White GTS-T

Jarrod, were you there on the day taking photos?

Russman: You are right, but personally the car just felt too oversteery in the morning. Having said that though, it probably had more to do with the lack of front end grip in the wet, but because i didn't get to try the allignment in the dry it's a bit hard to say, next track day i'll try something in between and see how that goes. Dreadr31: I got mine from here; http://www.japaneseimportspares.com.au/par...tegoriesbrakes/

After having too much grip at the last practice day I decided to back the rear toe off to zero, as apposed to 2mm toe in (total) but it just made the car far too oversteery and really I needed all the grip I could get in the wet. On the front I started running 4mm toe out (total) and at lunchtime had it backed off to 2mm toe out (total) on the front and 2mm toe in (total) at the rear. I don't think the extra toe out on the front was such a bad thing but I just wanted to run a setup that I was familiar with. I think next track day I will run 4mm toe out up front and 2mm toe in at the rear.

It's a shame about what happened Russman but its good to hear the damage isn't too extensive. I really struggled in the morning. After having a handbrake that only ever locked up one wheel I decided to get all new genuine cables and a pair of project mu's brake shoes, and now the handbrake works too well, it's ridicules! Whenever I went to use it, before I knew it, I was backwards, especially in the wet. After spinning so much in the morning it really shot my confidence, and I wasn't game to go in the tandem line, which I think made it worse because after having to wait 10-15mins the tyres were stone cold. I ran a really aggressive alignment on the day and it felt like I was really fighting the car all morning, but after driving in to Benella at lunchtime and getting an alignment the car felt so much more predictable, not to mention having massive amounts of front grip in the expression sessions. I just need to practice for the practice day. Thanks to Vicdrift and all of the volunteers who helped make the day possible.

Nope. But after your group buy fell through i had to look at alternataves. The 33 lca's were nearly three quarters cheaper than any of the upper arms available. Seeing as not many people were running them i thought i would give it a shot, and seat of the pants review, they provide more gains than drawbacks. I still have my 32 lca's and if i ever do find some decent front uppers, such as the noltecs, i'll put the 32 lca's back on.

Yeah extremely lucky. One of the blades was curled over and pressed hard up against the shroud, because of the bigger radiator the clearance was minimal to begin with, but i had to cut that particular blade just to get the fan off. The only sign that anything was wrong was that at the end of the day the alternator light was coming on.

Russ what are your current alignment specs, and what are you hoping to achieve? The Noltec front upper arms would be the way to go, but again they are pretty pricey and quite hard to get. I ended up going with the 33 lca's, many people would argue that that is the wrong way to go about it, but i can only give positive feed back, for the price they are a good cheap upgrade. They gave me -2.5 degrees of camber up front. I haven't heard a lot about the Kazama stuff but there seems to be a few people running them, hopefully they can provide some feed back. My guess is that they would be better quality than some of the other brands getting around but not quite as good as the high end Japanese stuff.

I figured out why my car was so down on power and why the temps were so high last track day. The clutch fan was stuck, (not stuck on) but physically stuck on the radiator shroud and not turning at all! It was very lucky I didn't do a head gasket or that the fan didn't go through the koyo rad. Anyway this time around I have 180 at the wheels, I just hope the stock turbo holds up for the day, might take a spare one just in case

Yep, there the ones i was just talking about. There's a link to some on this page; http://www.japaneseimportspares.com.au/par...riesalignment/1

Hey Russell, I got my cusco castor rods and cusco rear camber arms on a trip to Adelaide from Japanese Import Spares. I had just planed on buying s/h items but after inspecting all the s/h stock they had I was a bit apprehensive, and I was kind of in the mind set of do it once do it right, so I ended up getting new ones. Although when I got my arms they were a lot cheaper then, than the price they have listed now. But I guess if you’re ever over that way they do a better price for cash. http://www.japaneseimportspares.com.au/par...riesalignment/2

If you take the negative camber out of the equation for a second wouldn't excessive toe in tend to wear the outsides, and excessive toe out tend to wear the insides? Or do i have it the arse way around?

All the symptoms your describe point to the air flow meter, except that fact that it runs fine in 1st gear, that is a little puzzling. Usually when the computer isn't getting the air flow meter signal, it will start and idle but the revs will hunt up and down and black smoke, un-burnt fuel, will pour out the exhaust. Because the computer doesn't know how much air it’s taking in, it goes into a default fuel map and absolutely pours the fuel in, and to be safe the engine won’t rev past 2500rpm. Firstly make sure the air flow meter is plugged in. It's located in the intake piping that goes to the turbo, just after the air box or pod filter if you have one. If it is plugged in, and your game, you could try to disassemble it. Sometimes there can be a dry solder on one of the pins. Failing that you could try to get your car on a 'scan tool' at your local mechanics or auto elec. But the best option would be to try and get yourself a second hand airflow meter, that is the same colour and from the same model engine as yours, off of these forums for around $50-$100 and see how that goes. The air flow meter looks like this. http://www.rhdjapan.com/images/product/117...ormal/Image.jpg Hope that helps.

Haha. That's why i asked if they have done that type of work before. Maybe they think you have to drop the whole rear subframe?

If they're supplying it, as well as fitting it, I’m assuming they've done that type of work before? It does seem a bit excessive though, even if they charge $100 p/h, but they may just be over quoting. It might pay just to ring around and get a quote elsewhere to compare.

I had a similar problem, but I just put it down to having a 5 puk and a 2-way. But on the weekend I changed my clutch fluid, and it has made a significant difference. Before i changed the fluid the clutch seemed to be either 'in' or 'out', but now the pedal feel is a lot more gradual and has made taking off a lot smoother. I'd be giving this a try first and see if it helps.

AFM. The ECU isn't getting an AFM signal, thus it will go into limp-home-mode and will not rev above 2500rpm.

If the idle drops when you disconnect the AFM then the ECU must be getting the AFM signal, which is good. If the car is running on six cylinders then there's probably no point in testing the coil packs. Get the exhaust sorted, get the boost gauge sorted and go from there. Hopefully when you drop the cat the rear turbine wheel doesnt drop out. Also try a new set of plugs and see if it starts easier.

There's a lot to decipher there. First of all check the basics. It could well be that the new plugs are already fouled which is why it is hard to start which could indicate a problem elsewhere. I would be disconnecting the battery negative terminal and then pulling the ECU apart to check for water damage, carbon build up, blown capacitors etc. Check the fuel pressure and flow rate with and without the vac line to the reg, also your fuel filter. Check the voltage supply to the fuel pump, i know there is something funny with the VL's in that the power supply to the fuel pump doesn't come from the ECU but from a separate relay, where as with the 32 it comes from the ECU. So something could be up there. I highly doubt the wiring for the consult port has been done but if it has and you can get it on a scan tool that could eliminate a lot of things. The wirring noise could be air getting past the rear turbine wheel, that’s if its there. Get yourself a mechanical boost gauge to see if it actually does make positive manifold pressure before you pull the exhaust off. Other than that check for vacuum leaks, check all the cooler pipes, test the primary and secondary resistance of the coils, test the airflow meter resistance, check the tps voltage at closed and wide open throttle etc. It could be many things really...the cat could be collapsed...Here's just a few things to check.

I'm not sure about the ruling in SA, but in Vic it must be legible when viewed from a 45-degree angle from either side of the car.

Last time i was at my tuners he said he had a pretty worked 34 gtr on the dyno. It was making ok power but not what everyone expected with the setup it had (I don't know details of setup). He said it wasn't missing/hesitating or anything but they decided to throw a set of split fires in as well as a set of HKS plugs. Straight away the car made 100kw more. He said the same thing as R31Nismoid, that the late model coil setup on 33's and 34's are just shit and he recommended his customers with late model skylines to change them, or keep this in mind, even before the car goes into the workshop. Anyway, my 2c.

As above: Acceptable Licenses are: AASA or Cams L2NS - No license means no going on the track! On the day purchase of AASA license: AASA license $50 (Can be purchased at the Winton office on the morning of the drift day. This needs to be done before you come into the scrutineering bay to pay and have your car scrutineered as entries will not be accepted without proof of license or receipt of payment from Winton) Before you go through scrutineering, got to the office on the day, pay your $50 and your done. The license lasts 12 months. If you want to get a cams license you can sign up through SAU Victoria. Details can be found here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sk...or-t220207.html

I used an "extra long 0' offset spanner". Something along the lines of what's in this small pic, if you can make it out. Any place that can get decent tools should be able to get you a set. From memory, i got my set of sidchrome ones from my local repco for about $160. Hope this helps. http://www.sealey.co.uk/images/products/Th...ails/AK6311.jpg

Sounds good. Can you elaborate a bit more on the 'new setup'? Gonna be starting out on the big track?

True. But being on apprentice wages i didn't budget the extra funds so close to Winton. Hopefully i'll be able to work something out and if i am able to go, hopefully the fc will help overcome the excessive grip issues i was having last time.

If entering, in what car abu? Hopefully i'll have enough money to enter. After buying a buying a power fc on the weekend and getting it tuned today, i'm a little low on funds.