Nacho Vidal

thanks sydneykid, that does help. I was considering the auto cooler!

www.advan.co.nz does this help? There are no wheels listed under products, but they might be able to help you out.

yeah 31 wont happen... I do think that if your car is absolutely immaculate that you could get up to 26k. Given its a late model 33. That said, for 25k ive seen series 2's with front mounts, suspension, exhaust etc... But you never know, there might always be someone that will pay you 26k. Someone who doesnt know a whole lot about skylines though, and hey, there are plenty of people who dont have a clue, so you might get lucky. Best thing to do if you want top dollar is advertise it high, you can always come down.

ill check it out steve, i heard this from a guy who works at auto barn. ill pm you the details once i speak to him and confirm.

Yeah, it really only matters what YOU like seeing as its your car! If we all liked the same kit, our cars would all be the same personally though i like the std GTR kits, because of the clean smooth lines, and uncluttered look. On the other hand a 400R kit looks tuff if done properly, ie ideally with some nice big wheels and low suspension. As its an aggressive looking kit, it needs the whole treatment to pull it off i think. Depends what you want your car to look like. Racer, sleeper, drifter, GTR!? etc...

Tony, love your work too! -Why do the wheels arches look all notchy in the picture? what suspension are you running to get your ride hieght? YnVmE4, personally dont like the bomex front bar, mostly coz it uses the factory indicator lights, and the smaller round GTR blinkers look better on a larger bar, i reckon!

thanks guys, yeah it would make sense if the rating is for 1bar. A mate is about to fit a 2530 to his 32gtst. Once its tuned ill post some numbers, should be interesting.

Hi guys, as the thread suggests, im looking at adding these. Anyone changed to a lightened flywheel? Was there much difference, and is it worth the 600 or so bucks? Also the oil cooler, Im keen on relocating the filter at the same time, as you know they suck to change! Just wondering how much a full kit would cost (adapter mounts, fittings, piping and the cooler itself)- Ive seen them for 680$ but this still seems quite pricey to me, considering when you look at all the components, it doesnt look like a lot! Has anyone added one of these and noticed a difference in oil/engine temp when driving hard? I understand an oil cooler is not really a necessity for street use, but its a good piece of mind mod for those long high rpm hill drives! Thanks all, NACHO

Is this group buy still going? If so im interested!

Can someone settle this? Say for example an HKS GT2530 turbo. HKS themselves rate this as a 300hp turbo, yet these turbos (singly on a RB25) can make at least 225kw(300hp) AT THE WHEELS, which means the engine is making closer to the 400hp mark. Also i read somewhere on the forums someone SWEARING that a std RB25 turbo will not, and cannot make more than 300hp. Well this obviously cant be true, as heaps of people with std turbos -including myself-are putting out just over 200kw at the wheels at 12-14psi with tuning, which is somewhere around 350-380hp at the engine. Cheers, NACHO.

SLY33 you are spot on. Warpspeed, Nissan set the std management to run rich to stave off detonation (this has been covered in many an HPI mag). This is not too evident when the cars are stock, but add an exhaust and FMIC, and rich they run. When a programmable ECU is tuned, the extra power is made by leaning out the mixtures, which brings the detonation threshold closer, which is why its up to the tuner be conservative enough so that detonation wont occur, whilst getting the most "safe" power. Power gained typically from a 33 with the usual mods and 12poundish boost, is around 25-30kw at the wheels. And there you have it, NACHO.

Obviously you want something fully synthetic- I always use mobil 1, but hear that the top end Motul stuff (6100 or higher, like 300V?) is also very good. People always complain that its too expensive when doing frequent oil changes, and that you can use cheaper oil because of the fact that its changed frequently (which does sound logical). But its your engine, and the oil you put in it is all its got, why not give it the best Also i suppose it depends how you drive it. If you redline it all the time, definitly go a good oil like the mobil. If you just cruise/potter it around i dont suppose it would really matter! While on the topic of oil, can someone explain WHY turbo engines need synthetic oil!? Cheers, NACHO

JE Forged pistons $2250 set of 6, from unique auto sports. These are said to be killer. Upgrade Rods : linished, crack tested, and short peened conrods. Vast increase in strength over factory. $110 each exchange. http://www.uniqueautosports.com.au/

Just wondering if anyone has actually needed to rebuild an RB25DET engine (for street use). What i want to know is how much would it cost to get someone to do a "freshen up" ie pull down engine, inspect, and rebuild. Im curious as the kms on most imports are sketchy to say the least, and with everyone constantly modifying to get more and more power, where is the line for these standard engines? Im also aware that low km used engines can be picked up from 3grand right? Would this be a better and simpler option than a rebuild? thanks all, NACHO.

docile, thats good advice, especially about the driving experience. I hate to think how many P-plated turbo cars have been put into trees etc. We all remember being 18, we wanted it all then and there! Real tough decision ShtyleZ, especially if your a car buff, im sure we all feel for you! Personally if it were me in your situation, id just get the car without insurance. No its not the smart way to do it, and if you have a heavy foot, it could set you back a LONG WAY if you damage someone elses car/property! I risked it when i was 18, and i crashed the first 2 of my cars (V8 toranas though, which back then they were the shit, imports were little known!), just lucky i hit a stop sign and not a car (had to pay for the sign though!) good luck dude. Good things come to those who wait! (although ive never been able to do that )

PigB8, i agree fully. Have also driven a friends 911 tiptronic, and yeah, boring. I think the whole tiptronic idea is crap personally. Its just a different way of shifting an auto box, and from driving the porsche, the gear selectors on the steering wheel may as well not be there! Id prefer to shift an auto box Via its shifter anyway! I hear a lot of people talking about tiptronic systems as if they are some type of sequential shifting manual box, when in fact they are still the same old slushbox! BUT if theres serious power available then there is fun to be had. Other than that, unless you do mainly city driving and never go for a thrash through the twisties, just get a manual. Skylines are sports cars, get a manual and get the most out of the car. My 2c

hi guys. firstly its not a "real" plug and play ECU, as it needs an adapter board to mate up to the nissan plug. The Apex FC is a real plug and play, and even mounts perfectly in the place of the factory comp. SLY33 mentioned the fuel economy. This is because the microtech doesnt use the accurate AFM, and instead uses a MAP sensor, but even more so, the microtech lacks the all important "CLOSED LOOP" function that the FC has, which is why it suffers poorer fuel economy during normal driving. Microtech's falling out of tune; ive also heard this, but i cant explain it either, nor have i even heard suggestions as to why some of them do this! I know quite a few people using microtech ECU's, some with the LT12's, others earlier models. Some love them, and others don't and have gotten rid of them! I have never heard of anyone not liking an FC and wanting to change. Gold Rays, the FC is probably the MOST compatible computer for your car, as APEX make their ECU's "model specific". So if you got one it would work only for your r33 GTS-t(and work extremely well), and no other model car! Availability of FC's for 33 GTSt's is pretty good, and buying second hand with controller is very popular at the moment (priced from 1300+ with controller, this is even cheaper than an LT12 with controller) I havent heard of these second hand units ever failing, and besides, its pretty safe buying, as there is nothing in the ECU that really wears out. They are even easier to find for GTR's. Very hard to find for 32gtst i'm told. Hope this helps, NACHO.