Lachlan33

Get used to high fuel consumption. 280km is low for sure but your never going to get fantastic results. I went from a 3L v6 magna to the skyline and the magna despite being 500cc more drank SO much less fuel. Also given that you have had the car for such a short period of time, is it possible that you have just been enjoying it quite a bit, ie giving it a bit more throttle than normal, going for short cruises around the block etc? When I first got mine the whole turbo thing was awesome fun but led to driving in a way that was very harmfull to the consumption.

My daily driver is a 1989 Mazda 323 Shades. 1.6L Carby, 3 speed auto. Slowest car I have ever been in lol. However, it is comfy and light. I see it as a perfect candidate for an SR20. Its brown with brown interior. It looks slow because it is slow. But with an SR20, some decent tyres and somehow make it not FWD it would be awesome. Its like 900kg or something.

Another rider here Great fun. Still have 8 months to go before I can graduate to bike blacks so still on a ZZR250 for now. It sucked, I got my bike P's the same day I got my car blacks. So I was not a P plater for a whole 5 minutes. Still, the ol 250 is damn nimble and feels like it could give my skyline a run through the windys. Acceleration wise, the bike is fairly quick upto around 80.....above that though Ill have my skyline thanks hehe

So it runs on 5 cylinders when #4 coil is unplugged, but doesn't run at all when you plug it back in? If so, sounds like that coil might be shorting or something?

Ok looks like the PS2000 might be a winner. Assuming all goes to plan I will post a thread in the coming weeks showing the progress of my 'upgrades'

Yes, and from what I understand although he has done Many PFC's, he is very experienced in Haltech, which got me looking at them. I was just kind of curious to see if there was any known issues regarding the PS2000 and skylines that others might have come across.

Ok thanks for that. Sounds like the Haltech isn't such a bad option. Not sure if the tuner I plan on going to is familiar with Vipec/Link, I think he more does Power FC and Haltech,

Hey guys. So I am doing a bit of research in preperation for a big upgrade for my car (pending results of a compression/leak down test ) Obviously what ECU you use is important and is a fairly large part of the upgrade expense. Anyway I know every man and his dog has a Power FC, mainly because they are tried and tested and are known to work well. Which is all well and good. However they are fairly old now, are still quite expensive and are starting to get hard to come by. (Sort of anyway) I was looking at finding a PFC and chucking on a z32 afm. However, what are peoples thoughts on the Haltech Platinum Sport 2000? Suposedly plug and play, comes with a built in map sensor (so no buying a z32) Supports all sorts of funky things like Anti-lag and launch control (I am fairly sure the PFC doesn't) Overall it seems to be more advanced then the PFC. I did a search for Haltech related threads but there seems to be very little info regarding the PS2000. If the PFC is still the better option, why? Are Haltech's horrible to tune? Do they not handle skylines well or something??

If you were refering to R31Nismoid then you might want to actually check the definition of a keyboard warrior......

I doubt that would work. The turbo charger would still be fitted to the car, good luck explaining to the cops that it actually has no working parts. And anyway the car would run like a shot dog.

Good to see your trying to do the right thing and not just hope you don't get caught. I second the idea of garaging the car for a year and buying a crapbox as a daily. The amount you would spend on an NA conversion would easily get you a car that would last a year. And you would be able to work on the r33 throughout the year so its even more awesome when you are allowed to drive it.

Just to bump this thread so I don't need to make another. The update is that the non firing cylinder was related to the injector loom. I have since bought a new one and awaiting it in the mail. What I wanted to confirm however, was that the way I have done my compression check is correct. Originally I did it with the throttle closed on a dead cold engine. Since then I read you need to do it WOT and on a warm engine. I cannot currently warm the engine up, but I did test one of the cylinders again using WOT, and also smeared a small coating of oil around the rubber ring on the hose that screws into the spark plug socket. Cranked for motor for a good 5-8 seconds, got around 130psi. Will doing the test again with the engine fully warmed up result in much of a difference? Is the difference between WOT and closed throttle meant to be large? (Because it wasn't as much as I was hoping) When I get a new clutch in the coming weeks I will get the shop to perform a compression test themselves, I just want to make sure I have done it right. I guess its also possibly my guage is not very accurate but that might just be wishfull thinking.

My car was dyno'd at 217kw at the wheels with the follwing mods: Full 3" turbo back exhaust front mount Apexi safc 2 12psi boost Suspected high flowed turbo (unknown, never really at a look at it)

I went from the stock 33 cooler to a front mount and noticed no ill effects. If you ever plan to upgrade your turbo then forget the 34 sidemount and just go straight to the front mount. Do it once and do it right.

Did you disconnect your battery when taking the ECU in and out? If not that may be way the fuse went? Seems possible to me anyway. Its always a good idea to disconnect the battery when doing anything with the electronics of the car.

I think most NA's with an intercooler don't actually have the piping connected. They literally just have the cooler mounted to let everyone know their 1.6L NA 4 cylinder FWD is actually a fully hektik drift machine that you shouldn't mess with

didn't you mention in your other thread that one of the wires into the ecu actually fell out when you were putting it back in? Maybe you should check the connection on that wire, its probably pretty important

You can get kits that bolt up like the HKS GTRS. Any turbo though will most likely cause the R&R issue SK was talking about. You really do need some sort of managment.

An FMIC on an NA car won't make it go faster but it add's that cool factor so many new P platers miss by having to drive NA these days. I believe its refered to as a front mount InterFooler

I am myself looking at going to a GT3076 with a .82 housing. From what I have found through searches and the dyno results forum, this should get 400rwhp quite easily provided you have the supporting mods. Be aware though that it is generally regarded that 300rwkw is hovering around the limits of what the stock internals can reasonably take. You mention going to top feed injectors, I may be wrong but I don't think that is required. I think some 550cc injectors and an upgraded fuel pump should meet your needs. Then you just need some sort of aftermarket ECU, a decent cooler and exhaust and you are on your way. My stock clutch gave out not long after 200rwkw, I suggest upgrading that if you have not already.

in regards to it sounding like a WRX, thats the sound of a 5 cylinder straight 6. A sound I am all too used to What exactly dropped into the engine? A piece of the old spark plug? You could try lowering a small magnet into the hole maybe and have that fish the metal bit out for you? Just don't drop the magnet in!

I second that, I had a 3rd gen Magna as my first car. 3L v6 manual. With a full cat back system it sounded qutie nice, and with decent shocks and springs it could take corners OK as well. Plus FWD made it almost idiot proof to drive....I say almost because it was written off by my idiot mate one night hehe. After that I got my GTS-T. One thing I realised when I got the skyline was how pointless modding NA is. Its expensive for such little gains. Sure modding turbo's isn't cheap but at least you get some real gains from it. I advise keeping the car until your off your P's, all the while saving for a GTR.

2 bar lol. Thats like 28 psi mate. You need to be aware that you can't just buy a bigger turbo, whack it on and have instant power gains. You need to have all sorts of supporting mods, from a decent exhaust, to engine managment, different Air flow meter, fuel Injectors, etc. Instead of aiming at a particular level of boost, let us know what sort of power your looking for and people should be able to give you all sorts of info in regard to what you would need to do to get that. For example if you are looking at the 200-250 kw range then your choice of turbo is going to be very different to if you were chasing 300kw or more. And remember, 12 psi from a small turbo is not the same as 12 psi from a large turbo.

Wow they are a good price..... quite tempting actually. Not sure if I want a 3076 or a GTRS though hhmmmmm choices.....

While I have had no personal experience with KKR turbo's, I would advise against them. If your chasing mild gains a High flow would suit you fine. If you are the sort of person who 6 months down to track is going to want more, then invest your money in some decent supporting mods, then just wait till you have the money and chuck a proper turbo on there. Going cheap now might cost you more in the future if you decide you want more power down the track.