WRRR

Guys This seems like a dumb one but I was hoping for some advice from someone who has actually changed the side indicators on a R33 GTR. Are they able to be removed with a flat srewdriver from the outside or do you need to remove the inner guard lining to get at them from the inside? I am going to replace mine with Nismo units and there doesn't seem to be enough give in the plastic spring to allow removal. I really don't want to damage paint/guards. All help appreciated.

Mark Cheers for organising the group buy. My braided lines arrived today and look the goods. I only hope they fit which I am sure they will. Cheers Wayne

Roy Nice well thought out letter. I will be surprised if you get a reply though. I did a similar thing a while back when then did the drifting/hoons one using the old Japanese footage of the drifter coming down the hill and trying to pass it off as local. No acknowledgement to the letter and certainly no response. I wish there was some silver bullet to fix the issue but a small number of knobs who can't control their mildest whims form the vocal/stupid minority that the regulators and media focus on. Mind you having just watched a P plate Commonwhore driver light up going out of a roundabout in the main street of town with heaps of people and parked cars on the street (and a plod in a fully marked highway patrol car 2 cars behind him) it may come down to genetic marking and elimination from the species to stop these sorts of dills.

Come on Matt - bigger turbs and bigger injectors while you're at it. You know you want to!! lol How's Esperance? As djr81 says you will get some and its worth it but there is much more lurking around the corner.

Six of one half a dozen of the other. If $300 means something to you save the cash if you are sure that is how you will use the car. If you feel the urge to use the 330kw I know which way I would go. I have a full monty in mine and it is very on/off and certainly no fun in stop/start traffic but it delivers the goods when asked.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with wanting to own a GTR. Being able to and keep it running is the tough bit. Don't be surprised if people take the p..s when you go from 1000hp/kw (whatever) to won't change the exhaust for 12-18 months. Man on that schedule we'll be out of fossil fuels by the time you get ready the uber rebuild.

Pablo Put me down for a set for R33 assuming they fit GTR. Cheers

Guys A bit of a dilemna. I have a Kakimoto Hyper200 FullMega N1 (what a mouthfull) exhaust fitted to the GTR. With stock front pipes and a small cat it was loud but acceptable. Now with big pipes and cat it is very loud. Kakimoto have an inner baffle for the exhaust listed. Has anyone used one on Kak or other exhausts? Do they drop the noise down much? Do they kill off the performance? All advice appreciated before I try and get one out of J. Cheers

Been there. Get hold of a reputable transporter and get a price on shipment. Make sure its full covered road or combo covered road, container train - it will save on damage. When it gets here you will need a transport permit (~$35) to move it from the depot to where ever. Need to then go over the pits (another transport permit unless you are organised). I had mine licensed in NSW on the 3 month dealer short licence which allowed me to drive it around in WA without the hassle of permits. Took it over the pits in Bunbury basically stock [just a Kakimoto Hyper2000 FullMega N1 (gotta love the looong name) exh (which is pretty loud)]. No hassles, but it is a very clean straight car. I would suggest if it is licensed it may make the boys at the pits a bit more relaxed. A good friendly attitude and all the paperwork in order doesn't go astray. Good luck

Hey Snowman why back to std cams? I am on stds now and was looking at the 260 9.15 when a few $ spare. Am I wasting my time? (By the way I am very happy with the way the std cams run at 0.85 bar but not sure with higher boost.)

With regard the use of fog lights ("wanker" lights if incorrectly used) or other aux lighting. Stealing from DOT "Australian Design Rules relevant to this section: ADR 1 Reversing lamps. ADR 6 Direction indicator lamps. ADR 46 Head lamps. ADR 47 Reflex reflectors. ADR 48 Rear registration plate illuminating devices. ADR 49 Front & rear position (side) lamps, stop lamps & end-outline marker lamps. ADR 51 Filament globes. ADR 60 Centre high mounted stop lamps. ............... ................At front of vehicle:.................. White Main beam headlights, min 500mm and max 1400mm off ground, with min separation of 600mm; White Dipped beam headlights, min 500mm and max 1400mm off ground, min 600mm separation; White Parklights, min 500mm off ground, max 510mm inboard of vehicle side, wired to remain “on” with headlights if vehicle built after 7/71;.................... ...................Optional White or yellow fog lights, mounted no higher than the headlights wired through park lights on a separate switch, may also operate when main and/or dipped beam headlights are illuminated;................... Additional head lights as per main or dipped beam headlights.................." Reading this means that "fog" lights need to be mounted at least 500mm off the ground (counts out an awful lot of cars out there with lowered suspension and factory mounts in spoilers) and can operated with parking lights and/or your main lights. Well set up fog lights are low powered, short range lights designed to illuminate the road in front by shooting the light under the fog layer and using the reflection off the bottom of the fog layer to get better penetration/range. They normally only come on with the park lights so you minimise the glare being shot back by the fog. They are also designed to keep you moving slowly in fog not fanging at 110 plus (ie low range!). Most factory fog lights are "marketing" lights designed to impress those easily impressed. How much fog do we actually have in Aus? It aint Europe. When there is no fog and you are driving with your normal headlights WTF you need to have your fog (now read wanker) lights on as well is beyond me. They do naff all other than light up road in close that is already being lit with your headlights and create a mobile glare transmitter for everyone else driving towards you. And for those a__holes with excels and such with rear high vis fog lights - get out and have a look at how bright those f__ers are from behind. Turn em off unless there really is poor visability. On a side note - As for driving or spot lights I would suggest most wouldn't comply with 600mm min separation. As for top of bar and roof mount lights ------- well. Tirade over. BTW - that's OFF for me. lol

As said up the thread the Aus spec JA (bonnet scoop) and JD (no bonnet scoop but with LSD) Starions had the 4G63, single turbo, TB injection, pwr steer (light), AC, elec glass, leather front seats, 5 sp man, etc. For their time good strut susp with good solid wishbones, reasonable brakes, styling was a matter of opinion. From memory about 125kw std, 1240kg(?) The 4G63 was good for about 360hp before rods (?) got a bit sad. Original spare parts were exxy. They take an Astron 2.6 conversion easily. Some of the guys punted them in the production class on the track and they performed well. I pushed one around for a while with bigger turbo, aux inj, crude eng mgt, intercooler, big brakes and 16" Simmons and it was good for nearly 180rwkw and a heap of fun to drive (if a bit peaky) and there wasn't much around then (mid 80s) that would touch it. Actually miss the old girl at times. I don't know how you would go these days getting one in any reasonable condition for the $ you're talking. Hell a replacement tubo will cost you more than half that. Lots of luck though.

Roy I'm with you. Thankfully I have company cars on call and don't need to think about what I would go for if leasing/buying. Not much in the market at a realistic price that gets me too excited. If I had to choose the HSV would take some beating. Lucky I can keep my old Nissan Patrol for the camping/fishing/tackling the shopping centre carparks (and intimidating city drivers - funny how 2.5 tonne of turbo diesel that couldn't keep pace with an Excel is supposedly intimidating) and run the GTR as a weekend toy. The GTR brings lots of smiles and for the $ spent pretty fair performance but it aint no GT3 Porsche. But you can't leave them unattended for long (theft/damage) and the boys in blue love em. I'm just glad they tend to see me as a little old to be classified as a hoon. Bring on some viable affordable performance.

As far as I know the sensor is for cat overtemp. Just activates a light on the dash and you are meant to ease off before it goes kuput. If you don't want the sensor (don't know why you want to remove it unless you have a new cat with no hole for it) just unscrew it from the cat. Take the LHS front seat out and pull the sensor through the grommet and just leave it under the carpet or you can unplug it from the loom you will find behind the front seat bulkhead. You may need to fit a new grommet as it is a pita the get through.

If your lifting the whole car up jack under the front x member, put in front stands on the sill jacking points. Then jack under rear diff and place rear stands on the sill jacking points. You should get some sill protectors - bent up metal like your normal scissor jack - make sure you put locator tabs on the underside to stop them slipping on your stands, you can buy some rubber blocks with a slit cut out for the sill join (hard to find) or make up some hardwood blocks with a slit cut in them to take the sill join (that's what I did). Car has sat on stands like that for months with no ill effects. I can't understand why people would put their car on stands knowing they are going to crush the sill join without some appropriate blocks.

Grab a mirror and a good flexi light and have a good look under the intake plenum. You have a heap of pre-heat type hoses under there. Also have a good look at your heater hoses at the intake and firewall. As for replacing the welch plugs in the car some can be (if your willing to pull nearly everything off which is a pita) and some can't be (back of the head). I feel your panic (and pain). lol Cheers

Yes you can adjust the base timing at the CAS but you are just advancing or retarding in a step form. ie if you reduce the timing to stop pinging using the CAS base timing you will just start your advance curve from a lower point and it will likely run like a dog (almost assured). The ECU runs preset maps for fuel, timing etc. based on an assumed base timing point - the one they tell you to tune to in the manual.

Yup Jim's clutches are good. But don't be fooled into thinking a full monty (mines in a R33 GTR) is fun to drive around every day in traffic. Nice light clutch pedal but the bite is on or off and they don't like a slip style take off very much. Once you're rolling no issues. Shiite I still stall mine occassionally trying to take off quietly (damn it's embarrassing) - as for the other half she won't even try any more (not that I encourage her as listening to her slipping the clutch is just too much to bear and I can sence it will be a short clutch life if treated that way). But if you have a high powered car you are going to have a bitey clutch no matter which way you go if it is going to do the deed. Big advantage of Jim's full monty is at least you don't have the multi-plate rattles sitting around in neutral.

RDA/DBA - Have a look at the Group Buys the RDA deal is pretty special and looking at the RDA rotors I bought they seem as good as DBA . I would suggest if you are serious about pushing hard at Wanneroo for more than a few laps at a time you will be better off with a more race oriented pad than the DS2500. It is not that hard to change a set of pads over before hitting the track. The 2500 are a good compromise for road/some track but won't take long term punishment like you are talking about. Loss of brakes at the end of the downhill is a "puckering" experience.

Car: R33 GTR Insurance company: HBF Cost: $660 age: Same as Gazza (Well matured) driving history: Variable gender: M mods: mods- what mods post code: garage y/n: n alarm: y insured amount: $35000 market or agreed value: agreed insured in parents name? not likely alarm category: fn excess: $200 extra defensive driving course: n/a stereo covered: y wheels covered: y windscreen replacement y/n: y no claim bonus protection: y age excess: y voluntary excess: std pensioner discount: I wish (every little bit helps) specified valuables covered: y Choice of repairer: y How many quotes needed for repairs: ? covered for motorsport events: yeah right (n) pay by the month: why do they do insurance file checks: ? understanding, not JUST insurance: ? Comprehensive: y Property Injury Liability or Property Damage Coverage: y Liability coverage: y Bodily Injury Coverage : y Collision Coverage: y vehicle under finance: n been refused insurance before: n have a criminal record: n age of youngest driver: my call private or business use: private special colour paint: ? driven only on weekends: n member of a cams car club discount: n bundled with home insurance discount: n

Go have a look at auscruise (http://www.autron.com.au) as the electric ones works well. Have one on the R33 GTR with a steering wheel controller - works great.

I am assuming you want to do this for the dyno. Go to the rear RHS of the car. Behind the wheel you will find 2 pumps with 2 leads going into them from the front. disconnect the leads to deactivate the pumps. Get under the car and and near the end of the gearbox RHS of the tunnel you will see the attessa bleed nipple. Place a piece of hose over the nipple (unless you want fluid squiting everywhere) and release the pressure from the attessa clutch system - like bleeding brakes. You will lose about 100ml of fluid - retighten the nipple. You should be ready to go. You will likely notice the 4wd warning light show up - normal. When you have finished the tune reconnect the pump leads and you should be a ok. In the event you have let air back into the system you may need a minor bleed on the sytem. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=161627 This link will help with pics etc. Cheers

Allow about $100 for turbo studs and nuts (my 2860s came bare) and a good donation for your local Zen Buddist monk (or such) because you will need his calming prayers if you are to get through the replacement without a mega dummy spit. Make sure you have a good 1/4 drive socket set with flex heads and moveable head racket spanners as it will really help getting into some of the tight spots. Have fun

Hey guys Thanks for all the advice - it's much appreciated. Finally got up to the smoke and tried out what was available. Yup fixed back were pretty easy to work around but decided on a (primarilly) road car the getting in and out was going to be too tough. Some of the recliners looked great but were too snug in most cases. The Cobra Daytona was pretty close but the fabric and finish was a bit ordinary especially for the price. Decided to take the plunge and I have a set of Recaro SR3 Challengers on the way from J and will be fitted up with some low mount rails. Price difference compared to buying from here was just too great to go past. Thanks again.

Anyone?