White GTS-T

Yeah i guess it just depends on the circumstances, tuner, time etc. But setting up the actuator is something you can do yourself and then just have the AFR's checked on the dyno. What duty cycle is the Boost control kit set to at the moment?

Have you checked the actuator pre-load?

A few of mine from the weekend.

Fair enough. I just ask because if your looking at running NP knuckles, as i am, then you could eliminate the need to run the offset spacer by modding the cross member and moving the rack forward. Obviously now would be the time to do it. A few people have had trouble with the spacers coming loose over time, myself not included. Just a thought.

Did you mod the knuckles?

And then just do the test in the firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4.

They will sit 23mm further out than stock wheels. That is going from a 16x7+40 to a 18x8+30.

Did you bed the new pads in?

You'll be fine. Just take your time and do one side at a time, so if you get lost you can refer to how it should be on the other side. And take note of the shoe arrangement with the leading shoe towards the front of the car and the trailing towards the rear. This will become clear on inspection. Just make sure you have a good set of side/diagonal cutters and needle and flat nose pliers. Also scuff the inside of the drum up with some emery/sandpaper. Good luck.

Ignition timing should be 15 degrees btdc anyway, and 20 degrees for auto.

I had swapped out the ignition loom/coil pack harness with a know working item but it now has a brand new nissan one fitted.

Not as yet. The spark on the other cylinders was the same. I haven't got around to pulling the lifters out yet as i have been at trade school all week. But i will be doing it this weekend. I was thinking that maybe one or more of the lifters in cylinder #3, while they are pumped up, as they are not noisy, is not bleeding down and has too much oil pressure and is acting like a solid lifter giving zero valve lash? Maybe the problem has been there all along but the higher lift on the after market cams has exacerbated the problem? I'm not too sure, but I know what your saying about the cams. I've spoken to a few people now who have said they have seen new cams ground incorrectly, but you would think if that was the case that the opposing cylinder to #3 (Cyl#4) would be missfiring aswell? Also when i did the leak down test in firing order, (1-5-3-6-2-4) as cylinder #3 came up to TDC it had very little cylinder leakage, proving the valves are closing at the right time.

Nope, it doesn't matter if i just clean the plug or fit a new one it still won't fire, even after the first hit of the key, cylinder 3 hasn't run since putting the car back together and every time i blow the cylinder out it just smells of fuel. Today i fitted a new ignition harness and new bcp6es-11 non resistor type plugs, but to no avail. I've ordered a hks twin spark, but i doubt it's going to do anything. When i was earthing out the plug on the rocker cover the spark was more of an orange coulour than i was expecting, i thought would be a brighter blue/white. However, i'm starting to think that the problem has to be mechanical, as i figure i've coved just about everything electrical. I think i'll pull the lifters out. Does anyone have a rough idea how much new ones are?

Argh Embed fail, here's the link;

Some info on the new hand controllr. http://www.nengun.com/apexi/new-type-power...-hand-commander <object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gnTgxVJNx6g&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gnTgxVJNx6g&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>

I think the best thing would be to ask your tuner, if he suggests adjustable gears you could always try and get one of these http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...-G-t311707.html

Yeah, if i remove the ignition coil harness from cylinder #3 there is no change in engine speed. If i pull the spark plug out it is just wet with fuel. I have tried swapping the coil packs around but it makes no difference. I have also tried about 10 new plugs to no avail. I have 13.8V at the injector plug and i can see the computer switching the earth to the injector with a noid light and can hear the needle lifting off the of the injector with a stethoscope.

From factory the water pump doesn't have a gasket it just has sealant around the pump. However a RB30 water pump gasket from a R31/VL fits. Any Repco, Bursons etc should have this in stock.

Hoping for some help on this one. RB20DET Mods: Apexi Power FC Apexi AVCR HKS 2530 Kai Z32 AFM 3" turbo back exhaust Greddy fmic Bosch 040 Nismo 555cc injectors Tomei Poncams Splitfire coils Brand new bcpr6es-11 plugs This problem started after i installed the following mods, prior to this the car ran fine. I recently installed Nismo 555cc injectors, Tomei poncams and a 2530 turbo. All parts were brand new. New timing belt, fuel filter, all new gaskets etc were installed at the same time. Compression: Compression test results: Dry test Cyl #1: 145psi Cly #2: 145psi Cly #3: 135psi* Cly #4: 145psi Cly #5: 145psi Cly #6: 145psi Compression test results: Wet test Cyl #1: 150psi Cly #2: 150psi Cly #3: 150psi* Cly #4: 150psi Cly #5: 150psi Cly #6: 150psi * I put the 15psi gain down to the fact that the cylinder bore is awash with fuel. Cylinder leakage test results: Cyl #1: 6% Cly #2: 6% Cly #3: 4% Cly #4: 6% Cly #5: 8% Cly #6: 12% Spark: I have battery voltage at the coil harness, and can see the computer switching the earth with a noid light and LED test light. I can lift the coil pack up while its running and here a very auidable crack, crack, crack. I can earth out the spark plug on the rocker cover and see the spark jump > an inch to the rocker cover. I have changed out the CAS, coilpacks, ignitor, coil harness, (with known working items) computer, (with stock item) and countless new spark plugs. With a timing light on the balancer it reads the same as the ignition timing read out on the power fc hand controller. Fuel I have scaled the new injectors size and latency in the power fc and rechecked my calculations numerous times. I have injector pulse and can see the computer switching the earth with a noid light and LED test light. I have the scaled voltage at the injector plug and can hear the injectors tick, tick, tick with a stethoscope. I have swapped out the injector from Cyl #2 which was running fine, with Cyl#3 which is missing, with the same result. Cams/Lifters After running the cams in i pulled the rocker covers off and the wear on the new lobes is perfect. Opposing cylinders are rocking with the other on compression. I can turn the lifters with the lobes pointed towards the rockers covers, so they are free. The lifters are not noisey and i have taken the car for several drives and got it hot. Other There are no vacuum leaks. I can pull a vacuum line of and spray accelerant in the plenum and cyl # 3 doesn't pick up. I have had a boreoscope down the cylinder bore and it looks fine and even down the No#3 intake runner to make sure there are no foreign objects in there blocking airflow. To Do About the only thing left to do that i can think of is to pull the fuel rail off with the injectors still in and turn the CAS over by hand and ensure that the spray patterns are ok and that the injector is infact firing. Try some non resistor type plugs, as they make the coilpacks work harder. As you can see i'm starting to go around in circles, so any help/suggestions/ideas are welcome as it may be something very simple that i have overlooked. Thanks, Tim.

1:1

Bringing this thread back. I've just pulled my stock injectors out of my RB20 and i have a set of pink Nismo 555cc injectors to put in (p/n 16600-RR420) but the plug on the injectors are different. Being a Sunday, no where is open to buy new plugs, so i wanted to know if anybody here actually has just filed the locator pin on the injectors or modifyed the plug to fit?

330mm is the smallest legal size in Vic.

What about Poncams with cam gears? Is it possible to get, to a degree, stock like response with the benefits of aftermarket cams?

There are some cases of turbo 32's having two pot fronts and single rears. But I think you will find that most turbo 32's are in fact type m models and thus have the 4 pot front and twin pot rear calipers.