White GTS-T

A/C Delco 6mm http://www.acdelco.com.au/wipers.html We use them on all our customer cars at our shop. I think we sell them for $4.50 + each. Use the search on that site to find your local stockist.

My genuine Nissan o2 sensor says 'NGK 205 Japan' and has a red, white and black plug. I'm not sure if the wiring for the o2 sensor is the same for the GTR and GTS-T but i do know that the GTR uses Zirconia o2 sensors and the GTS-T does not. The o2 sensor voltage should be between 0.00 and 1.00v. It should not exceed 1.00v. I would think that the ECU is running RnR (more so than normal) because it's not getting the correct 02 sensor signal/input. Your best bet would be to get a genuine replacement from Nissan.

It's normal. The car will run R n' R when it is cold.

That's weird. Usually when the fan resistor switch fails it will work, but only on the highest and maybe second highest fan setting. I've never seen one that has failed completely.

Did the car use to run/start fine now it isn't? Or you only just put the Microtech in and it wont start? One of my mates bought a brand new Microtech and it would only run on 5 cylinders, then not at all. He took it to the tuners for them to sort out. Turns out Microtech put the wrong firing order into it from the factory. It took about 1 month for Microtech to finally admit it and tell the tuner how to change/re-configure the firing order. Now theoretically he can get any Microtech to run on any car SR on RB for e.g.

Get yourself an S13 manual cross member and put the R32 gearbox rubber mount on to the S13 cross member. It will bolt straight up!

The clicking sound is either the clutch on the compressor or a relay. When you disconnected/reconnected the battery you may have accidentally earthed it out our caused an intermittent voltage spike. If its not blowing any air at all it will be the fuse for the heater fan/blower motor assembly. Check all the fuses in the engine bay and in the fuse box located in the dash under the steering wheel. The easiest way to test them is with a test light. Just remember to test both points on the fuse for power. If only one point lights up the fuse is blown. Also be sure to replace the fuse with the manufacturer specified amperage. Hope this helps.

What is everyone's opinion of running R33 LCA's up front? I'm running them and have -2.5 degrees camber with +6.5 degrees castor.

Before you get it tuned, get a proper de-cat pipe. It's best to keep it 3" all the way through and get the most out of the exhaust system. With the current set up the gasses will enter the cat chamber and expand only to be reduced again when exiting the cat chamber ruining your exhaust velocity/flow.

The part your refering to is the pressure switch. Any decent fridgey will be able to supply you with one as well as a new receiver/drier to go with your re-gas.

I got a pair of second hand R33 LCA's from JIS for around $190 and the ball joints were in excellent condition. They also sell aftermarket items but they are a bit pricey. http://www.japaneseimportspares.com.au/par...narmsandmounts/ Good luck.

Hmm i reckon it's gonna be a bit of a stretch to fit them. (no pun intended) Currently i have 17 x 8 + 15 up front with a 215/45/17 and 17 x 9 + 21 at the rear with a 235/45/17. With the 17 x 9 + 21 on the front i would have 19mm less inner clearence and it would extend an extra 7mm. Mine sits pretty nice at the front with -3 camber thanks to the R33 LCA's and theres no scrubbing even with the lock spacers. I reckon with a 7mm slip on spacer the front would sit perfect. So with the 17 x 9 +21 i think it would be a good fit (inner clearence may be a bit of an issue?) but i would think you would have to run a 214/45/17 up front for more clearence. The rears sit pretty nice with -1 degree of camber. I have moded my guards a little, but that was only to fit the wheels when i first got them as the wheels came with a 50 profile tyre on the 17" rims. I realise this post is a bit pointless without any pics, so i'll try to get around to taking some and might even put the rears on the front just for fun. To give you a bit of an idea, compared to stock gts-t wheels, you wil have 14mm less inner clearance and the wheel will extend out an extra 50mm.

Bump.

Can't edit post. After reading this thread the 26 cams seem like a headache http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/RB...l=gtr+cams+rb20

Tail shaft center bearing/unis?

Does anyone know the lift and duration of the DE cams? I'm currently looking at upgrading my cams but was thinking of going RB26 cams. The RB20DE has ???deg - ???mm lift intake & ???deg - ???mm lift exhaust The RB20DET has 240deg - 7.8mm lift intake & 240deg - 7.8mm lift exhaust The RB26DETT has 240deg - 8.5mm lift intake & 236deg - 8.2mm lift exhaust

Any news on the group buy?

Just make sure you 'reverse flush' the system. i.e. flush it in the opposite direction the water normally flows. And make sure you reverse flush the radiator, block and heater core separately to avoid cross contamination. Personally i think a flush gun is a must.

To eliminate the AFM just get it onto a scan tool. Injectronics do change over AFM's for around the price of a new Z32 item. You make your payment and they will send you a new one and if that fixes the problem you send your old one back. If not you get your money back. They also have good warranty/guarantee. http://www.injectronics.com.au/

The best way is to have it properly looked at by a radiator place. They will pull the end tanks off, flow test it etc. The cheap way is to get a flush gun and reverse flush the sucker. i.e In the through the bottom hose out through the top hose.

Have had two cars recently in the workshop, both presenting with the same aforementioned problem. Both, I'm sorry to inform you, had to have new/recod transmissions fitted. Not going into/staying in overdrive. When the converter starts to slip it heats the trans fluid massively and the trans fails.If you smell the trans fluid on the dipstick it will smell burnt regardless of colour. Unfortunately servicing the auto wont accomplish anything. I drove along with the scan tool displaying current data and manually put it in and out of overdrive and nothing happened. The first thing i would be doing is getting the car onto a scan tool and go from there. Let us know how you go, good luck.

Is this a custom or aftermarket cage, is it cams approved, what thickness? etc etc

Price?

Just loosen the fuel filler cap. The pssshhhh you will hear is the pressure from the fuel system being released.

Is this a non-sunroof cage?