GODTHRILA

Hi Guys n Gals, As per the topic, I urgently need to source a R32 GTR brake master cylinder... specifically part# 4601005U00 as there were aparently a few different options regarding bms when the 32's came out... the "05U00" is stamped on the front. None in Australia (Nissan) and cars booked in on Friday... last minute I know but help a poor bastard out will ya! Thanks Scotty

baby sitter is organised so me and dooona will be there... Dan Brady's for all!!!

Your welcome huni!

You must of mis-understood what Paul ment... he is a spanner, and he will lend you a hand. He doesn't own anything... it's all the wifes now!

Suzuki Mightyboy Japanese Brochure FTW!!! You gotta love the "CHAMP" weight lifter guy

same if not better fuel economy, can fit more in it, dun get wet when it rains... mightyboy wins hands down!!! if he still wants a bike... get a 50cc thumpa and it will probably fit in the mightyboy tray!!! brads bike

Thanks for the tip James but there is no need for any additional fuses... there is already a factory headlight fuse for both drivers side and passenger side in the engine bay, and so long as the job is carried out properly (i.e. all connections securely soldered and no bare wires) there shouldn't be any wires sparking and burning. Using high current relays and cable is also a good preventative measure... the relays I used are rated at 40amp when the factory fuse is only 15amp per side. I wouldn't recommend simply servicing the switch assembly. Doing this is only treating the obvious problem, it's not solving where the issue is originating from (too much current). If anyone is going to take the time to pull their switch apart... do yourself a favour and wire up the relays at the same time... it will mean that it is the only time you will need to repair the switch.

As promised, here is the basic details of how I put an end to my head light problems: 1) Removed trim pannels to gain access to dash cluster surround 2) Unplug wires and remove switch assembly (the switch knob will pull off, and a couple of tiny screws hold the switch in place) 3) Carefully seperate the switch assembly and clean the metal contacts 4) Repair the spring loaded plastic contact selectors. The springs on the outside 2 selectors (left and right low beam) seemed to be suffering, so rather than adjust the spring I rased the seat of the spring by adding a small piece of hard plastic (offcut from a cable tie). The middle selector (park lights) was fine, probably due to less current flow, so I left this. 5) Re-assemble switch and test 6) Using a test light I worked out the which wires are for what. Being a switch, there is a input and an output (see below) Ground - Black/Double Grey Dot Drivers Side Input - Red/White Stripe/Grey Dot Drivers Side Output - Orange/Black Stripe/Grey Dot Passenger Side Input - Red/Grey Dot Passenger Side Output - Orange/Blue Stripe/Grey Dot Park Light Input - Green/Red Stripe/Grey Dot Park Light Output - Red/Blue Stripe/Grey Dot 7) Cut plug and prepair the loom side and plug side to be wired to the relay set-up. 8) Wire up as per diagram but use 1 relay for drivers side and 1 for passengers side (not low beam/high beam as per diagram) 9) Test the modification has worked and the head lights and park lights are all working and the relays are "clicking" 10) Neaten everything up, there should be plenty of space along the factory wiring loom to secure the extra wires and relays to 11) Re-assemble the dash cluster and trim pannels Dash cluster with switch removed Black cable tie off cuts in the 2 outer contact selector spring seats Contact selectors all level now with good spring tension Plug cut away from loom Relays wired into factory loom and plug Wiring diagram (Use as drivers side and passenger side, not low beam high beam) Parts and tools you will need: 2x Relays (I used these from Altronics) 1-1.5m of high current cable (I used this from Altronics) electrical tape (a small amount of heat-shrink is also usefull) solder soldering iron phillips head screwdriver (fat head #2 and thin head #1) small flat blade screwdriver (watchmakers flat head or similar) testlight (or multi-meter) cutters toothbrush (or something to clean the switch contacts) contact cleaner (or some kind of alchol cleaner) I hope this is easy enough to follow... if it's not, show it to your auto sparky if your headlights ever start to play up and ask them to fix it... hardly any parts and only a few hours work so it shouldn't cost an arm and a leg either. Now that I have "enlightened" you (very bad joke but had to throw it in there)... go fourth and brighten up your nightlife (the bad jokes continue). Scotty

The pic with the wheels fitted to the 32 GTR... are the spacers being used there or is that just with the rims? Do you have individual pics of each rim... any gutter rash on any of them?

Thanks for the input guys... a little more searching found that the light circuits definately DON'T use relays so the full current for low and high beams is running through the swtich... bad news. Changing or fixing the switch is only a partial fix... the current will still flow through the switch and so will burn out what ever replacement you use. The only sure way to fix the problem is to remove the current from the switch by using relays. I have attached a circuit diagram I found on the forums so its just a few wires and 2 relays. I am going to rig this up over the next few days and probably fit it into the car over this weekend... I'll try and take some good pictures and let everyone know what wires should go where... I would recommend everyone to make this mod before your lights play up, as it is inevitable that it will happen to all these switchs... unless you only drive during the day?

Thanks for the input guys... a little more searching found that the light circuits definately DON'T use relays so the full current for low and high beams is running through the swtich... bad news. Changing or fixing the switch is only a partial fix... the current will still flow through the switch and so will burn out what ever replacement you use. The only sure way to fix the problem is to remove the current from the switch by using relays. I have attached a circuit diagram I found on the forums so its just a few wires and 2 relays. I am going to rig this up over the next few days and probably fit it into the car over this weekend... I'll try and take some good pictures and let everyone know what wires should go where... I would recommend everyone to make this mod before your lights play up, as it is inevitable that it will happen to all these switchs... unless you only drive during the day?

Nice one Ash!!!... can i put a summernats style beer carton shaker scoop on the bonnet too!?!?! The wires were traced using a multi meter by the auto sparky and 2 techs here at work for good measure... it is definately in the switch. I have also tried the "dodgy things you have done to your car thread" trick of banging it while swearing at it and throwing salt over my left shoulder... I had no joy

I could do that but I want to retain the use of the factory switch... There is already enough extra electronics and switches in the car, but thanks for the sugestion anyway.

Hi guys... I have posted this in the maintenece section... but I know people from WA are smarter and more helpful (shameless ass kissing), so please check out the link below to the full thread and help me out so I don't resort to driving with no lights on and using "the force". full thread here

Hi guys and girls, I have had dramas with my headlights cutting in and out from time to time. The car is a 32GTR and I have heard of the plug/loom and switch for the headlights to be a design problem with these cars... the wiring and plug teminals are not up to the task of the current draw needed and so they burn up a bit. Months ago the passenger side headlight (low beam) died and turned out it was the terminals on the plug that needed replacing. Since replacing these things have all been fine... BUT... now the drivers side has died (low beam) and the sparky has said that the plug terminals are all ok, it is the actuall switch that is now causing the problem... not the terminals or plug or wiring loom. Has anyone else experienced similar problems and come up with a good PERMINANT fix? My bro works at nissan in the parts department and can get me a brand new switch, but at well over $200 mates rates, I'm not that keen, and I'm also not keen on using a 2nd hand one as it's probably got the same/similar issues (or will have down the track). Help... I need somebody... help *in my best Beatles singing voice*

Standard issue laser for WA is the Ultralyte LTI2020... not that it would operate on different principals... laser is laser... just wanted to jack the thread too!!! They have been doing the "over bridge" trick since the poly opened.. I have heard of them doing it on the Kwinnana Fwy too... bastards!

rebel

The boss went to a road safety council meeting this arvo so I will ask him on Monday if anything was mentioned. With the tunnel in small concrete sections that are all the same size... it isnt hard for the cops to work out what speed any vehicle is travelling as the tunnel is monitored 24/7. With the new laws enabling anyone to show traffic police video evidence... all the tunnel security would have to do is show the cops a video of a car alledgedly speeding... the cops could determine the speed by how many sections the car is passing over a certain time frame, and then issue an infringement. This new law together with tunnel security/police co-operation, has effectively made the existing tunnel security system, a speed detection system aswell.

+1 i suppose doing a fishtail burnout is reckless but a static burnout is safe... whats the odds-on that Bloodlust is blonde?

Brendan... dont leave us hanging like that!!! I've been checking religiously for the last month and no updates!!! Nice to see that a skyline has donated a few parts to the project... keep up the good work champ... bring on CABIN

you might find that the points and fine are still to come... the $300 could be a fine for dangerous driving or something? i find it impossible to beleive that a magistrate has looked at the details of a driver speeding 50+ over the limit and issued them a fine you would expect for half that speed and no points... no way mate... no way the ticket infringment system is running around 3 months behind atm so for this to be all wraped up in just over 2 weeks... i wouldn't be counting my chickens before they hatch... not yet anyway. i'll gladly cross my fingers for you, but be on the look out for post man pat.

lets have another cruise and raise money for the owner to purchase much need mathematical supplies... or... at the very least give them a business card for a graphics place that can add. i want to see this car... i want to shake my head... i want... something to eat

Happy Birthday my fellow brookian!!! HKS kit is in the mail... its being shipped by boostys polar bear though so dont expect it anytime soon

um.... no

Brad, was it that sqirmish take off against Paul that convinced you? Sorry bout the thread jack Tom.... i'll save it buy saying "nice pictures, and where did you get the break lines? PM pls"