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wouldn't really put the car on the dyno over an intake mod, mainly because most dyno tuneups are done with the hood open and a fan forcing air to the engine bay, hardly replicating the *real world* driving with the hood down in heavy traffic and 45 degree heatwave

darn, I was going to buy that exact vlsd from Eugene but u beat me to it

im interested. is it noisy from inside the cabin?

just wondering if it's possible to just get the LSD off a 350z and install it in the open diff of our V35? i'm not referring to buying the whole diff, just installing the lsd?

nice. haven't seen that kit before. front looks a bit like INGS but i dont want a kit that stoops too low. i drive around a lot of places where there's a steep incline and always scrape the bumper.

well was contemplating the K2 Remix, until Steve convinced me that it looked ghey, and the Kuruma z hangs too low and I scrape badly in most places as it is. So might end up getting a nismo front & possibly impul sides. Other option is just a front lip to keep it nice and clean. btw, where did u get ur kit fitted n painted? i want to know how much it cost for painting & fitting a whole bumper vs just a front lip. Cheers Victor. ps: looking forward to a meet n greet in May.

hey victor, was certainly good catching up and meeting some new V owners. Sorry I couldn't make it for the whole cruise (and for turning up at Powis St car park at 1.45pm..dohhh!! honestly thought it was a 1.30 meet up and a 2pm departure) seeing all the cars dressed up makes me want a kit even more now. i may be getting a front bumper next month. if anyone else is interested, just send me a pm. I can organise this for WA owners only coz really don't have time to arrange for interstate shipping.

I only have the full office 2010 purchased at corporate rates for $15 wish I heard about this sooner.

put a s/charger in, but keep all the stock components in ur shed ( don't sell these off and try to recoup some money) When it comes time to sell, return the car to stock and sell the aftermarket bits off (no one believes ads that say "twin turbo 500hp V35 skyline with Dyno Charts to prove...meticulously maintained, only driven weekends, never driven on high boost, mature driver...bla bla...bs bs and more bs)

is this a plug unit to the diagnostic port or does it require splicing wires into the ECU? I've yet to take my car to the 180km/h factory limit, but would be nice to have for ppl that track their cars.

a tray back ute in a coles carpark... dont know about ur area, but where i live that narrows it down to 500 cars in a 5km radius.

^^ Kev, not all panel beaters will do a proper job either. I took my previous car to a reputable panel beater NOR and they not only did a sh!t @ss job that was really uneven on the inside, all the paint cracked and they tried to cover it with little dabs of paint. i've heard only good things about west coast wheels and Stuart@dentcraft ..so would start with those 2 options next time.

respect for actually bringing booze to the beach but not having any coz of the "uncertainty" u got much more restraint that I have that's for sure.

i had ppl trying to break into my car once at work. a collegue saw them and alerted me but by the time i ran out, they were spooked and drove off. police were called and the building owners provided camera footage. End results....sweet F*** All done by the coppers. Was told that it was "common" and unless something was actually stolen, wouldn't have much of a case. Feel for you, but I think if ur insurance access doesn't prohibit...then u might as well claim it under ur own policy

mate of mine had someone back a towball and left a hole in the bumper of his 911. Cost about $800 to pop, fill the hole and respray entire bumper ...and that's perth prices. I reckon ur's will come out cheaper. sorry to hear bout the mishap ...bummer when that happens.

also, did they do a full flush or just drain and top-up? ...full flush usually takes around 9-10liters of j-matic

when was ur last g/box oil change done?

mine's still in j4panese and the only thing I've figured out is how to get the green leaf and do a reset

glad i read this post. was contemplating getting a pair of bride seats but being vertically challanged....would have put me at eye level with the gauge cluster lol

car is currently sitting on 76kays couple of months back the window failed to go back up after opening the driver side door...realised coz there was wind noise when driving...only happened the once tho so knock on wood. single click on rear axle when going to D from R, heard its a common problem but requires rear driveshaft to be removed, greased and rotated...cbf coz i'm not really a DIY person other than that it drives superb

it's not about the hp loss....but our cars are heavy and well ..slow even but the minute it retards timing, u can feel it bog down on launches. anyway i'm glad i tried this and know for a fact that my particular car doesn't like the low ron diet.

i've just gone from 18 to 19 and all i can say is it's firmer but not harsh at all.i think the lower profile sidewall has less flex so cornering feels much better on 19

ok well i tried on 91 fuel today and i can say that the car feels a lot faster ....NOT my car felt as sluggish as a snail, i think that the ecu was trying to compensate for the lower ron by retarding the timing. True that it will not blow up ur engine...in fact unless ur running very2 lean..i doubt that this will happen, but the ecu will definitely retard the timing to compensate ...therefore maybe giving the impression of better fuel economy. seriously if i was overly concerned with fuel economy, i would much rather do an lpg conversion than run 91ron permanently. besides 98ron here is the equivalent of pulp in j4pan.

if you must run spacers, just get hubcentric bolt on ones. Don't risk flimsy "universal fit" floating spacers on the off-chance that they may work fine, coz the consequences otherwise can be quite devastating not to mention illegal.

glad it all worked out for u in the end mate. But I do hear your pain about being scammed/duped into handing over money and never receiving the goods. What I would like to propose to the moderators (from experience on the g35driver.com forums) is that on each ad placed in the "for sale" forum that it is mandatory to place a picture of the item with a placard displaying the forum members user-id and current date. Doesn't have to be anything fancy, but something in whiteboard marker on an A4 placed next to the item and a photo taken so it clearly shows both the item and seller details. That way ppl can't grab pictures over the internet and claim to possess the items for sale. Sure they will be ppl saying well you can photoshop the details on the photo...but its more a deterent to scammers