rsx84

from my understanding the ecu rpm signal wire is linked to the tacho, thats what i'm talking about, from the ecu to the tacho theres no signal at all which is why i'm concerned about the safc install as well...

my r32 rb20det has no rpm signal from the ecu? this was confirmed by the auto elictrican who fixed up some other bits for me, i have two questions 1st is can this be fixed without replacing the ecu? 2nd is will this effect the install of my safc the sparkie said he can get the signal from somewhere else oh yeah the engine isn't in a r32 anymore... Cheers Matt....

theres a place just up the road from me that rents a 4door n/a r33 and have good rates if you want me to look..

try the kick panel on the drivers side for the power window timer....

in the way of old cars that was about it for the nissan line and maybe the AE86 or someother 50bhp beasts.... the ultimate would be tuning houses as rewards veilside,HKS,A'pexi and Garrett to name a few, some of thier parts there for you to test on your make of car.....

HR30 and aus r31 28 kiwi born lived in oz since 1988 customer sales solutions specialist (thats what it says on my pay slip)

i guess no one won the tomica DR30 in GT2 or 3....

anyone know other places here on the gold coast that will paint rims...

if you go to the tech part in this link you'll find wiring diagrams for the r30 a cut down for parts and part # for the dr30, r30 specifacations lots of good info... http://au.geocities.com/timsmr30/R30skyline.html this site was started by a guy how first replyed to the now locked "r30 skylines" thread

if anyones looking heres a link to wiring diagrams for the r30 http://au.geocities.com/timsmr30/R30skyline.html good info site but was never finished, shame don't know if he still has the r30 or not?

wheels are on now, been driving it round for the last 3 days...there a charcol grey colour! i'll post up pics when the brakes are done and the rims are finished in a gloss black....

the front disks will not fit as the hub for the r30 fronts is a part of the disk itself..then theres the whole reason for puting the hubs on, the mounting holes for the callipars are different to the r30 whish will then allow you to mount the r32/33 callipars...wheels i'll be running P1 racing 17" with a 35 offset looks like i'll need spacers though....

its the clutch for shaw got a big wiff of it today, i'll get that fixed fri and see if a top shelf diff oil will help with that.......

just to add insult to injury, for the last 2 days i've been driving the car around with my 17" p1s' with 235 rears and now i don't know if the diffs gone or my clutch if rooted too, just wants to rev out with no forward go at all?? might put the 205's back on to see if that makes any difference? any ideas......Matt

i'm a bit confused with a problem i have? i've had troubles with me diff lately? i just went from 205 rears to 235 rears and now the car seems to get no traction and revs out through the gears? at first i through clutch but theres no over powering clutch smells so now i'm thinking diff is f@%ked big time? at low revs its all good but in any gear if i put my foot down quickley it will just rev out, no go forward, and i'm not touching the clutch peddel?? any ideas would be great? Cheers, Matt....

fatz was it you selling the r31 on the r31skyline site?

looks like a suped up vectra

i'm in need of replacing my standard r32 rb20det ECU and have been told i need to match up numbers'..... my problem is my ECU seems to have 2 sets of MEC numbers on it?? the one i think is not the right one is on a removable lid to the ECU.. the other is on the slim side next to where the little indocator light and dials are. if anyone could lets us know where these numbers should be that would be great.... Cheers Matt.....

need to replace my ecu at the moment as there is no tacho pulse?? i have a problem as i need to match up numbers and mine seems to have 2.. the first number is on a removable lid= MEC - R212 b 3629 the other is on side where the light is=MEC - R212 b 4461 i'm thinking its the 4461 # thats the right one So after all that if you have a standard r32 rb20det ECU with matching MEC #'s you don't need let us know and we'll go from there... i'm located on the gold coast QLD.. Cheers Matt....

i have an L20et ecu from my old engine sitting in the boot of my r31 doing nothing if you want it? my engine had the dizzie removed and sitting in the boot of the car, there were 2 there, they were the larger type as well. PM me if you want the ecu as i have no use for it..

i had a bitch of a time trying to replace the dizzy for my l20et, close'ist i got was being offered a whole working engine $900, ended up being one of the reasons i went to the rb20det, have you looked at the dizzie from the L24e, what about a distribitor place... what afm are you using and what ecu as well, how long have you run the car at 10psi?

i was wondering what that light was for too.. with my conversion the i'm using the r32 over flow bottle and its not conected to the wiring (why bother) i might just remove the bulb. one small mystery crossed of the list...

sounds like your thinking of the right bloke, didn't get his name, your spot on with the price though, 2 seater, rb26dett, half roll cage expression on your face priceless.....to get it, at the time, i was a couple of grand short so would have had to sell the hr30... didn't want to do that...

if he was on the coast here i'd offer him $500 LOL, in car yards i've seen them for anywhere from $4000-$7000 always depending on condition.... heres a pic of gts-x in good nick that i looked at buying 4 months ago, this one has a full rb26dett transplant though.... :coffee: get it all done at once for as theres nothing worse than having the car sitting in your garage waiting for you to finish the work your self, i know what that feels like.....

it may have been the MR30 that had a 81 model as there are some r30 owners here with late 81 model cars