rsx84

i don't know if this will help as the r30 was produced in OZ as well as imported in small numbers? the MR30 was the australian version, HR and DR were the japanese made sports versions produced in both 2 and 4 door examples, 81/82 the HR was built as an entry level sports car basic turbo inline sohc 6 cylinder producing around the 150-160bhp with a weight of around the 1150kg mark for the 2 door and only slightly more weighty in the 4 door, this car was raced both in japan, the USA and here in australia with "gibson motor sport" being the main surrporter of the skyline here in OZ, in the US Paul Newman took a liking to the car and raced it with much success there, this in turn lead to Nissan japan producing a limited # of "Paul Newman" HR30 skylines both in the 2 and very rear 4 door versions, still running the inline 6 but it produced around 170-180bhp. i don't know what year production of the HR stopped as in 1982 Nissan began production of the DR30.... the first of the DR range i believe was a N/A fj20de powered car about 160bhp, the car itself had quite a few differences to the HR, it had all the "mod cons" radio, a/c, power windows and central locking which in turn made the DR about 100kg heavier than the HR, this trend seemed to follow in the next versions of the DR as well. the RS DR30 was a step up from the N/A version as it was powered by the fj20det at around 180-190bhp not to many changes other than the turbo and a brake upgrade though, some may have had a factor sun roof? then in 83/84 Nissan went that extra step forward and revamped the DR30 skyline into something that will turn heads even today.. the RS-X DR30, for starters the intercooled fj20det produced 205bhp and was the most powerful production car produced by Nissan, the look of the car was changed to a more aggressive looking no grill smaller headlights sharper front profile, "tekemon" or "iron mask" was what it was refered to by locals. all of these models have made there way over to australia at some point and are still being shipped today... they were the beginning of what is now refered to as the "wedge shape" skyline, 6th generation skyline.....

i've driven a hr31 auto that i think had seen its used by date before and it was week my OZ r31 has more nuts than that one did, i'd perfer the r31 4door S3 gts

don't worrie to much it'll be one that they had to wreck for compliance, import 3 cars of one make to crash test and all that, thats why it has the bents in it on the back of the tilt tray, still it's not the best thing to look at regardless....

i didn't get my manifold off! and my engine was out of the car at the time, even hoisted the whole engine gearbox up by the turbo manifold and it didn't move, used a penitrating oil nothing. its on there for good now!

have a look at the "dr30 with rb engine"??? thread in this section for more info on the other side of the install... :run:

at the time i did the conversion i was able to get the rb20det installed and wired up, the r32 master cylinder and booster installed, the r32 radiator installed a new hybrid fmic and custom piping, new konis adj suspension all round, lowered king springs, whiteline sway bars front and rear, new dba slotted rotors and bendix comp X pads all round all for about $1000 dollars more then getting the rb25det, gearbox and loom just installed and wired.. it was just a dollars thing!! with good surrport systems on the rb20 and a rb25 turbo or vg30 180rwkw is not that hard to get....

a mate of mine has a pintara thats had a full S3 r31 upgrade and now runs a rb20det so it can be done and it should'nt be as hard as you might think, is yours power steering or non?

i'll change to oil as i think it'll need that, see how that goes, cars only gone maybe 100kms in total since i've owned it (2 years or so now). jason saw the pics of your car in the Qld section, nice one very nice indeed, shame mine wasn't back from the sparkies or i'd have tagged along to take the old girl for a run. :uh-huh:

this link is mostly for R30 skylines, but they do have bits for the R31s' as well. pretty much anything aftermarket your looking for r30 wize they'll have! www.r30.co.jp there called "Jenesis"... also i was looking for the website for the skyline museum, i think the name has "red" in it? if anyone can help with this that would be great. Cheers....

your starting to make it sound hard! OK all that was done in the cabin area was connection the ECU power to the ignition, what i'll do is over the next few days when the car comes back i'll take some more detailed pics the wiring in the cabin and replace the ones above. i'll look at the r30 wiring diagram and see what wires are what and post up a more detailed discription!

the thing to know is that most of the rb loom is not needing to be touched just feed it through the hole in the fire wall. the trouble is the ignition connection to the ecu and control of the fuel pump, mostly external things to wire in. the only other thing is a sensor (temp i think) at the front of the block that is spliced into a fat clump of wires at the fire wall.

ok i have had very similar things happen to my r31 before, the problem for mine is a plug to a temp sensor at the front of the engine, what my machanic said is this, if the sensor is'nt sending signals to the ECU the ECU shuts of the injectors and there for kills the engine, if the plug is loose and sending part signals then you'll be getting working injectors then non working injectors hence the coughing engine? this was fixed and the problem stopped.

have you looked at other brands for the rotors GREX or CSC may be more expensive though!

post up some pics here say with it sitting next to the standard rb20det turbo someone may have a ruff idea, also with the supra fmic set up you have that might be keeping to much heat in the air as a mate here also runs one with his r31/rb20det and always runs hi-temp's, at least 20degrees higher than mine all the time. good luck with it all...

Doc, can you get your hands on a rb25 turbo at all as it might be an idea to bolt one on to get a different turbo responce going, also with the last dyno result you got it seems very low rwkw's for the mods you have, evey tuners guide and rb20det rwkw thread i've read seems to point to around the 160rwkw mark for the mods you have and a standard turbo running 14psi, get someone who can play with the link system to dyno the car for you as i think you get a much different result without to much stuffing around. (300fly wheel hp) Matt....

nissan did make an inline DOHC 6 cyl engine about the same time they released the HR30 81/82 , looked like an extended fj20, i'll try to find out some info on it!

nice one mate, i've got 215/40/17" and 235/45/17" at the rear just for that drag look. might have to get the guards rolled before i get it resprayed, has anyone used the adj chamber tops from the s-13 at all?

predator: with all that if you went for a hi-flowed BB vg30 turdo for say $100 extra you'd be over the 210rwkw mark on the rb20det and have the surrport systems to upgrade the turbo later to get more power.

the way you'va gone about it seems to be the most cost effective as i'm about to do the same to my old r30 skyline using the s-13 hubs and redrilled gts-t rotors and just bolt on the calipars, i gather your wanting to go 5-stud as the new rims you mentioned are all 5-stud. jms did have 4-5 stud changing spacers at some point for sale they were something like $600 for all 4 corners..

so you still have to run the AFM with a PFC then, its a shame you didn't get a ecu that did away with the AFM and kill 2 birds with one buy...good luck with it all..

prices for r33 rb25det 1/2 cuts seem to be around the $4000 mark, if you or your mate know an auto sparkie then that will save you money on the trickie bits of the install, fmic and 3" full system, "Zoom" mag #77 has a rb25det tuners guide which if you've seen any of there other guides they work in rwkw stages...

found out today my machanic is on holidays till the end of the month, so i'll get the work done when he gets back, i'm working on a +35 offset for the front to fill the gaurds got the rims allready 17" P1 racing, i've put them on the car once so far and there is a bit of a gap so i'm hoping the coilovers and s-13 hubs will sit out more...

the most popular one would have to be the one JAMESW posted, i have it as a screen saver at work, haven't seen the other side before though!

i did all that, cut the brown wire with in 2 seconds or you'll blow the engine :Bang: , i think its the ecu thats my problem.

i had a problem hooking up my tacho to the rb20det ecu, i followed the instructions and hooked all the wires up correctly power,earth and ignition. i had a problem with the ecu tacho wire its self, when i connected the tacho pulse wire to the green rpm signal wire from the tacho itself all that would happen is the tacho would go to 3000rpm and just sit there?? the car is a the auto electrican at the moment getting some other things fixed so i'll get them to look into the problem?