White GTS-T

Thanks for sharing. Apologies if I missed it, but what line of work did you say you were in, if you don't mind me asking?

https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQCIZ1_0stLdp8lGjusR0GKDgEjLpp7fFZxYa71rubxXnP6S3LmRSVQbh9E When it has been almost two years and you still haven't driven your car.

On any motor that spins clockwise, yes there are some that don't, the timing belt should be fitted in an anticlockwise direction, starting at the crankshaft. This leaves all the slack on the belt at the tensioner, where you need it. Then, always be sure to turn the crankshaft two revolutions and recheck the timing marks and belt tension. Please note though, that the marks on the actual belt won't line up again after turning the motor over. This is due to the relationship of teeth on the cam and crank gears aw they are a hunting gear set. Just be sure that the camshaft and crankshaft makes line up and you're good to go.

Chase kit for reference.

Just be aware that a tap will 'cut' a new thread, whereas a thread chaser will 'clean' the thread.

Interesting. I just gave my hubs a lick of black paint. Turned out alright.

This has been sold. Thanks tor reading.

Just to add, you will also need the grill and headlights with provisions for the grill mounts. Most, R32 headlights have these already, but not all. What's the matter Josh, it's too quick, so you need to add some weight?

Cheers. Yeah, it is. I gave him a drive of it recently and he couldn't wipe the smile off his face. Them nostalgic feels, haha.

I'll just leave this here. http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/3916/Radium-Engineering-Fuel-Safe-Deliver-Ultimate-Fuel-Cell-and-Surge-Tank-Combo.aspx http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/3914/PageID/9340/Project-Lexus-SC300-Road-Racer-Part-1--Intro-and-Fuel-Cell.aspx

Nothing much to report. I did however get around to replacing all the low pressure P/S hoses, including the feed hose from the reservoir to the pump. The 'Nissan' tax on this was a bit steep. Having free access to all sorts oils etc is always nice. I think if/when the motor comes out I'll replace the lines with braided hose and AN fittings. Speaking of which, I started plumbing up the catch cans. I moved the PCV valve to the back of the plenum to try and make the install a bit neater. I just need to tidy it up with a few more billet clamps. But I'm waiting for the fabricator at work to get back from holidays so he can moddify my intake pipe and weld in an AN bung to plumb the secondary catch can in. Once that's done, I'll move on to mounting the new intercooler and reworking the cooler piping. In preparation of this, I bought some new silicon joiners.

First, ensure that the breathers from the rocker covers to the catch can are both seperate. T-ing these lines effectively halves the breathing capacity. Secondly, introduce some vacuum into the system. Either via the pcv valve or pre-turbo but preferably both. Vacuum in the crankcase is a good thing. Lastly, if that doesn't work, hide under some coats and hope that somehow, everything will work out.

The temperature sensor in the bottom of the radiator is only used to switch on the condenser/overheat fan that comes in when your coolant temp is at 94 degrees. There are two other sensors located on the plenum/water inlet. One is a single wire coolant temp sender, which is used for the temperature gauge. And the other is a two wire coolant temperature sensor, used by the ECU. What you need to do is isolate the problem. When it's hot and cranks but doesn't fire, does it have spark, injector pulse, fuel pressure? If you can determine these you will be able to pinpoint the problem. Eg Fuel pump, crang angle sensor, ECU etc. Good luck.

Hi Justin, thanks for asking, but unfortunately there hasn't been. The car has sat idle for the last four months, and I've had no drive to work on it. Before I parked it up, I did manage to get a few things done however. I fitted a new 24mm X-heavy duty rear swaybar. Previously I had a 22mm bar. Since I had to remove the exhaust to fit the new sway bar, I fitted some new exhaust hangers. The rear end is now complete, as far as i'm concerned. I also decided to change up the catch can/breather setup. I'm now going to run a primary and then a secondary can, while ultimately plumbing them into the sump. In preparation for this I had the primary catch can modified. And ordered the associated plumbing required. I replaced the Ikeya Formula LCA kit, and while extending the LCA to fill out the GT-R guards, noticed this. It's a bit tricky to pick up in the photo, but the original offset rack spacer, (right) was bent. I've since changed to the GKtech design (left) The reason there hasn't been any progress since, is that I just can't decide what I want to do with the car. Whether to respray it and get it looking nice etc or just thrash it as is. Having said that, I did just recently order some ridiculous parts on a whim, which I think will force my hand. Hopefully, more updates to come soon.

30,000km a year, is a lot of fuel, how often is your mechanic replacing the fuel filter? I would hope at least every twelve months, but If it has been an oversight, it could potentially explain the problem. And If neglected enough it may have had a knock on effect with your injectors. It would also reduce fuel pressure/flow.

If the piston and bore aren't scored, it's a relatively straight forward process. Just take note of the orientation of the seal, one side has a leading edge (this will become apparent upon removal). Just take your time and get yourself a tube of rubber grease, a can of brake cleaner and some o-ring pick/tools will help. If the piston/bore has some light scoring, a light buff with some wet and dry (say 2000 grit) will do the job. Remember, you're not trying to remove material just prepare the surface for the new seal. Good luck.

Cheers, but it was my understanding that you don't have to run a HANS specific harness, and that 3" shoulder belts are perfectly fine. http://hansdevice.com/faq.html http://english.schroth.com/racing/faq.php Managed to quickly snap a few more photos today.

No worries. I'll get some better photos up ASAP.

My apologies. I thought I uploaded photos of the lap belts. I'm away from the car at the moment, so i'll upload some more photos tomorrow. However, hopefully these suffice for now. On the lap belts, the length between the shackle and the adjuster is fixed. The length between the adjuster and the buckle is adjustable. This makes for a really neat install. They are a pull type adjustment.

Yes, they are in interference engine.

If you are asking if you need to hold/lock the cams while removing/changing the belt, the answer is no. While some twin cam engines do require this, RB's do not. The reason being, that the cams aren't rocking/under tension at TDC. I.E. They (the cams) won't try and rotate on you when you release the belt tension.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84208-wheel-sizes-offsets-for-skylines/

What size and offset are we talking here? We need to know tyre size, ride height, wheel alignment etc. Have you read through the offset thread?

^ Agreed. Alternatively, if you insisted on running a cosmetic/mls gasket, you could use the Permaseal type.