White GTS-T

Someone posted this on the Vic Drift sales site.

To clarify, this is what I meant by put a straight edge/level over the face of the manifold.

Most likely the manifold has warped after countless heat cycles. Remove the manifold and lay the new gasket over it to see how far out it is and put a level over it. If your lucky, it might be reusable one you have the manifold faced at a machine shop. i.e. The same process as machining a flywheel.

Does anyone know if Ten will be using the their own commentary, or the Sky/BBC feed?

Oh man, that was quick, RIP my inbox. Both items have been sold pending payment. If for some reason the sale fall through, KostaGTR has first dibs on the air guide and Terry has first dibs on the bumper guard. Thanks, Tim.

Hi all, I have two items up for sale, both are to suit R32. The first is this Attain Carbon/Kevlar rear bumper guard. As you can see it is still brand new and in the box. A great dress up item and an effective exhaust shield as well. Price: $200. The second is a Greddy Carbon/Kevlar R32 radiator air guide. This item is used, but is in excellent condition. Please note that it does have some very minor scuff marks on the back. Although these cannot be seen once fitted. Again, a great dress up item and an effective cooling upgrade. Price $200. I'm located in Horsham Victoria, and don't mind driving part way for pick-up, but delivery can also be arranged. Thanks, Tim.

As above.

Surely he meant 26 thou? (.66mm)

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/454332-r32-gtr-vspecii-1994-value/#entry7489385 Maybe?

You could also run the Nismo UCA brackets which correct some of the inherent geometry problems.

That cone proximity though...

Plus, that looks like stainless, all 6Boost manifolds are steam pipe.

Will send PM after work. Cheers.

Yeah they are a bit different to a lock bar and there are cheaper alternatives out there, but obviously yhe Midori Seibi gear is very high quality. I think there is an image of them fitted up in my build thread.

Loving this build, and your approach to modifying cars in general. I don't mean to spam this thread, but I have a set of Midori Seibi Hicas cancellers if you need. Keep the updates coming.

I tried to order my TE37's in 9" + 0, but they are NLA They will look the goods.

Yeah the dampening settings are more a personal preference, I like how the car feels and responds that way. You may find that it doesn't work for you, but every setup is different. As you said, adjusting the dampening is probably one of the easiest ways to change the balance and feel of the car, it's all about finding what works for you and your cars setup.

My 2c. Run some toe out on the front to help the car turn in. Too much toe out on the front will make the car twitchy in a straight line however. Start off with zero toe on the rear and add some toe in once you get comfortable. Start with 7-8 degrees of positive castor. Circuit drivers will tell you to wind in as much as possible, but too much positive castor induces positive camber on the inside wheel at opposite lock. Keep the ride height at a suitable level so the standard geometry can do its thing. Too low and you start messing the roll center, bump steer etc. Start with the rear swaybar on hard and the front in soft and go from there. I like to run the dampening on the softer side on the front and stiffer on the rear. Others will tell you otherwise. Start midway and see how the car feels. So something like this. Front toe: -6mm total (-3mm each side). Castor: 7-8 degrees positive. Rear toe: Zero. Good luck.

Still available.

That part number denotes the standard size.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153378-r32-have-your-overheat-fan-turn-on-with-your-ac/

I went to go back and re-read this beautiful build, and maybe it's just me, but it appears a lot of the image links are broken?

If you are really keen, I could do it this weekend. PM sent.

^And that is mostly due to direct injection.