fcruz3r

power cutting out doesn't sound like a transmission problem...hv u taken ur car to nissan to get a diagnostic check for possible fault codes? i always wait till i get to a complete stop ( at traffic lights) before switching between auto and manual mode...i thought everyone did the same....apparently not ...lol

was at JPC yesterday. they had at least 8 bride seats available...could use a good steam clear but otherwise looked ok... go get them and turn ur car into a genuine bridezilla oh and -100 on china copies

since he had the rotors out...wud have been a good idea then to get him to pull the rear axles and grease the cv ... moot point now that you've already got ur car back

if its a single click when reversing...then its the rear axle ...needs to be greased and rotated otherwise if its a series of clicking noises...my guess would be brakes or wheel bearing

still available?

hey Chris, is there an aux power wire that I can tap in to near the rear view mirror?? (thinking the map lights ), plan on hardwiring my valentine 1 detector but dont want to run wires all the way across the a pillar to the fuse box. sorry bout the thread hijack guys.

different issue with a manual trans ...i think it has something to do with a throw out bearing or something like that

yea...i love the stretch + poke look.

did u have to roll ur rear guards with those fitment and offset?

dont mean to hijack this thread, but does the standard non-bose headunit have pre-amp outputs or do I need to splice the wires to install rca adapters if I want to have an aftermarket amp??

are u replacing just a pair or all 4?? whatever u get, id suggest going back to 225/45 and 245/45 18" just to get the correct ratio that ur car computer is going to be happy with.

did they give u the old pedal drum back??? ...if so, maybe u can post a pic of if for the masses of us that dont know what it looks like

it's probably more the noise factor...i dont think aftermarket mufflers let out any more pollutants than the standard muffler....decat'ing is another matter

if you havent changed brake pads since the car rolled off the ship..then it might just be a dodgy repair shop in japan who replaced pads with used ones...i've seen imports before with different brand brake pads left and right. just bleed and replace fluids and monitor ur brakes to make sure they arnt sticking....u can usually know if one side wheel is significantly hotter than the other...or gives the distinctive burnt brake pad smell

sometimes the pistons on the calipers develop rust due to moisture in the brake fluid, if the corrosion is bad it may cause the pistons to seize and wear the pads out faster. get your brakes serviced and make sure the pistons arn't stuck...otherwise you may need new calipers or possibly change the pistons and seals.

pretty sure it's the same 5w30 as the vq35 strange that nissan will fill 15w40 coz I'm sure the nissan oils are 7.5w30

yea and I've seen ur car a couple of times at karrinyup and waited in my car for you to come out so I could give u the thumbs up...lol nah, i nod at any skyline with the SAUWA sticker...unless they're being a total cun* on the road

10.5km/l ...impressive

take a cement pill and harden up mate just put some ratsack or a pile of slug pellets out and let the cat eat it ...apparently they love that stuff LOL ...im joking ...dont do it!!

get a bb gun...lol j/k btw, i've got the same problem with my neighbours cat and it leaves paw marks and scratches esp when i've just waxed the car

there's like 15000 skylines here in WA and they're as common as camry ...i only nod or wave to skylines with the SAUWA stickers now.

sent it back to the mechanic to re-adjust the tension...so far I've got no more squealing so i guess my last belts only needed retensioning...went a bit overkill getting new belts but at least i dont have to worry about it again for a while. oh and I got the similar story about the belts stretching and it being quite common that they need to re-adjust after a day or 2.

you shouldn't need to accelerate hard from reverse to D anyway. and never rev the car hard after it's been sitting for a while. just take it easy...if it drives fine when warmed up then dont worry about it.

no cause of alarm then. if you can't hear it from inside then it's just injector pulsing i can't hear the injectors over the normal engine idle on my car even with the bonnet open and standing a meter away don't use any oil additive that suppose to reduce valve chatter...it will thicken ur oil and cause sluggish performance. injector cleaners are fine....but i've used them a couple of times and had no real effect on engine performance or fuel consumption...kind of think its more a placebo effect as for the rattle, that's specific for manuals only..even then not all manuals drives complain of that issue. ...auto boxes dont have that rattle.

im hoping it's just re-adjustment of the belt and not the tensioner/idler pulley or worse the aircon compressor or alternator.