CeJay

RPM Lockout is at 800rpm change my Aircon step from 5.1 to 8.1 across the the board. Will see if this makes a difference. It did seem to help the idle of the car when I had the car connected.

could be the reverse lockout spring. When mine went it was like reverse didn't exist.

Okay I have a vipec plug-in ecu. Now when it was tuned it turns out that the aircon wasn't working. The compressor itself wasn't activating. Now I have since had that fixed, it was a problem with the climate control unit, and I have had an extra switch put in to activate it. Now the problem is whenever the aircon is activated the car has a tendency to stall when stopping, it appears that the ecu doesn't increase the revs in time to prevent the stall. It normally doesn't do this when the aircon is off. I presume this is due to less load on the engine. What would be the best way to fix this? Increase the idle speed? As it also tends to idle a bit low when the aircon is on.

I'll probably be in.

was too bloody tired yesterday. fell asleep

so anyone heading out?

Yeah my thoughts go out to all the FNQ people. It doesn't look good Hopefully people can stay safe.

Thanks Well im in that wonderful situation where no one wants to take responsibility for the stuffed tailshaft. While I have my suspicions looks like it would be difficult to prove anything.... I would still recommend the shops in sydney to sort any issues.

I'm going back to a stock 2 piece, should of gone to one in the first place.

Award Diffs and Gearboxes in Seven Hills Sydney and Metropolitan Driveshafts in Granville.

Drove the car back from sydney, no vibration issues, funny that... will be following this matter up with the canberra shop I took the car to, when all this bullshit began.

It's possibly an issue with the transfer case. Mine ran out of oil and cooked itself.

And im wondering how long before this will be locked?.....

Get it checked out, does it do it when you do hard acceleration from a running start?

Spotted Shells Yellow R34 at what I take it is her work this arvo.

stick with a two piece tailshaft. Nissan charges around 1200$ for a new one.

I have an r32 gts4 4 door with an rb25 in it, if I was looking for an aftermarket ecu id go the vipec,i'm running that in mine. After the issues were sorted it was good, and awd seems to work okay. I'm running Tein HA/HR's in mine, but it came like that. I'd guess they'd be the GTR ones.

Love the VQ34, sorry to hear about the shit you went through today Pat.

Well long story short it appears my tailshaft isn't bent but looks like it has been dropped on the floor, and the UV/CV joint was reassembled incorrectly thereby causing my vibration issues, its been inspected and reassembled properly. Will see how it goes once its been put back in. Not bloody happy... I do give a thumbs up to Metroplitan Driveshafts in Granville and Award diffs for sorting out this whole mess. Would recommend them to anyone.

Just wondering with people out there who have had to replace their old tailshaft. What did you replace it with? Did you go 2 piece or 1 piece? Custom or nissan? Looks like I may need to replace my 5-6 month old 1 piece tailshaft. And I wanted to see what other people have done and who they went with. Good or bad experiences. Also What type of power are people putting out? Especially with the two piece stock tailshaft. thanks

Grats on the appearance.

Well, it is looking more and more like my 5-6 month old tailshaft is bent. Turns out the builder of the tailshaft hasn't balanced it or checked it, and supposedly they have a reputation for making bad tailshafts, or tailshafts that fail after a few months. Will find out more in the next few days after a proper report is done. But a certain well known shop in sydney can get stuffed for all I care at the moment, for their complete lack of customer service. I do give the thumbs up to Award diffs and gearbox for helping progress the issue though. Would recommend them to anyone.

looks like im probably out

Have talked with the shop again. There is the correct clearance at the back of the shaft, there is the correct clearance at the front of the shaft. Shaft has been balanced. Tailshaft is now being rechecked by the shop that built the shaft. Unfortunately the shop hasn't been able to find an original shaft that will fit my car. Due to it being a 4 door GTS4. They tried a few, which didn't fit 100% correctly. I will double check with the shop re mating the shaft correctly to the diff, Which manual are you looking at? The GTR workshop manual? When I had the car it did start to do it when I put it in neutral, however not when the car was stationary. I did test various rpm's and this didn't seem to do anything. The shop is also getting my wheels checked, to ensure nothing is wrong with them. At this stage if this does not fix the issue they shop I have the car at is looking at taking the gbox apart to look at it. It could be the clutch or the flywheel, but I doubt it, as they were just replaced when first troubleshooting the car. The only other data I have is the vibration seems to get worse the warmer the car is.

I'd recommend Lonsdale Auto electrics, weird looking shop but they did good work at a reasonable price.