White GTS-T

The longer duration on the 260's will move the torque band further up the rev range. For your application, you want the 252's.

The pistons in the caliper are seizing.

If you are using all RB 20 gear as in computer, loom, and all sensors etc. I would look at a faulty coolant temp sensor.

Your have broken your speedo cable and thats why your power steering is intermittent. The Hicas computer requires a speed input to function correctly. It is a common problem with R32's. Go to Nissan and get yourself a new speedo cable. Make sure you specify whether your car is auto or manual when ordering. They are about $80 new.

The thing is to eliminate bumpsteer the LCA and the tie rod have to be parrallel to each other. So only getting the RCA in the LCA isn't really going to do much, to make the most of it you need to get a RCA tie rod end aswell to keep the arms parrallel. I thought about getting them for a while but they are pretty pricey. Having said that though, i think you should buy them and then tell us if they are worth it or not

If you really want to give it a go i listed all the differences here > http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb....html&st=40

How low is your car, front and rear (centre of the wheel to the guard) ?

Sounds like your on the right track with vacuum and fuel, but i would also check the TPS and the AFM's.

You could get the Moonface racing ones from Japanese Import Spares, they have a built in Roll Centre Adjuster, but they are a bit pricey. http://www.japaneseimportspares.com.au/par...oriesalignment/

It sounds like you've already done your research, so i'm probably not telling you anything you don't know but as long as its not synthetic based oil you should be right. http://www.kaazusa.com/techhelp2.html.

R32 gtst wheels? If so i have 4 with roadworthy tyres. Rims have been painted black with silver lip. Where are you located? PM me if your keen

I have a set of r32 gtst front lca's in good condition but i am in Vic. Pm me if your keen.

Wow, already, your certainly not wasting any time. I havn't even taken my car number off yet.

I just put generic lsd oil in for the run in, dumped it then put the kazz stuff in. Just remember the most important part of running the diff/clutch packs in is to 'clutch in' before turning full lock at the start off each end of the figure 8. Alot of people just go out and do figure 8's with out clutching in which is one of the worst things you could do for the lsd. Then they wonder why its overly noisy But at the end of the day its up to you, if spending the extra $100 on another bottle of Nismo oil is going to give you piece of mind that your $1500 odd lsd is going to be looked after then it might be worth it.

I remember sitting in the start line with my oil and water temp both at 100 and saying to myself ok just grip this lap to let the car cool down...and as soon as i got to the first corner i slide the whole back section haha

Shit! Man you have to be so quick! Please let me know if sale falls through .

I thought the tps voltage at idle should be .45v?

Since my last track day when i was having a bit of trouble with my temps I thought I would sought them out by doing it once and doing it properly sort of thing. So I got koyo rad, a GTR bonnet and grill, plus i spaced it at the back, and my water was still seeing 110! I have a hks oil cooler setup as well and my oil was reaching 110 also. I think i have to make up some proper ducting for the oil cooler and maybe run some thicker oil, was running 5w-40 and sort something out with my water temps. The factory fan on front of the condenser had a blown fuse so that wasn't coming in (comes in at 90) which wouldn't of helped but there's definitely some else going on there...

Yeah I know what you mean, I had new 235's, on my 9" rims, and after entering the esses in 3rd at about 110 and holding it flat I just couldn't carry the drift to the next transition, it would just bog down and grip up. I would love to make the trip up. But I have a mates wedding on Saturday. I've never been to a DECA event before but it’s definitely something that I would love to get into. Being on apprentice wages though, I’m a bit light on in the pocket after Winton, It's almost good that they're two months apart so I can save up for the next one On a side not, how did your temps go on the day? I only got to have a quick look at your car and from what I remember you were running a gtr cooler, no condenser, and what looked to be a factory Nissan radiator? Whether or not it was a rb26 item or similar I can't remember.

It was an awesome day. Russman your car has some serious speed, what kind of turbo setup do you have? I was having a few grip issues, as in too much of it, with brand new federals on a stinking hot day with a stock 20. Haha. R32Big Boy PM sent.

I have a little bit of bump steer in the front end but thats only because of the rack end spacers and because the car is too low. If anything the 33 LCA's made it better. If a was serious about fixing it, i would look at getting some ball joints and tie rod ends with built in roll centre adaptors like these http://www.japaneseimportspares.com.au/par...footworkothers/ ...or just raise the ride hight and remove the steering lock spacers...

Should be a good day. Many other SAU's heading over?

If you wanted to retain your AFM a better way to go about it would be to get a change over item through Injectronics, http://www.injectronics.com.au/. They send you a new AFM and if it fixes the problem you send your old one back to them. If it doesn't fix the problem you send the new AFM back. New units come with a 24 month warrenty and cost about $300.

I have the R33 LCA's with stock upper arms. They gave me -2.5 degrees of camber up front. I got the arms second hand from Japanese Import Spares. The ball joints were in excellent condition. I think I paid about $180 for the pair.

Because the wheel base is the same, i don't think there's any difference between the two, but i'm not 100% sure on that. Is your car already turbo? I think all you should need is a turbo manual tail shaft. I think the only difference is from turbo to n/a and auto to manual but not from 2 door to 4 door, but i could be wrong. Having said that, personally, i would still make sure i had a 2 door and a 4 door tail shaft when it came time to do the conversion. Some one else may be able to provide some more insight.