DjeMz

fkn oath thanks guys

why go through all that effort with the conversion for a rb20? go rb25 i cbf going through why, just do a search.... unless u really dont have room, go rb25

i have used a sard pod, blitz, 3a racing and now arc air box. NOTHING beats arc for response and induction noise, but i got mine for $100 from ns, dont know if i would pay 400 for a brand new one...

yeah sorry it was a second hand pump. its leaking from the drainer hole from the bottom of the pump (exact same place the old one was leaking from) keep in mind it started leaking the day i installed it, didnt even get to drive the car should i invest an extra $30 in a n1 pump, or will the 50mm aluminum rad be enough to keep the temps down?

hey all about a week ago my original water pump started leaking from the drainer hole thingy. so i went off to the wreckers and bought a new one. after the fkn hassel of taking off timing belt, harmonic balancer (took agesss to find the right HB puley remover) and all other other crap i finally changed the water pump... put my new alim rad in, flushed the engine for 20 mins and all the rest of it, topped the coolant then SAME THING STARTED leaking!! again, from the drainer hole. my question is, was it just realllly bad luck to get a dogey water pump or is there something wrong? if it is a dogey water pump, im definately going to buy a brand new one (if i knew it was going to be that much of a headache taking all that crap off i would have done it in the first place). any help would be much appreciated! thanks in advance

rb25 bkr7e 240kw 17psi melb

a friend has a brand new one i can have for nothing, so that saves me ~$100 being a full time student sucks

but if i just fill it up, how long will it last before i have to keep on resealing it again and again?

anyone? :S

so anyone want a turbosmart duel stage lol? turbo tech it is

thats the thing, sick of feathering the throttle....

oh and also i installed a ARC air box, OMG talk about response... shits all over a pod

ok, so i have a hks2535.. do i keep on adjusting my boost via the adjustable actuator (will annoy me after a while) - i know its better to keep the wategate shut for as long as possible yada yada or lower actuator to lowest + install the turbo tech i got sitting here or lower actuator to lowest + be a wanker and have a cool hi/low switch for daily driving then 'spirited' (as u sau gents call it) driving? winter is approaching, dont think i need 18psi to do wat i do, rather keep it low and give the thing a easier workload for a bit. i already have all the above parts next to me, i just started my apprenticeship so things like profec b are not an option right now as id rather make-do with the above suggestions... any ideas?

bottom end? hope not

as topic states, will it fit?

received the sway bar, thank heaps again, ill try either put it in tonight or tomorrow night. how do i ship it back... just through aus post or the same blokes that it came from?

sydney kid, you are a bloody legend, PM sent mate. if u ever come to melb, drinks are on me! the car was pretty legal ride height when i installed the bars, after it didnt fit, felt like lowering the tien hrs all the way to the bottom (well could have gone about an inch worth of turns) so at least something got done lol. tried it again with the bushes after it was on low, still same result unfortunately.

when i installed the sway bar i also put on some 18x10 +17s... so i thought it was that rubbing but i noticed it wasnt withing the next 5 sec after i stopped breaking lol. have u sorted out ur issue or do u just keep driving like that?

i cant even drive more then 5 metres without it sounding like something is realllllly wrong

it makes sense because i had to change the rear left control arm, bought one off a r32 gtst, but the gtst had some cone shaped ball joint thing that didnt fit into my hub... ended up having to hack sawing the metal cone thingy off so it was just one long bolt into the hub.

i got it from Centreline suspension, only reason i didnt buy it off you was because i needed it asap... came in the selbys box with stickers invoice ect ect do you know the right model number for front and rear r32 gtst?

hey all recently bought a selby sway bar for 32gtst. here are the specs related to problem: nismo 2way - but in a s14 diff case, had to make/get bushes made up for the 2 large bolts (just before the tail shaft) as the hole sizes are different to 32 diffs. rb25 engine + box custom tail shaft recently added rear cradle bushes set to 'overall performance' pictures tell alot: see how the stock sway bar allows much more room for the tailshaft then the selby item does sway bar rubbing tail shaft the yellow marks the sway bar left on the tailshaft bolts where the tail shaft rubs on the car floor thingy and the marks left after removal of sway bar heres my process of elimination: either the s14 diff makes the tailshaft hang higher then 32 diff casing - any ideas? or the sway bar is the wrong one - turns out its the right one BUT as u can clearly see, its to tall and to close to tail shaft or i tried putting washers on one side to try and 'push' the bar to the left allowing more space for the tail shaft - failed, the bushes in the link just compress and bring it back to its original position or it was something to do with the modification of the tail shaft to fit the rb25 box or i have no freekin idea.. took it back to the suspension shop i bought it from, they said they will have to try fit it just want the bloody thing to have less body roll any ideas would be greatly appreciated

call him n bust his balls he needs a kick up the ass i seriously need mine by next week or i want my money back, i got a leaking ca radiator in a 25, keep putting water in it every stop i make

fkn ball breakers im giving away free shit and i still cop 18954 msgs. all gone now to some dude with a trailor

cleaning out my gagrage, 16 4 stud rims i no longer need that are free to any home tyres all sizes from 15-18's... cum get em! call on 0422596518