THRLLR

I drive my 260rs everyday into melbourne cbd and out again all through peak hour. Quite stock atm, running 12psi, boost controller, turbo back exhaust and pod filters, SAFC. I get 350kms in city traffic and 500km on highway driving. Being a wagon its heavier also. :-(

im in for one too. But im in melbourne so i guess posted id going to be my option. Do you have one more available? The one with the "STAGEA" word and a double unicorn on either side :-)

I Definitely like 2nd match date.

Philip island would be awesome. Especially if the cruise could end in a couple of laps of the raceway lol

is that the 260 rs owners manual or just everything but the 260rs???

Dude, i feel for you. They are one of the rarest items. I've only seen 2 in melbourne so far. Hopefully you find one :-D Good luck maybe rhd japan or yahoo auctions

i like the idea of a cruise to Lorne or there abouts would be quite nice

any of those dates should be fine for me and the familia :-)

Im also in! Always a pleasure to drive amongst other stag owners. Especially delighting in the "WTF are those cars" looks. LOL

+1 for Wolverine's Ebay idea. much easier than asking a wrecker to cut the factory loom LOL

looks like somone may have butchered the original loom to fit the O2 sensor that is currently installed. the new one you have seems to be the stock loom setup. You have a couple of options though; You can source the original loom connector to fit the standard O2 sensor you have bought and cut off the one you have in there already...OR..... you can keep the same connector and cut off the new one and splice the wires together. The 2 white wires are for the heating element in the sensor and the black wire is the signal wire that goes to your ECU. your first picture doesnt show which colours are connected to the actual oxygen sensor. IT looks like its a 4 wire connector and the green one is the only one not connected. You might want to use a voltage tester and test the wires so you know which one is which.

Rocker Cover Bolt Washers: 13268-58S01 Obviously you would need 20

Is it for na or turbo as the pipe size will make a difference

Sorry just saw Exhaust sold lol

I don't suppose you still have the gt ecu for an auto non turbo r34? And the Exhaust also?

As per title I'm chasing a stock r34 neo ecu for non turbo rb25 automatic BTW I'm in Melbourne. Willing to pay postage from interstate

Yes I had it base idle mode/timing mode and rpm was at 600 as per manual. Quite literally by the book. That's what is weird, The ECU seems to think normal is 10deg. Its got me stumped

Oops, I should have also mentioned that with a timing light the timing had been set to 10deg and there ecu also said 10deg. Now I know the ecu is static and can't be altered. So the ecu saying 10deg in base timing mode for a 2.5L Rb feels wrong due to all the Nissan service manuals saying that all 2.0L RBs should be set to 10deg, all 2.5LRBs should be 15deg and all 2.6L RBs should be 20deg at stock. So this ecu seems wrong. But if someone had an Auto r34 ecu non turbo I could borrow or have our even buy in Melbourne that would help me heaps

Also, what are the consequences of having the ECU expecting 10deg btdc and actually setting the engine at 15deg btdc?? Could the issue actually be a Nissan ECU programming mistake??? The engine is actually a 2.5L NA Neo engine which the R34 FSM says has to be set at 15deg btdc.

I am working on my mate's R34 RB25de NEO car and he has a really strange issue. I have confirmed via Nissan FAST that his car is indeed a non Turbo automatic and I have also confirmed his actual ECU is for a non Turbo r34 automatic. The issue is this; when I connect via consult port with Nissan datascan or ecutalk or conzult etc they all say that his timing is 10deg btdc and it jumps around to as low as 3 or 4deg and as high as 12 to 15deg at idle. Tps voltage is perfect. The engines timing was set to 10deg also. His car was randomly dieing while on the move. The r34 fsm says it is supposed to be 15deg btdc and I've set it to that but why does ecu expect 10deg? Any ideas? Do I need another ecu? If so, anyone have a non Turbo r34 auto ecu to give away?

PM SENT!

you would have to find out if they are adjustable, if so you can set/adjust them to their highest point (still lower than standard). If you dont know how to tell take a wheel off and take a photo of the spring/shock absorber setup and most people here can tell you straight away if they are adjustable. :-) If they are not adjustable then you will have to buy a new set of either coilovers or even go back to standard/stock. If your bodykit is as low as i think it is you may need to go back to stock :-( (Although it is cheaper than buying a new set of coilovers.

Thanks for the info guys, I have bought another radiator now and am going to slap it in this weekend and then taking the car for a highway cruise and we shall see, but im 99% confident this issue is about to be fixed!!

Thanks for all the advice its awesome. I'll be pulling the radiator out again and I'll do the "cold patch" test mentioned above just to make sure the radiator is truly blocked. While I'm at it I may as well pull out the pump and thermostat and make sure they are fine. I'll call natrad and see what they charge for a clean. Probably right though., a replacement won't be much more than a replacement.

Update; That makes sense abouy the stock gauge. Most ppl would panic. Lol The temp went to 99deg C via consult cable yet the gauge was still at halfway. Anyway I decided to flush all the coolant out. Stuck hose into radiator and kept it topped up. Disconnected return hose and let engine run. It seemed that the thermostat opened up as normal and then water started spewing out of return hose as expected. Engine maintained steady 80 to 84deg while doing this. I kept this up until water flowed clear as possible. I emptied radiator and then filled it with coolant. And got engine but to operating but even though temp went past 90deg the radiator showed no signs of draining water into engine. Steam seemed to make its way out of return hose but the coolant still stayed in radiator. All I can think of is blocked up radiator (but why did it let water through the engine from the running hose but then not the coolant?) And faulty thermostat, but that is brand new from Nissan. Now I need to find a radiator for his car.