking up the carbon deposits in the manifold. But the Wurth cleaner, due to its more non-combustible nature, seems to create more smoke/vapour/steam out the exhaust which I assume is due to the breaking down of carbon in the combustion chamber. But I'd say it's much of a muchness.

It does look cleaner without, but it is there for a reason. Did you have the head shaved/skimmed at all? Or at the very least, clean it up with an oil stone? I'm just asking because the block and head surfaces need to be flat, especially when using a MLS head gasket.

I took this photo at work today for 'zoomzoom'. This attachment make life much easier.

Genuine Nissan Cam / Crank Angle Sensor (CAS) (23731-02U11) - Nissan Skyline R32 GTR / GTS / GTS-4 / GTS-t / GTS25, R33 GTR / GTS25 / GTS-4 / GTS25-t & Stagea WGNC34 RS-Four. This item supersedes, or is interchangeable with, the following part number(s): Nissan 23731-02U10 Nissan 23731-08U00

Check the FPCM (Fuel Pump Control Module)

Has anyone used this post AFM and pre-turbo, to clean the cooler and piping?

If you read the directions on the can, it stipulates to spray half of the contents into the inlet manifold while the motor is off and to wait 10-15mins before starting so it can do it's thing. Then, when it eventually starts, it will take some cranking to get it going, speed the motor up to 2000-2500rpm and spray the rest of the contents on and off letting the motor breath. The revs will drop as the nozzle on the can is depressed.

If you can, get a puller in behind the sprocket and push off of the crank snout. Otherwise cut it and then by a new one before you wreck the crank/oil pump. http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nissan-crankshaft-sprocket-kit-genuine-nissan-rb20et-rb20det-rb25det-rb30et-p-1197.html

FPCM? (Fuel Pump Control Module) *Edit. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/137043-fuel-pump-control-module-dropping-resistor/

*Waits for pics

If you haven't already seen it, you might appreciate this. http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/05/7-second-itch-thegds-motorsport-gtr/

Keen for pics

I have a pair of front upper control arms if you need.

Swap it out for a .63 housing.

It looked like Webber was going backwards at the start.

No. Also a metal center/non padded steering wheel is not allowed.

...No dice. *Edit: Some of my content has come through just now. Thanks.

Recent posts haven't been updated, but i'll check to see if this post does.

Was the check engine light on at all? How many KM's has the car done and what is the service history like? Maybe the timing chain has stretched resulting in the aforementioned trouble codes.

Price on the Brembo calipers?

Take the return line off and run it until it stalls.

Did they adjust the cam timing?