ShiftyR31

Unfortunatly your story is an all to common accurance. Is yours a digital or analog dash. Anaglod dash - make sure speedo cable is plugged in properly and not loose. May need a new speedo cable to wear.

well i was hoping on getting around 250kw out of the car. seems like this number is slowly getting out of my reach. With a larger turbo would this be obtainable. Sorry im a newb to the turbo scene. Ive had v8s in the past so excuse my ignorance to the issue.

So they stock turbo can shit itself at anything above 10psi. Hmmm any idea on what turbo i should run without changing the internals. Something that can run around 1 bar safely.

this was grabbed in google with about 10 seconds of searching

A number of people have asked "What is a LEAK DOWN test?" and "Can I do it myself?". First, let me explain the concept. We already use a compression test to determine an engines condiditon. the problem with this test is that there are too many variables. It can only be used to check engine condition by comparing cylinders to each other or a past norm. Variables such as cam profile, engine cranking speed etc, will affect the readings. A leak down tester uses air from a compressor and measures the rate at which it leaks through the engine. This is done with the engine not running and the beauty of this is that toy can find the source of the leakage by listening for the escaped air. Internal leakge is found by air bubbles in the cooling system. Tools needed are a leakdown tester, and an air compressor. The tester is available from any auto parts shop at about $60.00. Compressor should be at least 2hp and deliver 90psi. Procedure: Remove spark plugs. Set engine to TDC #1. Calibrate test gauge per the instructions. Lock engine so it can not turn. Connect hose to spark plug hole, Conect pressurized gauge to hose connection. Read leakage. If looking for coolant leaks and nothing obvious shows up, bypass gauge and connect shop air direct to cylinder. Open radiator cap before this. If coolant sprays out, you have a head problem. Do same test on rest of cylinders. Remember to set TDC of each piston for compression stroke. This test is also great for air cooled head leaks and valve problems. Note that all engines will have some leakge past the rings. I always do full pressure test when I suspect a problem. Make sure engine is secured with full pressure test. it will spin violently. With gauge connected, you can rock crankshaft to see if leakage changes. If so, this is a sign that the ring lands are wearing, new engines will also do this until the rings are seated. I know these instructions are kinda flaky, but I hope this gives some insight as to this type of test. If having a mechanic work on your vehicle, he should be familiar with the leakdown test. I would be concerned if he isn't.

Hi guys i know theres no magical formula for this question to give me an exact figure but can someone help me out at what power this should product. Remember this is going in an R31. * RB25DET * Standard Turbo * Wastegate (no bov at this stage) * R33 Front Mount Kit with stainless steel piping * Wolf V400 ECU * Larger injectors and fuel pump * RB25DET gearbox with twin plate clutch * R33 Brake upgrade * 1 piece tailshaft * Custom diff What i want answered is a few questions. * What is the standard RB25DET turbo like ? How much boost can it handle ? * Will the standard turbo be able to keep running on 1bar of boost safely and reliably * What power should this package produce

Opppps stuffed up the last post ---- forget it.

I am running the following. *RB25DET with standard turbo *

Im no tuner so dont take my word on this but ive had the same problem in my car. What happend is that its fine when tuned at certain ranges. What happened at low range when boost was just about coming on there was a dead spot and engine would cough. This was caused due to a problem called "boost flattening" where boost wasnt holding a smooth patern in the rev range required. or something like that. Well my fix was when i dropped the rb25det into the r31 i changed computers to a wolf v400 and that fixed it.

Yeah lifters could the answer. But as you said it goes away and if a lifter / lifters are shot the sound would increase with the revs. So guess it aint them, as stated earlier next check would be the thrust bearing.

try something strong like prepsol or brakkeklean by crc. that should work if its surface. if its actually bedded into the glass a cutting polish would be the best way.

big smurf blood is thick. and im sure you would be able to tell the difference.

If it was Redline heavy / light shockproof gearbox oil then there goes $100 big ones. For a 3.8l bottle its around 100 - 120.

Depends on what bleed you get from it. I get the 3.8l Smurf Blood and i used most of the bottle so i guess its a little under. I used a modified GB though so my capicity may be slightly higher. Ive just smashed box box to high heaven so ive lined myself up a standard RB25DET box and im dropping that in shortly. Im sure the standard is 1 gallon which im sure is 3.8Lt. I may be wrong but im sure a std . Diff i never touch as i blow them that often they dont get a chance to get to an oil change.

Also that fat dude big kev had a goo remover thats good. theres a couple of options you can use. * Brakkeklean by CRC will remove almost anything (good tip : this gets almost any car related stain from clothing, grease, oil and brake fluid). * Citrus Oil Spray : the cleaning power of citric acid is amazing. * Prepsol or Tryco fluid - these solvents work a treat. There ya have it. I would be trying Brakkeklean 1st.