Sayajin

Humm... I wonder if that is an old one then? I spoke to Rob about it 2 days ago and he led me to believe otherwise... -Sayajin

Okay guys. So I cant afford to spend another $4-5k on my big brake kit after spending a little over $25K on my build. But I need to be able to stop. I know that they make an upgraded rotor and pad that uses the standard GTR caliper and such, I just dont know any info about it. If someone could give me some info about upgraded rotors and pads for the GTR33 that uses the stock caliper I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks a lot guys. -Sayajin

Correct. My main purpose would be for tuning. The runners are bigger on the RIPS one IE increased airflow. I dont know if it will actually make more power, I just know it flows more air. Like I said.... I am still up in the air about it, but I am seriously leaning towards getting it just to be sure.... possibly..... maybe...... ahh im not sure! -Sayajin

Well RIPS makes one that also comes with the 80mm throttle body. I am trying to decide if I want to get one or not with my new RB30. I know the RIPS one would have increased airflow and make tuning my simpler, but I dont know if it is worth the money. It costs about the same as the NISMO one.... -Sayajin

Thanks, however I would have to disagree. The topics that were covered before all spoke of upgrading in order to fix the #6 cylinder running lean issue. I am asking, besides that are there any other benefits? I mean you can easily tune with a standalone to fix a lean cylinder, so why spend $1000+ on something that can be fixed for free? There has to be some other benefit than just that? Also I have yet to hear someone say they have outflown the stock one, which is another reason for my question. From what I have read, even 800WHP applications dont have any problems with airflow in the stock manifold. Just wanna get my info straight before I start my build. Thx. btw, someone else already mentioned 1,2 dont apply to RB26, so I wont speak on those. thx. -Sayajin

Humm... no one has any idea or comments? -Sayajin

Thx for the info guys. Most of my questions were for the future however, not right now. Of course there is no need to rev 2530's to 9500RPM on an RB30. Also they will be no where near the power that I am building the RB30 to be able to handle. However I will be upgrading the turbos later and wanted to get some info for when that time comes. Thanks. -Sayajin

Hey guys. I am in the process of planning out the final few things on my build and this is one of the few things that has been making me scratch my head. I know that the upgraded intake manifold has larger runners which allow for better airflow. Thats all good and well. However it is my understanding that most people upgrade the manifold in order to fix the problem with the #6 cylinder running lean. Since the runners are larger you dont have issues with the air being caught in the manifold. Now here is my question: You can easily fix the lean #6 cylinder problem with tuning. With that said, why buy a whole new intake manifold when you can relatively easily fix the problem with the existing one? Are there any other real benefits of replacing the intake manifold in high horsepower applications? If I recall correctly there is not in a relatively mild build, however I am not sure if the same applies to high, 700+WHP, applications. Thanks a lot guys. -Sayajin

Thanks. I actually just spoke with him a bit earlier and he said the same things you did. Thanks a lot! I see an RB30 in my direct future. -Sayajin

Not at all. You have to remember the extra displacement and other supporting mods. While those figures may be correct on a RB26 they are low for an RB30. Also of course these figures are not on pump. I plan to run meth injection as well. However you may indeed be correct that my numbers are a bit high, like I said in my earlier posts, I have these sitting at home so I figure I might as well use them for a while. I plan to upgrade in the future. I have essentially decided on the RIPPS RB30. Plan to buy it next week. I will be sure to keep you guys posted. -Sayajin

Sorry to revive from the dead but this is relevant to my current build. I know initially this thread was designed for 26/30 conversions however it seems to be leaning more towards the 25/30 conversion. I am in the process of buying a RIPPS RB30 bottom and I just want to confirm what I believe I have read in the thread. The RIPPS RB30 comes with a custom sump extension as well as 4wd adapter, so I wouldnt have any issues with that. It also comes with forged pistons and rods. So the only modifications I would need to do would be: Re-Tap for RB26 head studs as they are larger Redrill the lower bell housing bolts and possibly extend lower cam cover? (not 100% sure what you mean) I do have a few questions as I dont know if they pertain just to the 25/30 or also to the 26/30. Do RB26 Nismo Motor mounts work on the RB30? Or do you need RB30 specific motor mounts? Do I need to worry about the oil squirters with forged pistons and rods? Also how about the oil and water pickup lines. Do I have to redrill holes in order to use the RB26 head? It seems to be a pretty straightforward thing to do the 26/30 conversion in a GTR, however I want to make sure I have all my ducks in a row for when my motor gets here. Thanks a lot guys. -Sayajin

Well as far as the RB30 goes it is of course just the bottom portion. I plan to use my current RB26DETT head and build my head as well. RB30 bottom is forged pistons and rods, JUN Oil pump and drive, front assembly w/ N1 water pump, custom sump extension, ROSS Dampener Pulley, and AWD adapter. On my RB26DETT head I plan to get it ported and polished, do cams, springs, valves, retainers, lifters, buckets, bearings and of course all my bolts, rods and studs. Along with the tomei metal gasket kit. When I quoted the price on the RB26 build that I initially had planned, I was quoting prices jut for block work. Wanted to compare apples to apples. The build originally consisted of: Tomei 2.8L Stroker Kit, Nismo Bearings, all my studs, Tomei metal gasket kit, Tomei Oil Baffle, and a Jun Oil pump. Essentially the same stuff for both blocks, just the RB30 crank vs a tomei 2.8l crank. The prices are very similar once you factor in the necessary machine work required in order to build my current RB26. So what do you think? I am going for a pretty significant build. Right now I am shooting for about 650-700AWHP, but that is only because I already have twin 2530's sitting at home. In the future I think I will shoot for about 850-950AWHP and call it a day. The only thing I would need to increase my power to that would be a manifold and turbos. I am building everything else to be able to handle that much power from the start. -Sayajin

It was my understanding that the AEM EMS had issues with the RB26 engine. Something about the CAS I think? If I recall correctly you have to physically cut off teeth since the EMS doesnt have the ability to process the excess number of teeth on the RB CAS? Now this may have been recently resolved as I did my research about 4months ago and decided to get the Power FC instead. Personally I love the AEM EMS, I used it in my EVO and loved it to death. However it just seemed like for the Skyline the Power FC was a better choice. Plus the fact everyone uses it, so there are many resources available to you for help. -Sayajin

Of course the above is technically true, however it really comes down to personal preference and usability. I like revs, plain and simple. Plus as I have gotten into road racing, I will have to be able to hold the revs up there for a long period of time. I didint know if the RB30 was capable of this. Truthfully its just one of my things... kinda like color or some other nonsense. Not enough of an issue to make me not do it, but still something to consider. -Sayajin

Good man! Thanks a lot for the info. I figured it would be such. Sounds relatively painless. -Sayajin

Cost and availability? -Sayajin

Humm.. Well as far as the revs portion goes, I initally thought the max you could rev the RB30 to was significantly less then 8000RPM. At 8K I am just fine with it. Also I am not referring to a stock RB30, it would be fully built with forged internals except for the crank. I plan on getting a Dampner Pulley for the damned harmonic imbalance. A 1500HP Ross one as a matter of fact. As far as price goes, believe it or not for me they are about the same price. A fully built RB30 will cost me about 11K USD while a fully built and stroked RB26DETT will cost me about 9K or so. Then factor in the associated machining costs with the RB26 and its about even. I would essentially be looking at the same labor costs for both of them aside from the machine work. I plan to throw my RB26DETT head on there fully built. Springs, retainers, bolts, cams, valve guides, lifters, buckets ect. I just personally cant see any reason why not to go RB30 for the same price. So it appears that the safe RPM to rev an RB30 to consistently is about 7500RPM or so? Maybe 8K on a fully built one? As an aside, right now I have new twin 2530 turbos sitting at home for a build I had previously planned. I want to run those on the RB30 for now until I decide to upgrade to a single in the future. I have to do a bit more research concerning running twins on the RB30. I am not sure if the stock RB26 exhaust manifold will bolt onto the RB30. (I am sure someone on here knows however). That along with running a Power FC D-Jetro on the RB30 are the only questions I believe I have. I currently have the Power FC D-Jetro for my R33 RB26DETT and want to run it on my RB30 and am wondering what modifications are required in order to do so. I think I have most of the other stuff down. Of course I am sure the Power FC question has been asked and answered on here so I will do a bit of research on that as well. -Sayajin

Well I am talking to Rob @ RIPPS as we speak. I plan to find out. I will be sure to relay the info. -Sayajin

Got ya... so a normal fully built RB30 is safe to rev to about 7500? -Sayajin

Well... I mean based upon what I was hearing from RIPS, what I was planning to spend to build the crap out of my RB26 and stroke it to a 2.8L is about the same as what I would spend on an RB30. That is really where my question lies. Of course I dont expect to be able to rev an RB30 to the same place as a 26. However if I can still rev to 8500 safely on the RB30, it would be worthwhile for me personally. -Sayajin

Which is what I thought as well... however per Ripps Mods, This made me do a complete double take on my build..... 8500RPM AND an RB30? Why the hell not? -Sayajin

Thanks guys. Sounds like I have what I need for my setup. So I should be alright keeping the stock fuel lines as long as I get a new fuel rail and modify that slightly correct? My next question is about sound dampening. As I said intially this will be a street driven car, I dont want to have the hum of my pump drowning out my conversation! LOL. Any suggestions on limiting the amount of sound produced from these setups? -Sayajin

Okay guys. I am in the process of getting ready to build the living crap out of my RB26 including a 2.8L Tomei Stroker Kit. I had previously considered going with an RB30 however I was under the impression that with the RB30 you lost quite a bit of revs. This was my primary reason for steering away from it as I am very rev happy. As of yesterday I was informed that my understanding was incorrect. You dont really lose much revs. You can still rev an RB30 to 9500rpm and such safely. This brings me to the reason for this thread. First let me say I am not trying to make this an RB30 vs Stroked 26 war. Also I am not asking what the RB30 is or what it does. I know these things as I have researched it. My question is much simpler then that. If the price to stroke and build and RB26 is the same as the price to buy a brand new RB30 fully built. Why the hell wouldnt you buy the RB30? I mean with all the benefits of the RB30, torque, crazy power possibilities and if you truly dont lose any revs, I dont understand any reason to not go with an RB30 over a stroked RB26 for the same price. Of course I may have a narrow minded view and that is why I wanted to ask you guys here. If it costs the same to build a stroked RB26 and for a new fully built RB30, why not buy the RB30? Thanks guys. -Sayajin

Okay. I am in a bit of a predicament. Figure the good old UK guys could help me out! Anyway, I am currently in the process of a COMPLETE engine rebuild after my motor saw fit to spin a bearing. Doing a complete upgrade of ALL internals. Anyway, my motor is being built to handle 1000+ WHP. However I am shooting for a modest 800AWHP. I have essentially worked out all of the specifics of my build with the exception of the fuel system. That part has me stumped. I need a fuel system capable of handling 800AWHP. Intially I will be looking at about 600-650AWHP until I upgrade my turbos some more, however I want to do it right the first time around. I know there are a number of different options, but I cant figure out what would work best. Obviously an in tank system is not an option. I know I will need some type of multiple pump external system but what? Any help on what the ideal fuel system to power an 800AWHP street driven GTR33 would be greatly appreciated. -Sayajin

Dont mean to thread jack, however as this is the most relevant thread. I need a fuel system to handle 600AWKW/800AWHP. Suggestions? -Sayajin