White GTS-T

Do you have injector pulse?

Imagine being in that thing from 5-7k. It would melt your face off!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...tel-t87521.html

Almost sounds like it's in limp-home mode because its not getting the correct AFM signal. Find yourself a RB20DET one and see how that goes. Also replace the fuel filter and plugs if you haven't already.

Thanks for the update Gary. When would payment be easiest for you, now, or closer to November?

PM sent.

Only two ways i know of fixing it are a new speedo cable and the tomei hicas lock kit and in your case the later is useless.

+1 for new cable. It's worth forking out the $80 by the time you pull out and 'repair' the old one, only to have to pull it out again in a short time.

CRC + exhaust pit/hoist = Done

Basically: 1-Way: Diff is only locked on acceleration. 1.5-Way: Diff is locked on acceleration and half locked on deceleration. 2-Way: Diff is locked on acceleration and locked on deceleration. If your using it for drifting, get a two way. When it comes to brands, at the end of the day they all do the same thing. The first time i installed a two way was in my own car, but i had a mate to help who had done plenty before. It took about 3-4 hours to do. I'd say it would be a bit difficult if you have not done one before, but if your a bit mechanically minded you should be able to nut it out.

I use a Kazz 2-way, got it for $900, but i use it for drifting. Came with new bearings seals etc. Redline oil helped the syncro's in my gearbox as well. But if it is the bearings in the diff, because the amount of pre-load they have, once there gone there gone. I would suggest to get an aftermarket lsd, but i would also suggest listening to DiRTgarage as i would say he knows his stuff when it comes to dragging gtr's.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...no-t103095.html

Although I've seen a few track days mine is a daily driver as well and i told Nissan the same thing when i dropped my car off there. But i had a lot of work done in one stint. Rear main seal, clutch, new slave, rebuilt master cylinder, timing belt, rocker cover gaskets etc. But from memory i still had the car back with in a day or so. One thing i did notice on the invoice though was that they had to sublet the overhaul of the master cylinder. But I'm not sure where they sent it to be done? A hydraulics place or...? Might be worth ringing a few places around and cutting out the middle man.

+1. Although I'm more inclined towards the 6cm rear housing, just after a responsive 200rwkw. But I'm also interested to know what is included in the 8cm turbo kit? i.e. manifold, ext gate etc?

I had my master cylinder overhauled by Nissan for $50. Have done 25,000km since, including 4 drift days at Winton, with no problems.

What did you pay for it bubba? I just got a kazz in mine, $900 delivered. Came with bearings seals and new gasket. Were the Nismo half shafts any thicker?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...40&start=40 Check page 3 of that thread, should have what you are looking for.

Are we talking with the 8.0cm2 Exhaust Housing or the 6.0cm2?

What do you do in regards to Pin # 36-Intake Air Temp Sensor?

Time for a two way

Sounds like the bearings in the diff have let go. For the price of new bearings you might aswell get an aftermarket lsd that comes with new bearings and seals etc.

There's no real way of telling if the diff is a two way when it is in the housing. You have to pull it apart. But you can tell if its an lsd or not. You shouldn't be able to turn the half shafts independently of each other.

I thought when you bought the Nismo diff you got new half shafts with it?

Can't edit post. But in relation to the topic it sounds like a fuel miss not a spark miss. Get a new fuel filter from Nissan P/No. # 16400-53J10 and check your fuel pressure with and without the vacuume line going to the fuel pressure regulator.

paulr33 looked at doing it for a while, but it turned out that it wasn't really worth his time financially. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...rb-t161511.html I've looked into it a little bit. Your looking at $1000 for a new PFC from Nengun for RB26 (On special for $900 delivered at the moment) http://www.nengun.com/apexi/power-fc-hand-controller $150 odd for the harness from boomslang http://www.boomslang.us/extension.htm Plus labor costs, if any, for someone to wire it up. I took a print out of the RB20DET and RB26DETT ECU pinout diagrams to my local auto electrician and he said that it shouldn't be too much trouble. Listed below are the following differences between the ecu's. RB20 RB26 ECU pinout diagrams taken from the Nissan RB workshop manual RB20DET Pin # 5 -Engine A/T Control Input Signal (BT1) Pin # 6 -Blank Pin # 14-Engine A/T Control Input Signal (BT2) Pin # 15-Engine A/T Control Input Signal (BT3) Pin # 25 -Blank Pin # 34-Blank Pin # 35-Blank Pin # 104 -Fuel Pump Terminal Volt Control Output (FPCM ) Pin # 106 -Blank Pin # 112-Injector No.# 4 Pin # 114- Injector No.# 6 Pin # 115- Exhaust Gas Sensor (Ground) RB26DETT Pin # 5 -Blank Pin # 6 -Sub Electrical Fan Relay (engine temp SW) Pin # 14-Blank Pin # 15-Blank Pin # 25 -Wastegate valve control solenoid valve Pin # 34-Air Flow Meter Ground Pin # 35-Air Flow Meter Intake Air Signal (Front) Pin # 36-Intake Air Temp Sensor Pin # 55-Exhaust Gas Sensor (rear) Pin # 104 -Fuel Pump Terminal Volt Control Output (FPCM 1) Pin # 106 -Fuel Pump Terminal Volt Control Output (FPCM 2) Pin # 112- Injector No.# 6 Pin # 114-Injector No.# 4 Pin # 115-Blank Although i have to say i didn't know Uras was converting them for $1800 installed. Do you convert the L-Jetro afm version as well Uras?