R.I.P.S NZ

How did you keep the area around the water pump clear if you filled so high? Rob

I wouldn't be to sure about that there Shane

RIPS wet sump, tomei pump and restrictors. Rob

We've done the 26 itb's and plenim conversion on quite a few RB25s and its actually not very hard, just a little time consuming. I'd definatly NOT be welding the head to fill up holes and add material for new holes, your asking for trouble with lifters and cam tunnels. I can't really see the point in going to all the time and trouble unless you just want to have a go for the hell of it. By the time you sort out the manifold that has to bolt to the top of the plenim base, sort out the injectors, rail, water and air etc it definatly won't be a financially benificial excersize but I do take my hat off to you for havin a go and going about it in a different way, some of my best ideas have come after I've been told something is a waste of time or won't work. Best of luck to you, Robbie

Just to add to the discussion on standard cranks, rpm limits, power they will hold etc. Our original 240z RB30 with a totally stock block (no filler or braces) stock crank, stock mains cradle and used mains bolts, did a full season last year running reliable 8s in street trim, it was pulled down end of last season, not a mark on anything, even re-used the same rings and bearings, changed the turbo, wound it up some more, rev it to 10,000rpm at times, run to 9200-9300/1000whp at the strip and we've just run an 8.36 still untouched. This motor has had 2 oil changes only, still on its 1st set of plugs etc. Don't underestimate the strength of stock parts!!! Rob

Any info or links? Rob

Just trying to find out if Rigoli's VL has gone quicker than the 7.97? or if anyone knows of a quicker RB30 car? Rob

Lee, I'm telling you, 600bhp frpm a stock internal RB30 bottom end is so easy its not funny, we have them 5 and 6 years old making more than that and 10s in a heavy 4wd GTR from them is also no big deal, one I built and sold to a R34 GTR owner in UAE has been safely tuned to 650whp at 1.4 bar/7000rpm. The boost and the bhp (to a point, which is WAY above 600bhp) won't break it, poor setup, mapping or excessive rpm may do though. We just ran an 8.36 with a stock block and stock crank pulling nearly 10,000rpm, don't under estimate how good stock parts can be and don't let anyone tell you a RB30 "doesn't rev" its just rubbish. Rob

87mm bore with stock stroke is only 3032cc, your far better to keep the bore as thick as possible and if you want a RB31 or bigger go with a stroker crank with custom pistons and rods etc. Not worth the trouble/expense unless your after something different and even more torque than a 30. A well built 30 is usually plenty in any case. Rob

Awesome effort, very well done!!! What fuel and how much boost was chucked at it to pull 930wkw?? Also, big well done to the RH9 R34, has it run a 9 at the strip yet? Rob

Ok, so we have a guy with a partly stripped out R34 with lexan windows who made a bit of power about 4 years ago and presumed he'd be in the 9s with ease, hence the plate, and he's yet to do a single 9 but with slicks he has run pretty good mph?? Anyone know what mph it has done and if there is a full weight 34 running quiker than 9.7? Rob

Very strange how quicker cars usually run higher mph though? I've set PB time and mph on the same run a few times but tbh they are usually both a result of a slower 60ft. I'm wondering if the slower 60ft runs are more settled and your able to get power down smoother than maybe a leap off the line that possibly upsets the car? Rob

Great, and best of luck to him but what MPH has it run so far? And surely you arn't calling it RH9 if it hasn't even done a 9??? (an equally harmless windup) Rob

I've had a car come here with over 700whp and the owner couldn't get it even into the 13s it was soooooo laggy and low on torque off the line. We added a 75hp NOS kit to give it some response and torque, checked the tune/power etc on the dyno and it was just over 550wkw, with shit tyres and a real bad 60ft I drove it to 10s first time out. You "may" have your 550wkw at some point but if its laggy as hell you may not be able to do much better than you are now. If you get some good tyres on it you might find you'll bog due to lack of torque. Good luck mate and if all else fails get some squeeze on it. Rob

Anyone know what power its made and what the MPH was? Was it run at full weight and in full street trim? Anyone know of a full weight 34 running quicker than 9.7? Thanks Rob

MPH verses weight is the easiest and best way to get a pretty acurate guage the vehicles WHP. If you can run X amount of MPH and your car weighs X amount, you must have at least a certain amount of whp to do it. When we ran 162mph on street tyres in street trim, the power required to do so matched our dyno numbers within a few whp but in general I don't take much notice of dyno numbers as MPH doesn't lie. Rob

Congrats mark, great run. I also hope you give HT a hurry up, would be great to see you both chip away at sub 7.50s. One question if you don't mind as its been discussed on another forum and I'd be interested to see what you have to say on the matter. Have you found that you regularly get higher MPH when your 60ft times have been slower than ideal ,or if you've had a bit of a bogged or wheelspin launch, do you find that on a good 60ft run your ET AND MPH are better? Its been put forward that its very common to run higher than normal MPH when the 60ft has been slow and that when your 60ft and ET are real good, your MPH will be lower. I'd be very interested to hear if you have found anything "funny" going on in this department. Anyone else who has had experience with this feel free to comment. Regards Rob

Lots :-) Rob

We've already finished the worlds first genuine RB33 (ie actually slightly over 3300cc) and it was not quite as simple as we first thought it would be, we have twin 3037s and it will be shipped to Ireland for install in a R33 GTR shortly. I can also vouch for stock RB30 cranks to 9000rpm 1000+hp, and stock RB30, pistons and rods to 8000rpm and over 500rwkw in a track car without problems, although I usually tell my customers 7200rpm, 1.5 bar 400rwkw. Rob

The fact that you can easily start burnouts from a standstill in 4th gear and lay rubber for ages up the road with ease?

You 'could' tap the block to 12mm but from experience I can tell you it its perfectly fine to run 11mm RB25 head studs with a 26 head. I've done alot of miles and drags with a best of 8.71 @ 162 with 11mm studs, over 1000hp, never had a problem. Rob

I can help, check www.ripsracing.com in the prducts section for pix, e-mail me if you need any more info, Rob

We regularly run stock gaskets to 25 psi and chuck 125hp of nos at them and we've never had one fail. Rather than worry about the gasket, get good mapping and you should be fine.

Just use 11mm studs to hold down the RB26 head, no mods required. Rob

Just so we are clear, is he saying it was 1002whp or 1002bhp? quite a big difference. Personally I think a dyno is really only for a comparison to check changes made have made an improvement, absolute figures usually can't be measured that acuratly. If you measure say 500whp, make a change and run it up under the same conditions and get 550whp you know you have 10% more than you had but probably can't give too much weight to the actual whp figure unless you back it up with mph V weight at the strip. Mph V weight is indisputable and there's no way round needing a certain amount of power to get a certain result, you'd be surprised how many guys think, or have been told, they have big whp but don't even get close to backing it up with the correct mph at the strip. Rob