White GTS-T

The clutch on the compressor slipping? Does your A\C get very cool when its on?

There are two types of spoiler for the 32. There's a type A and a type B spoiler. The type B spoiler mounts at the two ends and in the middle. The type A spoiler only mounts at the two ends of the boot. Before you unbolt the spoiler make sure you disconnect the wiring for the high centre brake light. Then once you've unbolted it, it will just lift straight off.

If you left the car for 4 hours on a hot day, then the A/C is going to blow hot air, especially because there is no airflow over the condenser. Most people, when they have their A/C on, almost always have it set to 'fresh air' instead of recycling the air from the cabin. When you have the vents set to fresh air the system has to work harder to cool the hot air flowing over the condenser, whereas if you have the air set to recycle then the system is recycling the already cool air thus making the system work a lot more effectively and efficiently. Your fan speed will also have a bearing on temperatures. The higher the fan speed, the quicker the cycle time, thus, the higher the temps. The lower the fan speed the longer the cycle time, thus, the lower the temps. As for the whining sound, that is your heater fan. It is located directly behind your glove box. It could just be a build up of crap (from having the system set to 'fresh air') and require a clean out, or it could be on its way out. Does the system still blow cool air after a period of driving? And does the whining sound increase as you increase the fan speed?

What does the TPS read at idle, when revving and WOT?

I have the exact same problem with my 32, i've had it for about 12 months but i'm just too lazy to fix it! Gets annoying at times though. Might pull the trims off and have a look.

Whether of not i will be there is going to be dependent of the weather. I have a HCR32 with stock cooling system and my water temp was reaching 94 today (36 degrees) with a bit of light thrashing. So dont really wanna cook my 20 at the track.

From what you are saying, i would say your car is fine. Positive pressure is usually dependent of throttle percentage and how it is applied. For example, if you ease onto the throttle in second from 1500rpm at 5% throttle to 3500rpm at 15% throttle you can stay in vacuum the entire time. But if you were to go from 1500rpm at 5% throttle to 3500rpm with say 50% throttle you would be making positive pressure (boost). It's very dependent of the way you drive, hope that helps.

Thankyou for the update, at least now i know where i'm at. I wasn't aware of the situation because the last time you replied to one of my PM's was Feburary 11th.

Ok, i'll admit i had a hidden agenda to keep this thread going, to get some exposure to my situation with Sydneykid and to guilt him into giving me my refund that it nearly 3 months overdue. I didn't want to start a thread and have to 'name n' shame' him, but i'm all out of ideas at the moment, and to be honest i dont think i'm ever going to see that money again.

I cant believe you guys are drifting with that much power on that narrow of a tyre?

Gunmetalgrey already has the rear swaybar on the hardest setting and the front on the 3rd softest setting (has 4 mounting points). P.S. Gary, can you please reply to my PM's. I returned my swaybars to you in early December and i STILL havn't recieved my refund, please stop ignoring me!

Hey guys, i'm still in the process of pulling apart a 32 thats in the shop so i will try and help you out with what i did. To get the compressor off you need to get at it from the top and the bottom (obviously the hoist helps here). There are 4 bolts all up holding it on and the two hoses connecting to it, the suction and discharge hoses. There are two bolts on the bottom which to get off you need to remove the Front L/H castor rod, swaybar, and brace/arm (not sure of the name) that connects from the front of the radiator support to just under where the swaybar mounts, the brace that the castor rods is bolted through. To get the two bolts off the top you will need to remove the PS belt. It's very frustrating but after a while you will get it. You will need to take the air filter/airbox off aswell as the intake pipe and maybe the hotpipe and emissions canister just to make things reachable and easier. We have alot of specialist A/C tools in the shop which makes things easier but you should be able to get the job done with a generic tool set. But i was constantly raising and lowering the hoist so it would be pretty tough going without it. The money that you save on the labour side of things would definatly warrent trying it for yourself as the bill would be quite substantial as you have to pull everything apart just to get to the parts you need to. The 32 thats in the shop at the moment has been there since Monday! They're hard to get parts for as none of the parts are listed in our books. Luckily the customer had a half cut sitting at home. But alas i will try and frequent this thread more often so i can try and answer some of your questions. Good luck guys.

Legally you have to have the gas reclaimed by a refrigeration mechanic, as refrigerents contain CFC's that wreck the environment...but its up to you what you do with it Most SP34E gas (as used in 32's) contains a fluroecent die that is used to detect leaks in the system. So if your not going to have it reclaimed be careful when venting the gas as it stains almost everything it touches. Also another thing to remember is that if your skin comes in contact with the gas you can get frost bite, so be careful! If it is the compressor that has failed, there's a fair chance it could just be the front seal, if this is the case it will be very oily around the front of the compressor and most of the gas will have escaped through the front seal. Having said this, even new hoses leak around 6% of gas a year and with 32's getting on these days it doesn't take a geneius to figure out that it could just be low on charge. It cost around $130 to reclaim/vac out/ and top up the charge in the system. Your best bet is to go to your local refrigeration joint (just rock up) and get them to hook it up to some guages, that is the only way of knowing for sure. But at the end of the day if you want to just save yourself time/money and about 12kg of weight simply loosen one of the fittings on the system and the gas will vent out. You can even control the amount of flow by how much you loosen the fitting. You can also remove the condensor, which is located infront of the radiator, which will increase airflow to the radiator significantly, and you can also remove the evaperator and the TX valve which are located under the glovebox/behind the dash but thats a pretty painful job. As is getting the compressor out of there, you will have to remove the front L/H castor rods, swaybar etc just to get to it. Anyway that was a massive rant but i hope that helps. Let us know what you decide to do

Why would he be shifting into neutral if he had an auto? The reason your speedo isn't working and that your steering is heavy is because you have broken your speedo cable. It's a common problem with R32's. You can get a new one from Nissan for around $80. It's relativly easy to install and takes a couple of hours to do. I'm sure theres's a DIY guide on here somewhere. I think the stalling issues your having is a seperate problem all together. The most likely culprit for an NA is going to be the air flow meter so i would check that first.

Could be a multitude of things. As suggested above check all coil packs for cracks in the rubber where the spark could be jumping out. Secondly check the gap on the plugs you are using as sometimes slightly lowering it could result in the misfire going away. Another problem that is common is the air flow meter being stuffed resulting in the car running terrible/ misfiring due to over fueling etc. The best thing you can do is pay the money to get someone who KNOWS what they are looking for to fix it in case it is damaging your engine. I'm sure if you tell us what city you are in someone can recommend a good workshop.

Hi Octane (sponser on here) can supply heat shield/boxes with quick delivery.

I have returned my swaybars over 3 weeks ago but still have not received my refund. I know you say your on holidays but waiting untill the 21st of January to have my money returned is a bit unfair since you should have got the swaybars easily before the 21st December. Please refer to my PM's as i am now out of pocket over the Christmas period.

I have a question, where did you get the PFC from and how much Was it that one that was for sale (on here) with a boost controller kit, for $1400?

I had the same problem with my car (RB20DET) and i innitially thought it was the ignigtor overheating. Like you it only happened when the car was warm. But after putting my car on a scan tool at Nissan and coming up with no errors it was narrowed down to a module that even the scan tool can't pic up, which turned out to be the coilpacks. They were 15+yo after all. So i bought some splitfires off Sliding Performance off this site (link below) and chucked in some new plugs while i was there (old ones had done about 10,000km) and problem solved. The coilpacks were $485 delivered and took around 5 days to arrive. Hope this helps. Good luck. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sp...-E-t188705.html

damn, will be sad to see it go! - luke (damn tim leaving him logged in on my computer)

+1.

I'm having the exact same problem aswell. I went into Nissan today, and apparently a new igniter costs $700! What do you guys think about doing something similar to this? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ti...at-t195167.html I will be hooking my car up to the consult tomorrom at Nissan so hopefully i can shed some more light on the situation. Nissan also said that you can send them away to be bench tested to determine exactly if it is a faulty igniter. Has anyone bothered to go this far? And lastly does anyone know what igniters go for second hand?

Hey SK, i was wondering if you could help me out, I'm after a set of GT-R swaybars to suit my HCR32. I was after: x1 28mm Front Adjustable Swaybar X1 24mm Rear Adjustable Swaybar I have also sent you a PM in regards to the same thing. Thanks, Tim

Here's a question. If you did have one would you modify it, and if so what?

Haha you mean like this? This photo was taken at the Horsham car show in 2005. If you look closely at the boot it looks as if there has been a type b spoiler on there previously, which makes me think its a GTS.