White GTS-T

It's awesome to see so many people into the Final Fantasy Saga, especially FFVII. I just found this (FFVII for PS3) I'm gonna have to by a PS3 just for that game!

Just wanted to add that R32 GT-R's come stock with 225/50/R16's. And that the last pair of tyres i bought were continentals and they are very good. Lot's of grip and very quite.

'The dollar edged up 0.1 percent to 117.30 yen <JPY=> and near this week's peak of 117.61 yen on EBS, which was the highest since mid-August.' Source: http://money.ninemsn.com.au/article.aspx?id=304876 Time to start ordering all those big expensive parts from Japan!

Hey mate, unfortunately thems the brakes. It's a sacrifice we have to make having a white skyline with an aftermarket exhaust. However after installing an Apexi S-AFCII and getting a tune i did notice a reduction in the amount of fuel over the rear bar. Remember RB's run rich from the factory. Hope that helps.

BNR32 89.8〜95.1 RB26DETT Core type Core Location oil filter location Thermostat Price Code NS1010G R/Inner fender Side of R/Strut In Block ¥78,000 12024412 　 NS1010G F/Radiator Side of R/Strut In Block ¥78,000 12024416 　 NS1310G R/Inner fender Side of R/Strut In Block ¥87,000 12024413 　 NS1610G B/Sub Member Side of R/Strut In Block ¥94,000 12024414 　 NS1612G B/Sub Member Side of R/Strut In Block ¥100,000 12024415 　 Here's the part list for the oil cooler relocation kit for the R32 GT-R. If you have some idea of which kit you have we might be able to figure out which sandwich plate you need to order.

It's called a sandwich plate. After a couple of minutes of searching i found this. http://www.trust-power.com/overseas/products.html# Click on the link that says "Oil Cooler Repair Parts" It should look like this...

I have a 34 V-spec II Nur that has the original turbos high flowed to put out 911KW. It gets a 47.242 on Tsukuba and a 1.02.941 at Midfield. A 1/4 mile time of 8.650. And a top speed of 430.2 KM/h. But I'm having trouble passing the 'Gran Turismo world Championship' in Professional mode. I usually spend my time drifting in the game but lately have gotten into circuit work. Can someone suggest which car to use? I've tried nothing and I'm all out of ideas.

Time was done on GT4. Okay I'll try and explain it a little better. Instead of using the right analogue stick to accelerate and brake, you use the (X) button to accelerate and the square ([]) button to break. Now when your downshifting and breaking using the square button ([]) you 'blip the throttle' (X) with the lower part of your thumb. So when breaking and downshifting you simultaniously tap the throttle, which still slows the car at the same rate but keeps the revs up. Which makes it as if your 'Heel n' Toeing' just like in real life. This allows you to break later and accelerate out of the corner much faster effictivly reducing lap times... Did that explain it or just make it more confusing?

If it's leaking inside the cabin its's your clutch slave cylinder. You can get genuine Nissan ones for around $96 (R32) but if you wanted to do it on the cheaper side you can pick up second hand R31 parts for cheap. When my slave was gone i also had to overhaul the master cylinder aswell. Good Luck

What power are you putting out on 16psi? And when do you get full boost by on the 25?

Wow, very nice set up you have there. I love the Defi's, the nardi wheel and the whole 'red and black' theme you have going. And is that an S13 in the background getting a OneVia conversion?

Hey guys, well thanks for all your replies. After going to the tuners on Tuesday, when my car was originally booked in, the tuner was in Melbourne so i had to book in again for this morning. I reluctantly dropped my car off this morning after asking the tuner if i could hang around to watch. He said there were too many insurance issues with customers in the shop, that plus there's more pressure on the tuner and he's more likely to make mistakes. So that was all good, dropped off the car at 8am and received a call just after 12pm to come and pick it up. Although i must say i was a little confused to see a customer standing right in front of his car while it was doing some runs on the dyno...but thats not really my place to say. But on the other hand i couldn't be more pleased with the results! I don't have a dyno graph to post up which is a bit dissapointing but the tuner said the car is putting out 170rwkw!!! (but i'm not to sure about that...) Car is R32 GTS-T with RB20DET mods include: Greddy VSP-L FMIC, 3" Turbo back exhaust with high flow cat, M's filter with CAI, Walbero fuel pump, Apexi SAFCII and thats it! I know it seems high but he said that even he was surprised how hard it pulled once he leaned it out. He trimmed the fuel maps by -12% on full boost, which just goes to show how rich it was running! He trimmed them even more for cruising, up to -16%, so i should get heaps better fuel economy. The transition from low to high throttle is seamless, the car feels a lot more linear and heaps more responsive. I just can't believe how well its running, it really does pull a lot harder now, its insane. Its completely transformed the car 100%. By far the best mod I've done to the car!

I just wanted to hear peoples thought/opinions on either dropping your car off or staying with it at the tuners. I ask, because recently i booked my car in to get a tune and they were instant that i 'drop it off' and 'pick it up' when its done. If it's only going to be there for a couple of hours why can't i hang around? What's the big deal if i stay and watch while they tune it? Is it because people just generally don't like to be watched while they're working? Is it because people kick up a stink when they're paying a $100 an hour for dyno time and the tuner might be working on something else in between time? Is it an insurance issue with customers in the workshop or is there something I'm missing altogether? It's not that i don't trust the tuners, if i didn't i wouldn't have booked the car in in the first place, I'm just curious to see the whole process and learn how everything's done. I'm interested to hear other peoples experiences, did you stay and watch your car getting tuned?

Hey, I'm not trying to be a smart-arse, but I'm just curious as to who said it and why? I've used Red Line shockproof for 20,000km and haven't had a problem...come to think of it it's time for another oil change...

I just got a 47.242 on Tsukuba with my 34 V-spec II Nur that has the original turbos high flowed to put out 911KW! It gets a 1/4 mile time of 8.918 at Las Vegas time strip on GT4. I will have a go at Midfield Raceway now... Just got a 1.02.941 at Midfield. I've found that if you use [ ] to brake and tap X while down shifting (effectively heel n' toeing) instead of using the analogue joysticks, even though you loose some 'throttle control', you gain about a second per lap on your time.

I agree that it was probably a one off but RB20's don't have VCT...

Who's comparing it to a Power FC? Well the highest reading that i had gotten previously was only 26 and that was when i heel n toed twice in quick succession. Other than that highway and city driving the highest reading was in the mid teens. So i would say that it's pretty accurate.

Yeah thanks, the car is booked in for a tune tomorrow at Geelong Tune-Up Specialists. Hopefully they can sort everything out. As anyone else had there car tuned there? Hopefully after only a week of driving it as is the new cat will be fine. I'll post up a dyno sheet and what not when i get back from the tuners tomorrow.

Yes i just replaced the stock cat with a 3"high flow item myself last week.

No it's not, it's just running that rich

Have you thought about the HKS 25-10 at all? I would have thought the 25-10 is to the RB20 as a 25-30 is to the RB25. A response monster making about 200rwkw on about 1 bar of boost. With full boost by about 3500-3800rpm. Having said that though i do know of a RB20 with a 25-30 making 240rwkw. Don't know what response is like though. I guess the 25-30 would suit your application better but it's just a thought. http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=703

Thanks R31Nismoid that puts my mind to rest a great deal. I'll be able to sleep easy tonight...figuratively speaking...as I'm on my 3rd No-Doz tablet as i have an assignment for uni due this morning... Anyway I'll let you know how i go with the tune. Thanks guys.

I don't know. I know its extremely high and that the ecu reads genuine knock at 120 so who knows how much damage was done at 207? The road was flat but rather bumpy so that could have been the cause, a freak reading perhaps, don't know about a stone but quite possible. I guess i'll find out more when i go to the tuners on Tuesday. But for what its worth car has been running fine since...

Well story goes the other night i took my car out for a drive and got a knock reading of 207 on my S-AFCII. The controller is installed correctly and knock was set correctly and previously the highest reading i had gotten was 26. At cold start up i get a very small reading as with cold idle. Once the car is fully up to temp i.e after a 3 hour trip and stopping at traffic lights i get a reading in the mid teens. The reading of 26 occurred when i heel n toed from 5th to 4th to 3rd. But the reading of 207 happened on a very cold night <10 degrees. I was at 2000rpm and having just previously installed a 3"dump/front pipe and 3" high flow cat i wanted to see how it would pull. Went to 90% throttle and revved it out to 4300rpm before shifting and thats when the reading occurred. Prior to this i hadn't gone past 50% throttle. To double check i put it into second and did the same thing and got a reading of only 4. I haven't had the car tuned yet since i installed the A/F controller (booked in this Tuesday) but just wanted to hear your thoughts as to why i i got such a high reading. Car: HCR32 Mods: 3" turbo back exhaust with 3" high flow cat, Greddy VSP-L FMIC, M's Filter with CAI, Walbero Fuel Pump. Everything else is stock. The car does however run very rich. There's unburnt fuel over my rear bar and inside of the exhaust is i thick lining of carbon build up/soot. I always run it on Bp Ultimate. Apexi TT o2 voltage is constantly in the high .90's and theoretical A/F ratios is usually in the 10's. Is it just that the car is running super rich, or that it was a really cold night?