Appealing

And the weather forcast is.......Early shower then fine. Min 9 Max 19 Soooo...... that means I get to use my heated seats!!! And we might all make use of the Atessa (maybe) then fine for the BBQ!! Cool I'll post up the weather again on Saturday.

Hey Russell, can you post up your pics again, cos since the re-hosting of the site, they are no longer there. Your car does sound like a Prime edition. There are a lot more knick-knacks that you should have though. Like Auto lights, Full electric seats, Leather & wood wheel and Centre console. Auto closing rear door. I have no idea about the switch at your right foot. I have never heard of it. If all the cars in the same yard have it then maybe it is something fitted there. Just had a look at mine and definately doesn't have anything in that area. Sounds like you might have to trace this one to find out, unless someone else knows. I was told, when I bought mine that the transmission is a weakness in the Stagea, (which was venomously denied by others on this site). I was also told that they can start plying up at around 140,000km. Sounds like having the warranty was a good idea in your case. I have had no probs though. (touch woodgrain). Did you get to keep your Xenons? The twin sunroofs are an option, mine doesn't have them. Cheers John

Hi Graham yeah you were following me most of the way until you peeled off in Midland. No the price of the alarm in the quoted pricing, is very general. You won't get much for $150.00!! I think that I paid a bit over $300 for mine. But the guy did a stirling job, they are a bit of a pig to fit, cos of the central locking. He talked me into having it linked up to the alarm then wished he hadn't!! haha. It took him about 3 hours to fit. But I thoroughly recommend him, He even did the job at very short notice.his name Darren Farquhar - 0412 224 650. Neu-Tech Auto Electrical. Now if I did loose my key i can still get into the car. I recommend this for any Stagea owner. The ignition key, is only about $25 for a spare. So now I have the original key, an alarm remote with central locking AND a spare remote and ordinary key. Cheap when you take into account that a Nissan central locking remote key is about $120.00. (my car was supposed to have a spare key..... never found it though). See you on the next run..... next week ..... I hope.

I wasn't happy with my S2 when I first got it. But once I decided that I didn't have to use the boost all the time, it made a huge difference to the economy. The worst that I had was 360kms per tank, the best (on highway at 110) was 525km this equated to 9.47l/100km. Pretty good. I am now getting 420km per tank around town. I changed spark plugs, (cos I had a nasty misfire at 4500 rpm), and I have run two treatments of fuel injector cleaner through. I do run 98 octane, but not all the time. The highway run was done on 95 octane. Car (engine) is stock 'cept for exhaust.

You need to realise that the S1 do not have the tiptronic option. They are slightly heavier on fuel. Most of us with S2's do not use the tiptronic much. If you've only driven Fords then boy are you going to feel ripped off when you get a car made properly, with lots of standard features, that Ford only deem as optional. I've have always had Fords, still do. But in a word they are shit in comparison. That's why my Stagea wears an LTD number plate LOL :laughing-smiley-014: I'll PM you on my opinion of certain websites, so that you know how they work. Oh and also the auto's are pretty quick, as the turbo stays spooled up (on power) through gearshifts. Where as manuals dump their power. I just got 9.47 km per 100 km in mine on a country run. I f you buy a good Stagea, you will be surprised how many mods it may already have. Then you don't need to fork out anyway. My advice is to buy the best that you can afford. Don't buy cheap and do it up. You'll have a cheap done up car! Mods aren't worth much on resale either.

I also agree that it is wise to keep an extra 10% in mind for other "unforseen" things, like local Japanese freight. Most yards in Japan will hold the cars for 30 days, or even more, at no (extra) charge, and that way it should make the next ship easily. Import duty is 10% not 15%, and this is based on the price of the car FOB. GST (10%) is based on the car + cost of freight. The shipping of my car to compliance was $140, (return). Full shipping cost was $1633 Full amount of compliance $4188 Full amount of import duty and misc was $5370 Anyway it is definately wise to overbudget on all of it. I was actually pleasantly surprised, that mine didn't reach $25,000 which was my budgeted amount. As we all know it wouldn't take much to add another $1000 or so. My car was 1,244,500 YEN FOB. I looked at quite a few other cars, (including a few autechs) most had some sort of problem, and woudl have been more expensive in the long run. This one didn't and was graded 4B. This probably has a lot to do with not needing to spend any extra money. The car sailed through compliance. It did need new tyres, however, hence the extra $688 on the top of the normal $3500. It's true Autech's are in a different league, my original point was for a quick sale. Lots of poeple will take the "punt" on a $30000 import, over one that has had a rebuild. Not necessarily the wisest way to go. But I know from experience how many people will buy a cheaper car and then spend a fortune on it!!! Crazy me thinks, but it happens all the time. So personally I think that at $45K you will be waiting a long time for your buyer. But as they say, you can always come down, very difficult to go up!! Good luck with it, hopefully someone in WA will buy it and we can get a good look at it then!

This black one would have been quite outstanding, at 29,000km for a 2000 Car, no wonder it went for US$27,000, bet it didn't come to Aus though, not with our import fees. 2000 2600 F5 29,000 black WGNC34 260RS AUTECH US$27000 4.5 Auction date 19.04.2007 2000 2600 F5 87 silver WGNC34 260RS US$10200 4 05.04.2007 1998 2600 F5 71 pearl WGNC34 260RS AUTECH US$6000 3 30.03.2007 1998 2600 F5 141 pearl WGNC34 260RS AUTECH US$5000 3.5 30.03.2007 It is VERY HARD to find a 98 that still rates grade 4 - 4.5, if you could I have no doubt it would still fetch good money. Please remember that I have No Info on these cars other than the price paid. I haven't been watching them. Now you all the Autechs though auction in the last month OK approximate spend on importing............... US$8500 = A$10385 Freight & Agents fees $2000 Compliance $4000 Tyres $700 Alarm $150 Stamp duty $900 Rego etc (6 months) $500 Total $21300 Allow another 1000 for insurance & Maybe $1000 for brokers $23300 Stilll under $25,000 Cheers John

Seeing as it is getting a little closer (and was just about to fall off page one), I thought that I'd make the suggestion of going a bit further afield than we have been. The cars are so good to cruise in that I think we could try for up to the 100km radius of Perth GPO. That could cover such places as Mandurah, Bunbury, York, Northam, etc. The cars would easily make this in an hour or so, as long as we got our shit together to leave early it woudln't make it too long a day. Otherwise lets have some map ideas. Thoughts people thoughts.....

Hey Ken, whilst I am sure that you are going to get lots of input and a whole range of values. I am sure that you realise that hardly anyone ever gets back what they spend on a car. The Autech is something special, and always will be but is isn't on the collecters list yet. They are a different beast for sure. Because they share much with GTR, you will get a rub off effect from the value of these. Seeing as you have rebuilt the motor, it will add some value. but you have remember, that a good autech, if it hasn't been given a hard time wont need rebuilding anyway. Therefore I would say that this only adds about $2500 to the price of an good one. Even though the rebuild probably cost far more. A replacement RB26 can be had for about $8000, but that money doesn't need to be spent on one that already has a good motor. I would think that with the extra's you should be able to get around the $30,000 mark. However you may be hanging out for a while for this money. A good 97 GTR will sell at around this price too. This is really your market as well. But most people won't want to spend as much on an Autech Stagea. If you want to get rid of it in a short time then I would plumb for $28,000 and don't move. You will then get someone who wants a Stagea to "step up" to your autech or someone who wants a GTR "step down". Please note that I am trying to be as objective as I can, and not critical in any way. FYI These are the latest auction prices paid for Autechs at auction in Japan. 1998 2600 F5 112kms black WGNC34 260RS AUTECH US$9000 grade 3 24/4/07 About $24,000 on road 1998 2600 F5 37,0 kms black WGNC34 260RS AUTECH US$13000 grade3 21/4/07 About $28,000 on road 1998 2600 F5 83 kms pearl WGNC34 260RS AUTECH US$8300 3.5 19/4/07 About $21,000 on road 1998 2600 F5 105 kms blue black WGNC34 260RS AUTECH US$8600 3.5 19/4/07 About $21,500 on road So all the above cars could be complied in Aus for about $25,000 or less, it's all competition for you!! Hope this helps. John

OK since this thread has been revived I thought that I'd let eveyone know what happened with the car. I was kinda surprised that I hadn't updated this since it's arrival. Evreyone on the last WA cruise saw it, it was also in the cruise post pictures. Since the car arrived I have had almost no problems at all. I really think that it is simply the best car I have ever owned, (even way better than a Fairmont Ghia). The best car that I ever had B4 this was a '93 XR2 Turbo Capri which was 6 months old and only had about 12,000 kms on it. But this is better, much better, and cost me less than the XR2 did in 1993!! (it was $25,000 on the road with insurance and 6months rego). The only problem that I experienced in the import process was that it seemed to coincide with every holiday we could possibly have! We hit Xmas, New year and Australia day, (man was that frustrating). But the most frustrating part was actually getting the car from the Port of Fremantle. The have put in new security, and it sucks big time. You can't go on the dock unless you have a pass to get one takes a course and weeks. No-one was interested in escorting me, and that's the only other way on. I finally got the emergency services guys to escort me. K-line (shipping) were not interested. P&O (who did the final clearance) were absoloutly A1 fkn usless, just prooving that all I had heard about stevedores was true! Anyway eventually got it home. It is one awsome car, with almost every conceivable extra. I love it. I have no doubt in my mind that the kms are genuine. I had one problem, a misfire after some heavy acceleration (actually took it to the drags to see how they go). It started misfiring B4 I got there. But it just got worse and I did only 3 runs. It managed 15.4 secs, which isn't too shabby for a family wagon weighing in at 1600 + kgs. Once I changed the spark plugs (to copper) it ran fine. I took out platinums and every coil pack lead had original stickers on them, If you look around the engine bay you will see them on lots of parts, and they are dated. Mine were all Nov 2000. They crumbled when touched, as would be expected after 6 years and 78,000 km. This is why I know the kms are original. The fuel consumtion around town is not that great, the worst being 360km per tank, (early heavy foot days), recently though we have managed almost 420km. Last weekend we went for a drive to Bussleton, in WA's SW. We got 525km to a tank full, and would have got a little more. OUr consumption actually worked out to 9.47ltrs per 100km. I think that this is very good. I haven't yet managed to get it to spin wheels even in the wet. I do want to eventually get it on a skid pan and discover the limit of adhesion somewhere where it is safe. With 245/ 18's it is a pretty sticky car. I love all the nick knacks and extra's of the Prime edition. I am very happy with the buy. I also worked out the cost of the extra's on the car. The wheels, kit, exhaust etc. It all comes to about $10,000. I had to pull out the Nav system and the stereo, as they just don't work in Aus, and I still haven't sorted out the digital TV /Screen, with anything else going into it. All in all it is a very stunning example, that I am very happy to say is mine. Thanks for all the nice comments guys. See you out on the road.

Actually Hugh, Lots of good autopaint shops have the facility to be able to put any paint they make up into a spray can. Just check around your area. Find a really good guy who'll not only use the formula but also be able to eye match the colour. The pearls do have a different base usually but a good painter will give you the drum on the best way to match it. Don't go down to the 16 yo shop assistant and expect them to able to do it. (maybe some could). As you know age defintely gives you more experience!! Or at least it SHOULD!! Cheers John

Yeah check it out here: http://raws.dotars.gov.au/rawswebpublic/RA...cipant_id=10161 Info: Participant Details: PIN 10161 Company Name THRUST PTY LTD ABN 31 071 630 629 Trading Name NORTHSHORE PRESTIGE MOTORS Address 1B Paton Place BALGOWLAH NSW 2093 AUSTRALIA Company Representative Details: Contact Name Mr Benjamin Wilmot Phone 02 9948 5302 Fax 02 9948 9502

Yeah OK, maybe not the wasteland, but nearly all of these subjsects have been covered many times. The buyers guide, was supposed to be just that, Facts about the cars, and links to where those facts coudl be found. In the last 2 months it's blown out from being easy to read to what is now 6 pages of mostly personall stuff. Whilst we like looking at new cars, this should be done in a new topic not on a sticky thread. The factory fuel consumtion figures are all here, (if you look). Just add 10% (like all factory figues). The buyers guide is one of the first theads newbie's read. Getting the facts, (size, capacity, power, etc etc) is more important when first looking, IMO.

Guys, I hate to be a party pooper but this is far off topic now. It's supoosed to be the buyers guide. All the essential stuff is getting buried in personal wishes, want's and stuff about fuel economy. All that stuff should be on the wasteland post.

We will be there, with our bluey. Hope there is somewhere for the kids to play. (I must remember to take the portable DVD player!)

I had cruise control fitted to my stagea. I am cruise control freak. (most people think just control freak!). I luv it. Not only for trips but also around town. I even use it sometimes in the school zones (40kph). You just never know when Mr Plod is going to be pointing a radar gun at you. Oh I turn it off for drag racing though! Oh yeah $640 at Cruisewest. Nice unit, on the wheel, Looks like Nissan fitted it.

Yeah Nice car mate, looks like another Prime edition. Gotta luv that wood and leather. Looks good in red. I amazed that there aren't more red ones.

Not strictly true about the fully comp insurance not being available. I had mine insured from the dock in Fremantle. Under a cover note. I know that having four other vehicles insured with Western QBE had something to do with it. But it was insured for $25,000 agreed value and at the time still unregistered. They might not do an interstate trip though.

Hmmm don't think I'd be shelling out anything. It's rusty, and if it's rusty in one place it wont be long before it'll appear in others. Probably wouldn't get through comliance, (shouldn't anyway). Looks like it's had a low maintenance life. My Falcon with 330,000 looks cleaner under the bonnet than this thing. Even for that price, a high performance motor with 140,000 (genuine??) km's, would need rebuilding. Looks like a very expensive restoration job to me. For just the cost of the engine rebuild alone (+ the cost of this) you can find a nice one.

Mine is a Dolphin kit it was on the car when I got it. I recently backed into something (steel) and cracked it. I can say that I am glad it wasnt' plastic. It's a fairly easy repair. It made a fairly large chip though (about 75mm across). A bit of resin and glass bog and a bit of a spray and will be like it didn't happen. A bigger hit might be different. But I guess as long as you have all the bits, it can be fixed. Even your's could without it showing.

The model that you are looking for is the prime edition, if you want all the bells & whistles. The silver, white colours definately sell for less. I have seen them go for as little as A$6000, for a 2000 model with 70,000, but you have to be lucky or maybe careful! I paid $13,000 for mine, ($25,000 landed complied and everything paid inc insurance), but it has a full body kit, 18" alloys, and is Bayside Blue, original 78,000km's. Just be careful of respray's. I am happy to run any numbers through FAST for you. This is the last prices published for a Prime edition Date year cc Shift km's Colour Model Model US$ grade 22.03.2007 2000 2500 FA 74 pearl WGNC34 25T RS-4V PRIME 6800 4 15.03.2007 2000 2500 FA 57 pearl WGNC34 RS-4 PRIME E 10400 3 01.03.2007 1999 2500 FA 35 pearl WGNC34 RS-4 PRIME E 10200 4 Because of their prices I am fairly certain that the last 2 are turbo's too. Of course the auction sheets would have told you more. Oh and don't bother asking where I get the info, cos I won't tell!! But believe me it's true, I know I found mine too. Ciao John PS I have found the leather great even on the hotest days it certainly isn't unbearable.

All the above The Colour, (Bayside blue) The leather The HALF WOOD steering wheel Auto lights (xenon) Electric seats (can't wait for winter to try the warmers) CRUISE CONTROL NEO engine Tiptronic 4WD (another reason to welcome winter) Body kit Doesn't drip any oil Climate control. It's very unusual The amount of people that actually read the badges and still shrug their shoulders. The most comfortable and coolest car I've ever owned

Hmmm I had the same thing happen once with my '92 Falcon wagon. So I know how you feel. From memory I worked at it from inside, with a kraft knife to shred the cloth, and a screwdriver to pressure the latch. It was a real bitch. The cloth tends to keep the latch closed and the hatch holds the cloth tight. It may help if you have someone on the outside, to push the tailgate in slightly (so that the latch isn't under the same pressure. I know that mine went very suddenly and then just released (opened). Other than that there isn't much that you can do (or a locksmith come to that). The bolts holding the lock on are underneath the lock. So they wont come out with the door in the closed position. Try having someone hold the handle in the open position while you sit down and put pressure on the bottom of the door with your legs. If you can get at the latch you may be ableto trip it with the screwdriver, or you may have to make a "tool" to enable you to do this. Bear in mind tht it is only jammed. It should give in the end, after a bucket of sweat! Best of luck. Tell you what, I bet it NEVER happens again!! I just realised that you are in Perth, (I think). So if you want to come around and see how the lock works and looks while it is in the open position, PM me.

I will be bringing my new Stagea, may as well give it a run, and meet some of you guys. Dead stock (drive train) S2.

Mine does exactly the same thing. I too thought that it was an overdive on 4th, sure feels like it. But as munch says it is probably the lock up convertor. Mine is only really noticable when I shift the stick into the tiptronic position, and 4 comes up on the dash instead of D. The revs definately drop. I haven't paid much attention to when it does it from cold. I will from now on. I'll let you know.