WRRR

Just gone through the exercise on a '98 GTR. If you are using a larger cooler there is not a lot of room in any spot. I made the fatal and expensive mistake of chosing a larger cooler and wanted to use a thermostat and did it via group buys and custom purchases. Hindsight would have had me pay the $1k or so for a complete kit from Japan that should fit where intended. Started with a Performance-Wise kit but was not totally happy with the cooler (I'm being fussy here) - the rest of the kit looks good. Got a new cooler and thermostat from one of the other SAU traders and used these bits and some adjustments and new hoses made up by my local Pirtek man that cost me $350 in addition to all the other bits. Thats just over $900 without the hours to make up the brackets and fit the damn thing. End result is pretty good though and all bits are well out of harms way. FWIW I mounted a B&M hardened cooler in the LHS wheel well. Needed to remove the plastic inner liner and make a cut out to allow air flow through from the front. Allows me to keep the brake cooling duct below the cooler and take air from beside the front indicator as well as draw air from the wheel motion out the back. Made a bracket up that used the spare holes below the air box. Mounted the oil relocator using a custom bracket off the RHS engine mount support to fit into the gap between engine and front diff so it is all tucked up out of harms way. I mounted a thermostat mid way across the front cross member on a custom bracket that fitted the holes in the cross member. Used braided rubber lines all and JIC fittings all round and also used some of that plastic spiral wrap on all the bends where the braid may rub on stuff to stop it cutting through. Used braided rubber instead of braided teflon as the teflon kinks a lot easier. Hope it helps.

Mitchy Really sorry to hear about the pride and joy (sorry K). I guess you're not chasing the PFC handcontroller any more. If you are thinking about a nice R33 GTR drop me a PM as one of the guys I work with is looking at moving on his stock '98 at a pretty fair price. Chin up, at least you're ok.

FWIW Looked at and drove a premium 6 speed manual version with the "handling kit" and Brembo's. Silver, low km, sat nav, leather, blah blah ... Nice car, looks great, handles pretty well (for an allrounder type setup), not as much room inside as you would think and does not go anywhere near as hard as it looks in standard form (although I believe a few mods and they go much better - ie look at some of the TT kits from the US) Decided to pass on it and ended up buying a GTR. Nuff said.

Thanks for that. I'll get on the blower and see if I can get some sence out of those guys. Cheers

Damn my lack of mechanical knowledge/terminology - the bucket(s) that attaches to the diff that takes the 3 bearing sets (does that make sense?). One with the large boot over it - I guess that is the inner.

Need a bit of help. I have pulled the engine out of my car and am about to put it back in and as such need to fit the front axles/Cvs. What grease for the Cv? It looks like a high temp lithium sulphide but can anyone tell me if this is right. Cheers

Please put me down for a R33 GTR bar. Cheers

Glenn Afm?? If so what type (assuming green label) and how muchy. Cheers

Ditto - bought a similar one in blue from a guy in Adelaide. Great unit but I still need to use some blocks to lift the GTR to make it easier to lift at the front. Don't scimp on the jack - I have acheap 1.5T trolley jack that wasn't up to it.

Does it include the mounting eye bolts? If so how many.

Try this. R33_Service_Manual_197.pdf

If it is happening at idle grab a can of aerostart. With the car idling and using the nozzle extension so you get a clear stream, spray each area/part in turn. If the idle increases you are in the right area. Narrow it down from there. (just in case this makes no sense aerostart is really flammable and will effectively be a fuel boost if sucked into the engine under vacuum at idle) Cheers

Gee I hope this is not part of the fairy tale - 455hp. Nah - well done. Big effort. It almost makes the pain worth it. Let's hope mine goes as well.

Water pump, timing belt and cam gears while engine in car - easy!!!!!! for me to say sitting here with my engine on the bench and those bits back on. Mind you I had issues with the harmonic balancer when I stuffed the woodruff key persuading it with a 3/4" rattle gun. Gave up on finding a new one on a weekend after 3 hours and 5 store visits later - Bugger me had to steal a second hand one from a datsun 180B. Nothing like progress.

Ha!! Now the turbo fairies will hold you to ransom as you have to get the turbos back on again. As with all reassembly just reverse the deassembly steps. You may have trouble getting past the first (last) couple of steps on your procedure. I believe the turbo fairies like a drink but then can't be bothered doing anything afterwards. Fun Fun Fun. ps I pulled the donk out of mine as my gorilla hands (and physique) just couldn't cut it with the engine in the car

I would suggest you have a serious work up of what you will need for your outcome. The dollars run up very quickly. As a guide (my current experience) here are some numbers on a basic smarten up on a GTR, without internals being touched, to get into the power/time arena you are talking about. PFC + EBC - $1350, Tomei sump baffle - $280, 700 cc Sard inj - $680, GT2860-5 Turbs - $2200, Gasket kit - $380, Hoses - $400, Adj Cam wheels - $140, oil cooler - $600, Fuel pump - $200, clutch (JB Special) - $850, pipes - $1000, Timing belt - $150. There goes +$8k not including labour and the engine has not been opened up as yet. Hope it helps

Now, now. Let's not get in nasty generalisations or I'll have to start believing all the stuff about import and skyline owners. You will allways get tossers they arn't restricted to 4WDs. I drive a GTR and a jacked up, big wheeled Nissan Patrol (among others) and there have been plenty of times I would have quite happily dropped into low range and driven over dicks and dicklesses in their little buzz boxes in response to bad behaviour/poor driving.

Yup - have deeper front lip and front brake ducts - cause they all got in the way of my oil cooler install. Damn but I needed all that practice pulling them on and off for the fun of it.

WOW!!! I'm all chubbed up now. What a great piece of work. Gongrats

Yup that Veyeron (or however its spelt) sounds plain evil in the nicest possible way. I'm with Beer Baron as I have that episode on the PC and have listened to it more than once. But for +$2M it would want to. Back to the nostalgia stuff an E49 with the triple 45DCOE Weber carbs - ahhhh! That is an induction howl. Had triple 45DCOE Webers on a 240K (go on laugh - you know you want to) and that still brings a smile to my face even now. Slurp Slurp on throttle opening then an almighty howl and induction reverb as the revs rise. Used to turn heads in surprise. And scare SLR5000 Toranas - not that I would ever have street raced. Just over 200hp at the wheels was pretty handy to in a car that only weighed just over a tonne as well.

Shiiite!!!! I can't believe the BS being shoved down this poor kids throat. A Skyline, whatever type it is, is still only a RWD (or 4WD if you have the $$) car sold to the masses. The vast majority are not much up in the performance stakes or any harder to drive than a lot of other cars out there. It aint an F1 McLaren or some such and the power to weight on most isn't anything exceptional to write home about. Of course there are exceptions and plenty of them hang on forums like this one. We may all aspire to having the 450+rwhp GTR or such like but not many get there. If you can't drive around a "round about" in the wet without hanging out the rear I suggest you need to seriously look at how you drive cause it sounds pretty shithouse to me or you have absolutely zero self control and in that case you are just an accident waiting to happen. All I hope is you don't take some other poor sucker out with you. If the guy wants to hand over his folding stuff and face the issues around insurance and upkeep - its his call. Personally I think he has sadly underestimated how much a turbo skyline can really cost to keep running as it should be, but for some there is only one way to learn (- and I hope Mum or Dad will help you out occassionally cause you will likely need it.) But that is only my opinion and unfortunately they're like assholes, everyone has got one - some just use them more. Let the kid live his dream now if he wants to. Kodak it's your call, you make it. Just try real hard not to become a statistic or show up as one of those dicks cutting up in public ruining it for the rest of the performance car crew. Nuff said. Let the flame begin!

Kane Sounds like you got the rebuild blues. Doing the same with mine. Custom 3" dumps/front pipes are the hold up. W/E 16/17 Feb should see them done (again) and the engine off the bench and back in the car. Really curious as to how the cars compare as my mods are pretty well the same - 2860-5, PFC (+EBC), pipes, 700cc inj, fuel pump, adj cam gears, sump baffle, oil cooler, JB clutch, timing belt. Same sort of target rwhp. As you have no doubt found, it all adds up really quickly. Stick with it and keep us updated. Cheers

Thanks to those who replied. Part number for those interested is 13526+C for the Front Cover Cheers Guys A bit of help if you can. I am trying to buy the crank angle sensor mount for a RB26. It is the gasket type piece that holds the three washers through which the CAS is mounted. The bit in the cam cover. Part number, anything that could help. Thanks

Found - Thanks anyway Hoping for some help. Does anyone know the part number for the crank angle sensor mounting arrangement for a RB26. A bit of heavy handedness has pushed the gasket thing/holder out of the cover plate and it looks too damaged to refit and reuse. Does anyone know where this part can be bought? All help appreciated. Thanks

Does anyone have a paint code for the red engine covers on the R34? I was goint to redo mine candy red over a gold base until I did the pricing - ouch! Cheers