Sayajin

Humm.. well I have been reading around and it appears that the shift light is REQUIRED in order for the launch interface to work. Still seems like a great thing. I just personally feel the shift light is a bit too ricey for myself. I may have to make an exception however. That or just remove the bulb in the light. lol. Or if someone else has something better that is just as well! Thanks for the info Paul. -Sayajin

Ever used the Gizmo Paul? Now that you mention it I remember reading about it QUITE a while ago. I only ever heard of one person using it however so I am unsure on how well it works. Any first hand experience? *edit* After reading the Apexi page all I can say is WOW.... Sounds like exactly what I want. Hell it even has flat shifting! (no lift to shift). Also I read that it integrates with the shift light. Does that mean in order to get the Gizmo to work I need the shift light as well? Or just means it CAN work with it? -Sayajin

Such as what unit? Reason I ask is I am currently on the Power FC so I cant get a new stand alone just for launch control. -Sayajin

Humm... this is a bit different from what I had heard before.. So I can set the rev limit to 6500RPM, stand full on the gas and it stays at the set RPM, and builds full boost while still on the line? -Sayajin

Okay guys. I have been searching and searching and have been unable to find what I am looking for. Esentially what I want is a two step launch controller for my GTR33. I want the type that allows boost to be built at a standstill so that you come off the line with full boost. I know that the Power FC pro has a type of launch controller, however I dont believe it does what I am looking for. That plus the fact the discontinued the FC Pro. I also know that Bee-R has a rev limiter, however I believe that ALSO does not allow you to build boost on the line. So, if someone could recommend one to me it would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks. -Sayajin

Okay guys. I have been doing some searching on this as well as I have read the thread in the FAQ. I am not here to ask the benefits as I have read that already. I just want to confirm what I THINK I read. In most of the posts which I was able to search for including the FAQ, people were only changing out the exhaust side as the intake side uses a type of variable timing. However, most of these threads seem to be about an RB25DET and not the RB26DETT. I just want to make sure that the same is correct for the RB26? I am getting ready to buy cams, and there is no point in getting a full set if I can only install the damn exhaust side anyway. Thanks a lot guys. -Sayajin

Where did you see this kit? It interest me greatly. -Sayajin

Beleive it or not, I would also like to know this. I mean I know what a spun bearing is.. however I dont know what causes it. I think it is oil issues, however I am not sure. My thing is I want to locate the cause of the problem and fix that rather than just fixing the result. The cause for spinning a bearing is when the crank touches the bearing because usually there is a thin film of oil keeping it from touching and if it does touch it will probably spin it. -Sayajin

Okay. Well I am considering just buying a new N1 shortblock and porting and polishing my old head. What do you guys think? The N1 block already comes with forged internals including the crank shaft. Do you think that is a better option? or just go ahead and rebuild my old one? -Sayajin _________

Thanks monga, I will look them up. Nismoid, I dont really have a set budget. I am trying to do it as cost effectively as possible while making sure I do everything that NEEDS to be done. Of course if you do everything you can get up to $20K+. I am more asking about what is ESSENTIAL to do while it is apart for a good strong engine. Thanks. -Sayajin

I am going to go with either the Tomei, Apexi or JUN pump. I plan to do some road racing and I dont have enough faith in the N1. I will say however, my oil pressure and temperature are still perfect, even after the thrown bearing. Do you still need the restrictors if you dont get the N1 pump? -Sayajin

Hey guys. I am in the process of possibly getting ready to rebuild my RB26 in my GTR33. As I said in one of my previous threads, I have spun a bearing in it. I am trying to decide on a path and wanted to get some opinions from you guys. I figure if I am going to rebuild my engine then I might as well upgrade it at the same time to save costs in the future. I just want to make sure that I have everything as far as upgrade parts: Cams Pistons Rods Rod Bolts Timing Belt Oil Pump Water Pump Metal Gasket Kit Head Studs I am wondering if I need to get upgraded springs, retainers, valve guides, bearing cap studs, ect. I know the RB26 is rev happy by nature, and I dont know if I need to get these parts or anything additional. I know a lot of this is going to depend on my power goals for the future and what not. I dont have any extreme goals per say for the future, but I want to be ready in the event I choose too. Right now I am shooting for 600AWHP, however I am sure I will want more later. Of course I am going to machine the engine and head and what not, as well as probably port and polish the head. I am mainly asking about parts that I need. Thanks a lot guys. -Sayajin

Front Bar and Front Bumper the same thing? Sorry still trying to get down the AUS terminology. If so I am VERY interested.. Also if so does it come with the lip? -Sayajin

BTW, I also need the side skirt and the door handle with the door. Thanks guys. -Sayajin

BUMP! Need this stuff ASAP! Thanks. -Sayajin

I take it that is the same thing as a front bumper? If so PM me a price. Thanks -Sayajin

Okay guys. I need a few parts for my GTR33. I am over in the USA on the east coast. So let me know prices shipped. I need this stuff ASAP! Thanks. 1 Passanger Side Rear Quarter Panel 2. Passenger Side Door Shell 3. Passanger Side Rocker Panel (side skirt) 4. Front Bumper w/ Lip 5. Front Bumper Reinforcment Beam -Sayajin

Okay guys. I need a few parts for my GTR33. I am over in the USA on the east coast. So let me know prices shipped. I need this stuff ASAP! Thanks. 1 Passanger Side Rear Quarter Panel 2. Passenger Side Door Shell 3. Passanger Side Rocker Panel (side skirt) 4. Front Bumper w/ Lip 5. Front Bumper Reinforcment Beam -Sayajin

Okay. I keep hearing about people using their Power FC to raise the rev limit of their car in order to allow them to get more power out of their vehicle. But my question is; Isnt anything over 8k RPM out of the effective power band for 2530s anyway? I mean why lift the rev limit and risk blowing up your engine when you wont be receiving any additional power that high anyway? Of course if there is more power to be gotten out of 2530s at a higher RPM then it makes sense, but I always thought that over 8k was out of the effective power band. Anyone care to shed some light? -Sayajin

All these views and nothing to say? -Sayajin

Okay guys. I have a slight delimma and wanted to get your opinions. Currently my car is stock with the exception of a ACT twin carbon clutch, Kakimoto Catback exhaust, and an ECU flash. I have in my garage at home sitting a few goodies that I was saving for when I got the rest of my stuff necessary for my build. Twin HKS 2530's, a Power FC w/datalogit, a Greddy Profec B Spec II Boost Controller, an EGT, Wideband o2, and boost gauge and a Nismo AFPR. Well here is my delimma. As I said above I was initially planning on waiting until I had all of my stuff necessary to complete my build and then throwing all of it on at once. However I currently have someone who is trying to buy my stock turbos for a GOOD bit of money (relative of course). This would of course give me MORE money to buy MORE parts for my build. My question is this. Is it safe/a good idea to go ahead and throw on my Power FC, gauges, boost controller, and run my 2530's with my car in its otherwise close to stock form except for a catback and a clutch? Will this cause any real problems for me? Now of course I dont expect to be able to throw on my 2530's and run 1.6bar or anything. Just a decent amount that can be run safely. Also I would initially just get a decent road tune on my Power FC until I had dont more stuff with my build. I just wanted to ask if this was a decent idea before I did it. This would of course allow me to sell my stockers and make some money. Also I have an AFPR sitting at home as well. Should I throw this on to be a TEMPORARY band aid for the stock pump or injectors? Or just leave it alone till later? I know there is discussion on wither or not you need an AFPR with a build, but a situation like mine seems like the exact reason for an AFPR. To increase the fuel pressure to be a TEMPORARY band aid for stock pump and injectors. So what do you guys think? Also if it is a fine idea, how much boost can I safely run the 2530's at without blowing my stuff up? Install the AFPR or no? Thanks a lot guys. Sorry if the question seems stupid. Personally I would say go for it as long as you dont turn the boost up too much, however I have heard conflicting things and want to be sure. Thx. -Sayajin

Well the reason it couldnt be repaired it seems is not only the nail. There also appears to be a bubble in the side of the tire. I was told that if they patched the tire it would almost DEFINETLY blow because of the bubble. -Sayajin

Okay guys. Well unfortunately the other day I got a nail in the rear driver tire on my car and it cant be plugged. Currently I am running Bridgestone Potenza GIII 245/40/ZR18 all around. Only problem is that they never brought the GIII to the USA. So I have to go with a different tire. The Bridgestone Potenza RE750 was recommended to me as a good replacement. The issue is that the tires on my car now are damn near brand new, so I dont want to buy 4 new tires. However since they dont make the exact model I have over here in the US, I really feel more comfortable changing out both rear ones instead of just one. Since the tread pattern on the tires will be different. I do want to at least keep all 4 tires a similar brand and type however. Which is why I was going to stay with the Potenzas. Anyway, I figure since I am ordering 2 new rear tires, I might as well get something as wide as possible. I do a LOT of racing and any added traction would be great. As I said above, I am currently running 245/40/ZR18 tires on R34 V-Spec Wheels all around. I have 2 main concerns however. 1. I have read before that due to the ATTESSA system you normally want to keep your wheels the same size all around because if you dont you get bad readings. However, are they referring to actual height or width? I mean do I need to just keep 245/40 all around for now? Or can I run 245/40 on the front and then run 265/35 on the rears? 2. From what I have read, it appears that a 265/35 tire is really the widest size you can run on R34 wheels without any modifications. Is this indeed correct? If not, what is the widest size you CAN run without modification? Thanks a lot for the help guys. It is greatly appreciated. I really need to get these tires ordered today so I can get my baby back up and running. But before I did I wanted to confirm a few things to maintain optimal performance. Thanks. -Sayajin

Is the stock airbox and snorkel the same as on a GTR33? If so I will take to snorkel off of your hands! -Sayajin

PM sent on cooler! -Sayajin