White GTS-T

Haha, nice . At the Hillclimb I did, you were only permitted to 'clean the tyres', and you got kicked off for 'doing a burnout' .

I can't remember, are you running modified knuckles? Do you happen to know what your camber, caster and SAI/KPI is? I'd probably stay away from running a negative offset, but if you want to go all out, by all means, please do. Just be sure to post pics when you do

Running too much negative offset can negatively affect the scrub radius, but considering the offset you're thinking of running, I doubt that's of any concern.

Dat hillclimb. #MaximumAttack

Hi, Up for sale is a pair of used Willans Supersport 4x4 2/2 harnesses in Royal Blue. As you can see from the photos, these 4 point 2" harnesses come complete with 7/16' (seat bolt thread) forged eyelets and snap end fittings . Also included, are four 2" harness pads.This was a great, comfortable, entry level harness. Comes in Willans box with Wiilans instructions. The harnesses are dated 2009, so is still good for another 5+ years. Obviously there are no rips, tears, stains etc. They're in excellent condition. Pics speak for themselves. Price: $200. I'm located in Horsham, Victoria, but can post at buyers expense, or can arrange drop off/delivery.

Hi, Up for sale is a brand new, genuine Nismo, S13 Power Brace Ver. II. As you can see from the photos, the packaging was still sealed, and was only opened to take the photos. It includes all the Nismo paperwork, stickers etc. Price: $250. I'm located in Horsham, Victoria, but can post at buyers expense, or can arrange drop off/delivery.

Fuel pump wiring is often steel, which won't take solder. As above, they will have to be crimped.

A bit of an update. There hasn't been much progress lately, as the apprentice at work gave notice and left. I've been working extra hours to take up the slack by starting earlier and finishing later. Come the weekend I struggle to get motivated to spend my time back in the workshop. But I digress, The harness' are in and mounted. Considering the front suspension setup is now where I want it, I decided to focus my attention on the rear. I wanted to start from scratch, so I purchased a non-HICAS subframe. After trying to press the bushes out, I decided to loosen up the bushes with some heat. And went about reinforcing the pick-up points. It has since been stripped and is ready for paint. Once the subframe has been painted, I'll be fitting these. Obviously, to run the non-HICAS subframe, meant running non-HICAS uprights. Of which, I pressed the bushes out. In preparation for these. Since I'm going to be swapping out the uprights, I figure It's a good time to replace the wheel bearings. The main reason for the rear suspension overhaul is to tune out the bump steer. Having the same brand of arms all around, with the same thread pitch will make this easier. And lastly, to ensure the front and rear subframes are mounted square. Hopefully upcoming updates won't be so few and far between. Thanks for reading.

Welcome to SAU. AP Engineering HCR32 RB20 Power FC's, do come up for sale every so often in the 'For Sale' forums. They usually go for around the $800-$1200 mark, depending if the Hand controller is included. However, Apex's new EL hand controller, suits all Power FC models ever produced, even AP Engineering models. So if you have trouble finding a unit with a hand controller, this is another option. Regarding the SMIC, I think you'll have more trouble finding an ARC SMIC, rather than an AP engineering Power FC. Most people favour a FMIC over an aftermarket SMIC. Therefore, A R34 GT-T SMIC would be a great cheap alternative, and are readily available. Good luck.

As above, I'm sure this has been posted plenty of times, but it's still interesting nonetheless. Nissan vs. Ryco, Oil Filter Comparison

Shell SPIRAX S4 TXM, previously Shell DONAX TD.

Do yourself a favour and try the Redline lightweight shockproof gear oil.

I have a set, still brand new and never fitted. Comes in Nismo box, with Nismo paperwork.

If you don't already have a strut tower brace/bar you can buy them with an integrated master cylinder stopper. Otherwise, Cusco is the way to go.

It might be a long shot, but since It's been heat cycled, I would re-torque the head before pulling it down. Did you use the supplied ARP lube while torquing the head in sequence, or engine or similar? Maybe try another torque wrench? Sucks to hear man, hope it works out for you.

New rotors, pads, and fresh fluid will make a world of difference. If you have the cash, braided lines, and a master cylinder stopper will also increase pedal feel. There's no point changing out the master cylinder if retaining the standard calipers. If you've already read through the "Brake pads user rating guide" thread, I'll add that I'm using Project Mu' gear and I'm very pleased with it. Any quality brake fluid will suffuce, given that it is changed regularly. FWIW, I'm using Motul fluid. Good luck.

Is that Millennium Jade? Hhnnng!

A local asked me about one of these just the other day, I just sent him the link. But I imagine it wont last long at this price. GLWS.

I've done in chassis rebuilds at work where there simply wasn't a budget to remove the block, crank etc. We use the brush type hone on a drill with plenty of CRC for lube. Obviously the bores have to be thoroughly cleaned. ATF is very useful here. An oil stone, along with CRC, is used to clean up the block surface. Alternatively, if the surface is quite rough to start out, you can use a steel block or similar with varying grits of sandpaper and an oil stone to finish. It should be noted though, that these were standard rebuilds in daily drivers, i.e. A Transit van, and not on a highly strun RB26. And it was more of a case of get it in, get it done and get it going.

It probably goes without saying, but these new e85 pumps draw a lot of current and thus require a dedicated power and earth from the battery. The standard wiring doesn't cut it. This is a good read; http://radiumauto.com/media/techarticle-page.php?Radium-s-Ultimate-Fuel-Pump-Test-87 I linked that in the new fuel pump thread, which is also a worthwhile read. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/446806-the-fuel-pump-thread/

That's at full lock with full droop and that's the 'tightest' the line goes through the suspension travel. There's still plenty of length. Here's full lock the other way. But you're right, and the modified knuckles do exacerbate the problem slightly.

No worries. My Project Mu brake lines didn't have a banjo, but rather a male flare fitting, which is why I had to removing of the standard olive. The olive converts the brembo fitting from a male to a female type. I also used copper washers to aid sealing.

They are removable, but they can a bit of a pain to do so. I had to remove mine to facilitate the fitting of my braided brake lines. To remove them without damaging the internal thread, I screwed a large screw into it and gripped the screw with a slide hammer to ensure it pulled out square. I know most people will think the slide hammer is overkill, but it obviously didn't take much to get them out, just a slight tap. Good luck.

Yeah, it's pretty common on early kouki 32's. The later model lights, without the reflector, are the go, they look a lot nicer.

If you don't mind, could you please post, or PM the part number? It would much appreciated (^_-)