WRRR

Chasing a R33 GTR std airbox for a project. Anyone got one lying around and want a few $ for it let me know. Cheers

As it says chasing a R33 GTR stock airbox. PM me if you have one you want to get rid of at a fair price. Cheers

If your timing belt is off you have nothing to lose in putting the adjustable cam gear on. It is literally a few bolts - about 3 minutes off and on. If you add the other bits later you can then play with cam timing on the next tune. In my opinion even with stock cams adjusting cam timing is of benefit if you are trying to maximise output/driveability.

1998 R33 GTR Stage 1 at 0.85 bar - 348hp (260kw) on 98 pump fuel GT2860-5 Adj cam gears PFC+EBC Custom 3" Dumps/top pipes Metalcat Kakimoto 3.5" Sard 700cc Stock cams, stock airbox and filter, stock AFMs Tune and tweaked inlet cam timing. Stage 2 - More to come with boost, better panel, RB20 AFMs , exh cam timing and better cold air induction

Depends what scope you and the mechanic agreed to. If you asked for supply and install of a second hand engine normally you wouldn't have warrantee on the engine unless previous agreed. His liability is to get it in to a suitable standard and get it running. If you didn't ask for the timing belt to be done - bad luck. As for the breakdown if it wasn't directly related to anything the mechanic had done and seeing it was a fuel pump (I'd bet he hadn't touched) probably bad luck. Not very good support service though so vote with your feet next time. Radiator damage - I'd argue that one, unless he told you that it may break due to age and he would take no responsibility. If he was just heavy handed bit different.

fwiw my R33 GTR went 180kw at the wheels with nothing but a 3.5" exhaust (Kakimoto N1), compliance cat, std air filter panel and stock boost (being bled off via a leaking plenum). Looking at the ECU it may have been modded though (Japanese writing engraved across the label). I'm pretty sure you'd get 200 with the mods nismoid suggested, exhaust, better cat, better panel and take out the boost restrictor. Cheers

I am pretty sure that is what I have on my GTR (can't read Japanese but looks like the pics in the catalogs - 3.5" ~ 90mm). With standard cat, dumps and top pipes it wasn't too bad. Idle note is good and just goes up from there, full throttle loud but purposeful. With big metalcat, custom 3" dumps/top pipes - Believe me you won't want to be a shrinking violet. Idle note is better, gently, gently creep around on light throttle ok, open it up and you can be heard from a long way away. Full throttle note is nasty. Quality is excellent. Hope it helps

Not sure if you have installed a remote filter unit or not but you will get the idea. Install is: E1 - from engine/filter E2 - Return to engine/filter C1 - To cooler C2 - From cooler As for E1/E2 but I would guess you would want the hot oil on the right part of the thermostat to ensure it opens so the order would matter. Have fun

Well the GTR is not too bad after all. Between 12 and 13 l/100km (BP Ultimate) mixed open road and fanging for the last 3 tank fulls. Gives a theoretical range of about 550km. Thats with over 350rwhp available to play with (and more to come).

Huh Ward's Auto to release its 10 Best Engines list. The winners for 2007 - the 13th year for the awards - are as follows: Audi AG 2L turbocharged DOHC I-4 (Audi A3) BMW AG 3L DOHC I-6 (Z4 3.0si) BMW AG 3L turbocharged DOHC I-6 (335i) DaimlerChrysler AG 3L DOHC V-6 turbodiesel (Mercedes-Benz E320 Bluetec/Jeep Grand Cherokee CRD) DaimlerChrysler AG Hemi 5.7L OHV V-8 (Chrysler 300C) Ford Motor Co. Duratec 35 3.5L DOHC V-6 (Ford Edge/Lincoln MKX) Ford Motor Co. 4.6L SOHC V-8 (Mustang GT/Mustang Shelby GT) Mazda Motor Corp. 2.3L DISI turbocharged DOHC I-4 (Mazdaspeed3) Nissan Motor Co. Ltd. 3.5L DOHC V-6 (Infiniti G35) Toyota Motor Corp. 3.5L DOHC V-6 (Lexus IS 350) Three of these - the pressurized Bimmer straight-six, Ford's Duratec, and the DCX turbodiesel - appear for the first time. Displaced from last year's list are GM's turbocharged Ecotec I-4 and HV V6, and Audi's V8 missed the cut as well. Nissan's VQ35 (above) makes its 13th appearance, and maintains its status as the only engine to appear on the list every year since the inception RB series were produced in an era when NHV was not as important. Their robust nature and ability to take much higher levels of tune without major mods has given them an enviable reputation. The VQ35 has been an aclaimed engine from inception and still rates on a world basis - but it depends who is doing the reviewing.

Bec's on the money. Find a local Skyline specialist tuner, talk to them about what you need and be prepared to pay a few $$. Been and done before and purchased sight unseen. Haven't got caught with any nasty surprises. Living with known issues but that was my call.

Hey Kane. Don't give up on it. From memory your planned mods are very similar to mine. Mines back on the road and running 350rwhp (tuned on a hungry dyno - supposedly) at only 0.85 bar (due to my cock up on the boost controller - soon to be rectified). Big

Wild thought - you said AFM (singular) looks ok. You have got 2. If one is playing up the airflow reading to the ECU will be low (averages both). Or maybe a bit of paranoia - now just go check under the bed.

Tekin - What were the adapters? Just about to install the same and was under the impression I could heat the standard rubber hose that connects to the AFM and stretch it over the new 80mm units (advice of guru SK). I know I need to adapt the air box end. Do I need a rethink? Cheers

Adjustable cam gears give you additional adjustment points that can help you get the most out of your engine setup and tune. Non adj cams are normally dialled in at zero in terms of timing. Adjustable cam gears allow you to advance and retard the cam timing (when and where the cam opens and closes the valves in relation to the crankshaft rotation) infinitely (more or less). To alter the cam timing without adjustable cams you are limited to moving the cam gear +/- 1 tooth which is coase and may alter the timing too far and lose any advantage. Adjustments in cam timing can allow you to bring desirable characteristics into your tune. ie advancing exh timing often brings in a stronger top end. Retarding inlet timing on a small cam will often bring out a bit more low/mid range torque. But it all depends on the engine, camshaft profiles and what you want to achieve. Let your tuner be the guide.

Don't give up it does fit there. I just mounted mine up there using a fabbed plate mount bolted thought one of the empty bolt holes on the engine side of the mount. I made the plate up to follow the engine mount to chassis join so it couldn't rotate with an angled piece out into the gap between diff and mount to take the filter unit. Filter sits base down so oil doesn't pour everywhere when changing and its tucked ou of the way. Just pay attention to the angle of the line coming from the original filter position. You will find you need to make the mount at a strange angle (ie not 90 degrees) to ensure the line clears the engine mount. From the filter to the cooler (thermostat) I used a 90 degree fitting to allow the line to go forward and across the cross member to the LHS. I can grab some pics on the weekend if you like as the car will likely be up on stands again so I can finish off the ducting to the cooler in the LHS wheel well.

In car fitting - aarghhh! I had enough trouble fitting my custom 3" dumps/pipes on the bench. The back nuts on the turbo exhaust flanges are a real pita to get and be sure they are all done up properly. I know a lot say they can be done in car but I'd really like to watch. With all that swearing and gyrating to reach what you need to get at it would be like watching porn. Oooh (said in a girly voice) that would most likely be gay porn - pass!

Thanks for the help so far guys. A bit of an update that may be of interest. After getting the run around from local licencing, DOTARS State, DOTARS Canberra (or whereever), back to local licencing and finally the technical division I have got an update on fixed versus reclining for GTR and other 2 door 4/5 seater vehicles. ADRs dictate that rear passengers must be able to reach the exit opening handles from the rear seat without undue obstruction. Effectively meaning that seats must be recliners with the tilt forward to remain legal on the road. Exceptions can be applied for if rear seating is removed. May mean that fixed back seats could get canaried depending upon the plods knowledge and/or attitude. I would think that long runners that allowed the seat to go all the way to the wheel that had a catch in the rear would comply. Anyone got experience with runners that allow that? ps the tech man suggested I am probably too old and/or too fat for this type of car. Damn doesn't he understand the true meaning of a real mid life crisis. I looked in the mirror one morning and decided a cute 18 yo girlfriend wasn't likely so damn it a GTR sounds nearly as good and is probably cheaper in the long run anyway (getting caught , divorce, etc). And we all know there is still a world class athlete lurging inside if only we could be bothered. LOL.

Ahh don't feel lonely. There are few of us down in the SW. Just gets really tossy on weekends when the porshe, bmw and merc brigade invade from the north. Fill up all the good roads with all that high priced s.... Good for giving the local coppers a boost in out of town revenue though.

Yup, Feared as much. "slim hipped nancy boy" I'm not - more like a gorilla - in the nicest possible way of course. What is the deal on fixed seats? I was told that for a 2 door car you needed to maintain recliners to keep in legal on the street. Something about access to the rear in case of an accident. BS or not? Anyone got any specific seats that have fitted a GTR and not required loss of consoles etc. Cheers

Guys Trying to learn from others experiences to save some time and get it right the first time. What larger seats have people used for their cars for road and club work? Any advice on best recliner (need to keep it road legal so fixed is out) to suit 50cm across the seat bottom and 60 cm shoulder width. I have tried the search and net but no-one seems to show dimensions on the seats. Being in country WA means motorsport stockists are not exactly available locally. All help appreciated. Cheers

Try http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...&hl=airbox* jlnewton was trying to sell one - $90 Cheers

Thanks guys - they looked similar in photos but not having access to a R34 GTR meant I couldn't be sure. Any idea on what one is worth second hand?

Guys, seems like a dumb question but I can't seem to find an answer via search, etc but is the standard air box on the R33 and R34 GTRs the same? If they are what is one worth second hand? I have some ideas for improving air flow and want to get a seond air box to experiment on rather than stuff up my nice clean stock unit in the car now. Thanks

Got one of Jim's Full Monty's on my GTR. Just got it going over the weekend - initial impression - nasty!!! Very short take up, clamps like a vice - just as promised. I would suggest it will take a little getting used to on the street as it is very on or off (no in between) so gentle takeoffs up hill etc could be fun. Once rolling or on the track...beautiful. I have stayed with a std weight flywheel which will help on the road. An excessively light one would be even more of a handfull getting off the mark without making it sound like the start of a grand prix. Go for it.