rsx84

i'm have a problem with my diff, my car is an old HR30 which should have a R200 LSD diff in it, now the problem is this, took off the other day and lit up the rear in first then went to second still spinning, plenty oh smoke at the time. on the way home coming past the other way i noticed that my black line, for a start there was only one and just to make me think more, at the point i went into second the black line has swapped from the passenger side to the drivers side???? now there is a debate on what the go is with my diff: A: is it an open wheeler with a complex B: is it a rooted r200 C: needs better diff oil as its been sitting for a while? if you have the answer to this problem please let us know? Thanks Matt....

lets go back to my first post to add a little more confusion, if my diff was an open wheeler would it transfer drive power between wheels which was the reason i posted this question in the first place, never seen it happen before??

also another thing is that when i have the car off the ground and spin the wheels by hand one will spin one way and the other will spin the other?? the cars at the auto electrican at the moment which is across the road from my machanics which is were the car is going next, swapping over the rear calipars and hand brake set up so i'll get him to change the diff oil to one of the ones above then too. thanks for ya help

those jaycar kits are $29.99 for the 2door or $39.99 for the 4door wire them up yourself..

i was there from about 11am and watched most of the street tyre runs for the day and did'nt see the other one run

yeah two runs for the castrol gtr into the 10's, there were also a few other gtrs into the 12's, one head to head run by a blue (very stock looking) r34 gtr and a silver slightly modded looking r34 gtr both ran high 12's my mate may have the run on film i'll ask later today. a lot of r33 gts-ts running also 12's as well. might go back for the finals today if i'm alive..

if you have central locking theres little motors that pull down the locks?? when you push down the main door lock....

FJ all the way he said with a shit load of work! he was saying he was having trouble with wheel spin running 235's, very nice car outside and in. he said he's from Gympie drove down for the meet, there was also a 4door DR there too i think it was the one from HPI on the coast didn't see it? took me r31 as a part of the r31skyline club here in QLD...

are you doing this with a stock rb20 turdo or something else, you'll find that the ecu will cut off the fuel at that kind of psi?.. my boost gauge only reads 11psi at full boost and im going into third around 110km???

went to the fast fours jamboree today saw some mad cars and even better times but was surprized to see a 2door DR30 there,l spoke to the bloke saw him do a pass 14.4 i think at 9? miles an hour, heres some pics.

took the car for a spin yesterday, just for the hell of it, before taking it to the electrican, had a mate in the car so i dumped it and its started to spin the passenger side wheel then knocked it into second still spinning but changed to the drivers side wheel spinning?? i'll put up a pic of the black lines as its even funny to look at.. anyone know while this would happen??? Cheers Matt.... dam it was good to drive her again...

ok for starters you have a dead turbo there, a replacement turbo would be something like a ball bearing rb20, your turbo on the l20et should be oil feed as theres a oil line running from the oil sump to the turbo, i had a bitch of a time trying to get the turbo and manifold off my old l20, ended up just getting it all taken away?? i think each door has its own motor in the r30, a wrecker with a MR or HR should be able to get a motor for you, i've got a centre control unit waiting to get the motors for the hr30...

always had a thing for the hr31 would have been the car i drive today if i didn't find the r30

the upgrade itself is a stepping stone to put the gtr bits on later if needed

the DR30 had more power and slightly less handling abilty than the top model porsche at the time. the family versions were the MR 4doors hence all the mod cons for the 1982 model, the HR and DR were always performance based cars from the lighter body to the adj front susp control, then with the dr and the FJ20det engine (either F1 engine at the time or soon to be F1 engine) the people at nissan must of had something in mind for the DR...sports car, GT car or just muscle car with out set guidelines for each name its always going to be one name for one and another name for another!

i was looking to get this work done this week but am still to find an auto electrian to do the last of the electrical work on the car and my machanic has gone mia?? i'll keep you posted?

heres some pics i've taken of the wiring up of my engine to the r30 electrical syastem. if you have any questions leave a post and i'll put a more detailed write up for ya... i'll update the pics when i get my digi camera back; more detailed info posted 28/12/04 from the white/red wire at the back of the ignition a blue wire runs through to the ecu, a fuse was put at the end then it links/splices into a white wire with a black stripe and silver bands.. this white wire goes to the main relay (4 wires out of it, 1 orange, 2 white with black strip, 1 black with white strip). from the main relay the 2 white/black strip wires are connected together to make one wire.... from ignition the black/white stripe wire has a red wire spliced into it going to the ecu, it then is split into 2 fused wires, the first fused wire goes to a thick white wire that goes to the fuel pump relay, with the fuel pump relay there are 4 wires, 1 orange, 1 white/purple stripe, 1 white/black stripe, 1 thick white wire...he has cut the thick white wire, the white/purple and the white/black wires.. the white only wire is connected to a wire running to the fuel pump its self... the white/black wire is extended to connect to a black/pink (pin 18) wire comming out of the ecu...the white/purple wire is spliced into the orange wire then that connects to the red wire running to the ignition, at that same point they are then connected to the other half of the thick white wire that dissapears into the firewall.... the second fused wire from the red wire goes to a black/red (pin 45) wire from the ecu the pinout put numbers i refer to i got from www.rb20det.com

the DR30 was built as a race car base, same as the GTHO phase III was for ford.

i've always had a thing for the red one at the top.. and the only way a car can be exempt from ADR's is when its unregistered and does not touch any road.... just sold my deep dish watanabes to a mate with a r31 they look pretty sweet, at least the sr20 powered one carries the name "R31house" you have to take that into consideration....

if you put enough BLING BLING on.... also the hr30 is the no thrills dr, non of the electric goodies a bit less power

just to answer the last question the ecu is behind the passengers side kick panel, "joint" ??? just another thing for you to think of, my machanic said that theres a temp sensor that if it stops sending signals to the ecu the ecu will shut off the injectors which in my case resulted in the same problem as you?

what i'll do is get some pics of my wiring set up for ya, theres a yellow wire as a part of that large connector that has been spliced into, but i'll post up pics over the next few days.

the 2 articals side by side, to me, seem to be someone trying to justify themselves just a little to hard! i don't get it, the top secret story seems to be a dig at the other thread here relating to "speed", "AND IT"S A V8", people who posted there were reffering to the factory produced car not a workshop produced monster?

the l20et (HR30) as i tryed to use one from the l24e to get a l20et working with no luck

just through i'd throw this in as the l20 and l24 dizzies are different!