ShiftyR31

Unfortunatly your story is an all to common accurance. Is yours a digital or analog dash. Anaglod dash - make sure speedo cable is plugged in properly and not loose. May need a new speedo cable to wear.

well i was hoping on getting around 250kw out of the car. seems like this number is slowly getting out of my reach. With a larger turbo would this be obtainable. Sorry im a newb to the turbo scene. Ive had v8s in the past so excuse my ignorance to the issue.

So they stock turbo can shit itself at anything above 10psi. Hmmm any idea on what turbo i should run without changing the internals. Something that can run around 1 bar safely.

this was grabbed in google with about 10 seconds of searching

A number of people have asked "What is a LEAK DOWN test?" and "Can I do it myself?". First, let me explain the concept. We already use a compression test to determine an engines condiditon. the problem with this test is that there are too many variables. It can only be used to check engine condition by comparing cylinders to each other or a past norm. Variables such as cam profile, engine cranking speed etc, will affect the readings. A leak down tester uses air from a compressor and measures the rate at which it leaks through the engine. This is done with the engine not running and the beauty of this is that toy can find the source of the leakage by listening for the escaped air. Internal leakge is found by air bubbles in the cooling system. Tools needed are a leakdown tester, and an air compressor. The tester is available from any auto parts shop at about $60.00. Compressor should be at least 2hp and deliver 90psi. Procedure: Remove spark plugs. Set engine to TDC #1. Calibrate test gauge per the instructions. Lock engine so it can not turn. Connect hose to spark plug hole, Conect pressurized gauge to hose connection. Read leakage. If looking for coolant leaks and nothing obvious shows up, bypass gauge and connect shop air direct to cylinder. Open radiator cap before this. If coolant sprays out, you have a head problem. Do same test on rest of cylinders. Remember to set TDC of each piston for compression stroke. This test is also great for air cooled head leaks and valve problems. Note that all engines will have some leakge past the rings. I always do full pressure test when I suspect a problem. Make sure engine is secured with full pressure test. it will spin violently. With gauge connected, you can rock crankshaft to see if leakage changes. If so, this is a sign that the ring lands are wearing, new engines will also do this until the rings are seated. I know these instructions are kinda flaky, but I hope this gives some insight as to this type of test. If having a mechanic work on your vehicle, he should be familiar with the leakdown test. I would be concerned if he isn't.

Hi guys i know theres no magical formula for this question to give me an exact figure but can someone help me out at what power this should product. Remember this is going in an R31. * RB25DET * Standard Turbo * Wastegate (no bov at this stage) * R33 Front Mount Kit with stainless steel piping * Wolf V400 ECU * Larger injectors and fuel pump * RB25DET gearbox with twin plate clutch * R33 Brake upgrade * 1 piece tailshaft * Custom diff What i want answered is a few questions. * What is the standard RB25DET turbo like ? How much boost can it handle ? * Will the standard turbo be able to keep running on 1bar of boost safely and reliably * What power should this package produce

Opppps stuffed up the last post ---- forget it.

I am running the following. *RB25DET with standard turbo *

Im no tuner so dont take my word on this but ive had the same problem in my car. What happend is that its fine when tuned at certain ranges. What happened at low range when boost was just about coming on there was a dead spot and engine would cough. This was caused due to a problem called "boost flattening" where boost wasnt holding a smooth patern in the rev range required. or something like that. Well my fix was when i dropped the rb25det into the r31 i changed computers to a wolf v400 and that fixed it.

Yeah lifters could the answer. But as you said it goes away and if a lifter / lifters are shot the sound would increase with the revs. So guess it aint them, as stated earlier next check would be the thrust bearing.

try something strong like prepsol or brakkeklean by crc. that should work if its surface. if its actually bedded into the glass a cutting polish would be the best way.

big smurf blood is thick. and im sure you would be able to tell the difference.

If it was Redline heavy / light shockproof gearbox oil then there goes $100 big ones. For a 3.8l bottle its around 100 - 120.

Depends on what bleed you get from it. I get the 3.8l Smurf Blood and i used most of the bottle so i guess its a little under. I used a modified GB though so my capicity may be slightly higher. Ive just smashed box box to high heaven so ive lined myself up a standard RB25DET box and im dropping that in shortly. Im sure the standard is 1 gallon which im sure is 3.8Lt. I may be wrong but im sure a std . Diff i never touch as i blow them that often they dont get a chance to get to an oil change.

Also that fat dude big kev had a goo remover thats good. theres a couple of options you can use. * Brakkeklean by CRC will remove almost anything (good tip : this gets almost any car related stain from clothing, grease, oil and brake fluid). * Citrus Oil Spray : the cleaning power of citric acid is amazing. * Prepsol or Tryco fluid - these solvents work a treat. There ya have it. I would be trying Brakkeklean 1st.

Then you will be fine. If you ever thinking of increasing the power of your vehical remeber to upgrade your oils to cope with the heat you will create in the box itself. remember its all moving parts down there and if it dont stay lubricated the metal on metal sound aint good to hear. You dont want your box fluid to boil and loose all viscosity and become water like.

Just remember that RB25DET gearboxes are becoming a very sought after item in australia and are also become very hard to find. Ive been searching for 3 weeks for a box and after finally finding one i can finish my build. Just remember you get what you pay for and if you take the cheap option, specially on lubricants for your motor and gearbox you can suffer an expensive lesson.

If the gearbox and diff are standard then those figures are correct. The best option for gearbox fluid would have to be Redline Shockproof Lightweight (Smurf's Blood). I think its around $100 for a 3.8Lt bottle. Thats what i will be running in my new box and sources tell me its the best out there for skyline boxes.

sounds great, looks like its going to go ahead, im going to need to have my mechanic contact you and we can organise some shipping and stuff like that. can you forward me your contact details to [email protected]. thanks mate.

how many k's has the box done. i dont want a box thats dropped a gear or needs a rebuild.

2Rismo, What price would you do just the gearbox for. If i got the pedal box as well what deal could you do. The car is currently at the proformance shop getting all this work done, we are having a hell of a time finding a gearbox for it. Well thats not true a few places have it but want you to spend 1700 for one. Im no sucker and i know what there worth. Considering i was quoted 1100 a couple of months ago. But the stupid container aint coming in until november. I would like the car to be finished as it gained quite a following over the last few months. SO let me know.

Does anyone know if this will fit easy to an RB25DET thats im putting into my R31. If its still for sale ill buy. Im in melbourne but ill arrange a courier. You want an offer how about $1500. I may have to buy a Pull to Push convertor i think. Anyways get back to me.

Hi Guys And Gals, Im in the current build up of my R31 skyline. I bought the little gem some 10 months ago for $800 and since then its been a slow and painfull build for myself. The current project consists of the follow. * RB25DET with standard turbo * Turbo has been given some lovin treatment at the engineers * Custom inlet and fuel system * R33 front mount kit * Wolf V400 Computer * RB25 turbo 5 speed gearbox ***!!!!! * 1 Piece tailshaft * Diff is a secret at this stage * R33 Brake upgrade * TEIN Adjustable suspension * Exedy race clutch There is one major floor in my buildup. I cannot find a gearbox. If anyone has a RB25 turbo gearbox please get in touch with me asap as i need this one part to finish the build. I cannot measure the distance to build the tails shaft without the gearbox.

Hi Guys And Gals, Im in the current build up of my R31 skyline. I bought the little gem some 10 months ago for $800 and since then its been a slow and painfull build for myself. The current project consists of the follow. * RB25DET with standard turbo * Turbo has been given some lovin treatment at the engineers * Custom inlet and fuel system * R33 front mount kit * Wolf V400 Computer * RB25 turbo 5 speed gearbox ***!!!!! * 1 Piece tailshaft * Diff is a secret at this stage * R33 Brake upgrade * TEIN Adjustable suspension * Exedy race clutch There is one major floor in my buildup. I cannot find a gearbox. If anyone has a RB25 turbo gearbox please get in touch with me asap as i need this one part to finish the build. I cannot measure the distance to build the tails shaft without the gearbox.