White GTS-T

20's run 1.1mm gap standard. The reason people gap the plugs down is usually because of increased boost. A lot of people are running coppers gapped to .8mm. Personally I'm running the factory platinums gapped to 1.1mm at .85bar without any problems, but i do have splitfire coilpacks. It's best to run the biggest gap that you can.

So does the pfc come with the modified loom?

Just to clarify, has the actual computer been modified at all, or have all the modifications been made to your wiring loom?

Also, something to take into account. I've noticed that the factory tachometer needle can 'float'. After installing my S-AFC (with digital rpm readout and peak hold) i noticed that the tacho needle would read higher than the car was actually revving. Say the tacho was reading 7500rpm the S-AFC would record a peak of say 6800rpm. So you may not be revving the car out as much as you think.

+1. Still interested.

Taken from the Nissan workshop manual Upload failed +12V Ignition - Pin # 59. Ground Chassis 0V - Pin #50,60. Oxygen Sensor signal - Pin # 29 Airflow Meter signal - Pin # 27 I'm guessing you need to wire in a SAF-C and possibly an Apexi TT? If so you may also need: Throttle signal - Pin # 38 Knocking signal 1 - Pin #23 Knocking signal 2 - Pin #24 RPM - Pin # 7 Good luck

I have a re-tune computer in my 32 and my rev limiter is at 8000rpm I was thinking, instead of getting a Bee-R, for the $350 odd that it costs i might as well just get an after market ecu. I also heard that they can kill the factory ceramic wheel turbo pretty quickly and that steel wheel turbos are better suited?

What work did you get done?

Just a few questions to possibly help narrow down the cause. I realise you may not be able to answer some of them if you had a workshop do the work for you, which leads me to my first question. Did you install the clutch yourself or did you get a workshop to do it for you? When the clutch was replaced did you just replace the clutch plate or was it a whole kit with pressure plate and new thrust bearing? Did you have the flywheel machined? What was the condition of the rear main seal, slave and master cylinder? (To give you an idea i replaced my rear main seal, slave cylinder and overhauled my master cylinder with all genuine Nissan items when i replaced my clutch.) Was the correct grade of grease used on all appropiate greasing points? Was the clutch fluid bled whn it was replaced? Some of these might seem a bit obvious but nonetheless they may help eliminate possible causes. Also there is a difference between not having air in the system and have a leaking primary or secondary master cylinder cup seal. The pedal height will remain the same but overall the release mechanism will be effected. This could cause the 'fingers' on the pressure plate to lightly press on the clutch plate facings causing it to slip. Let us know how you go tomorrow.

If you melted your last clutch, then I would say driver education is the problem and that you excessively 'ride' the clutch. Due to the nature of this type of clutch (6 puk) it takes longer for it to stop spinning. Therefore when you are changing gears (with a 6 puk) you need to leave your foot depressed on the clutch longer while your selecting gear compared to a single plate clutch. Also due to this type of clutch it is very important that the 1000km 'bedding in' process is strictly adhered to. Or, there could have been a problem with the installation. The wrong grade of grease could have been used and it may be getting on to the clutch plate facings, or the gearbox may have been allowed to 'hang' during installation. It could really be a number of things, but that fact that you melted your last clutch makes me think it’s the former.

All cars that have been converted to gas have to comply with the ADR's for emissions. The companies that make the kits pay for all the R & D and have the cars emission tested. Then and only then can the kits be sold to the public. That's why all diesel cars converted to LPG are illegal. As none of the kits are ADR approved yet. So the workshops that fitted them are either having to remove them or have the cars emission tested, which is very expensive.

Still interested. Have not heard back from SK yet, but i'm not too worried as long as i can get my 'name' down for a set.

Are they to suit R32 GTS-T? If so very interested!

Hey robbieraver, did you hear back from SK? I haven't received a reply yet, sent two PM's. Wanting to get a set before they all disappear!

No, because it would be illegal. Unless you paid the $10,000+ to get the car emission tested. And it isn't in Australia yet.

Well in that case can you please reply to the PM i sent. I'm chasing a set for a HCR32.

I can't believee there isn't more interest in these? Will they still sell for $399 if you can't get 25 buyers?

PM Sent!

Just do what the V8 supercars drivers do. Give the brake a little pump with your left foot just before your about to brake to ensure you have pedal feel.

Hmm... "Model series can not be found for this Vin No. input model or model series." ?

Does it just happen when you first turn it on? What about if you change your A/C from fresh air to recycled air?

Also if your not going to replace the shoes and they have a smooth/glossy finish give them and the inside of the rotor a good sanding to increase the friction. Project Mu's and Uras both sell very 'bitey' shoes if your more into drifting.

Nice. Size and offsets?

Have you done a compression test and leakdown test? Do you have a catch can? Have you pulled off the cooler piping to check for blow by? And also when you did pull the head off was there water in any of the pistons?