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Everything posted by WRRR
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I Finally Got My C110 240k On The Road!
WRRR replied to -hgc110-'s topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Great to see that someone is willing to keep the old 240K up and running in top shape. It makes me miss my old '77 4 door even more. Triple 45 DCOE Webers, big cam, tuned headers, ..... and 196 rwhp (when I could keep it all together). Keep up the great work and enjoy the old girl. -
I think you have come across one of the new laser cameras the wallopers are testing. I believe there are two under test in WA and have been for some time.
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http://autospeed.com/cms/A_110964/article.html Have read here. I know its a Benz oiler but has some pretty trick ideas for a sequential.
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Rb26 Exhaust Manifold Is There A Front And Rear?
WRRR replied to No.96's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Just went and had a look at my spare set of manifolds and they appear the same. Dumps are definitely different front to rear. -
Today Tonight- I Sent A Email Regarding The Car Scene....
WRRR replied to Cruizer's topic in General Automotive Discussion
Are you sure this is not a last minute April Fool's joke? Shows like ACA and TT rarely bother replying and to do so in such a purile manner is almost beyond belief. If its legit push it for what its worth... if not... :laughing-smiley-014: -
Do You Still Self-maintain Your Car?
WRRR replied to dirzsignature's topic in General Automotive Discussion
Dang Don't know how you guys do it. I have a 6mx6m shed and still don't have enough storage or working room. If you can do something that imitates a Tardis I'll buy one. -
I would suggest you jump on the net and have a read of the ADRs for noise. The test procedure is very specific on where the reading should be taken, ground conditions, buildings, rev range, ... I suspect the guys you have gone to have botched one or more parameters.
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For those seeking some motorvation here is a link to a pretty mean climb I stumbled across. Keep an eye out for some of the pucker marks on the road. Sorry guys just tried the link and it won't load from SAU.
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http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Se...33-t254787.html Try here. Someone elses misfortune may be your saviour. Cheers
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Search under the full forum for sale section. $$ will depend on what for.
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I purchased my GTR from them. Do your homework, understand what you are purchasing and make sure it is all in writing and should be sweet. I even had a faulty A/C replaced prior to delivery because it was all written up that "everthing" works. Cheers
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Price Check: Rb26dett
WRRR replied to DamageInc's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Have a bit of a search. 32, 33, 34, km, what's actually gone. There are several for sale on SAU from $1700 to $5500 from no 6 gone to supposedly all ok. At a guess if the bottom end is totally u/s about $1500 or so for the head and bits because they would still need an overhaul before use. -
Dave Please put me down for a set for RB26. Let me know when you want the $. Can cough early if it helps. Cheers
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Might want to check if there is an anti drain back incorporated into the filter. Some do, some don't. Getting agricultural but the same thing happens with my dirty diesel patrol with some filters. Genuine nissan are fine and have the anti drain back. ??
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I'm sure I've seen you in some old movies. Bit hard to tell with all your clothes on though.
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Remove the fuses from the attesa motor in the rear rh guard behind the back wheel. Bleed the attesa line near the transfer case (there is a nipple there) to remove the preload. No more attesa until you put the fuses back in.
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Always thought the R33 GTR was the first "production car" to break 8 minutes with a 7.59.
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Original S3 Gtr Front Bar
WRRR replied to croat's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Any chance of pics? Front and back of the bar and lip. Cheers -
Guys Any number of them out there. Auscruise do a neat electric unit (don't have to worry about vacuum tanks etc). Got one fitted to the GTR and looks like it came from the factory. Also have have a vacuum type unit fitted to a diesel patrol - same story on fitment and they both work a treat. If you are fussy do it yourself and tap into the electonic speedo signal and avoid magnets etc on the driveshaft. Cheers
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FWIW I have a Pro78 and am not that impressed with its performance so far. With Multanovas (Ka) the warning distance can be as low as 50m even on a straight road. Worse is it seems inconsistent. Laser I don't even bother trying to detect. Mobile (K) is acceptable (but not as good as my 20yr old Q4000LR - go figure). Unit is installed high for max detection. Lucky I am a law abiding citizen.
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I have looked at water/air for both my 4wd and thought about it for the GTR. In a nut shell usually more expensivethan air/air due to the need for the cooler core, radiator, pump, tank and wiring up. Advantages are if you have limited frontal area the radiator component is not as big as an air/air intercooler, good for low speed/high torque situations where you don't nomally have good air flow for air/air intercooling, less/(no?) heat soak, can usually keep air piping short (response). Go have alook on the PWR site, they do a barrel style or there are a number of them on eBay etc. Cheers
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Mein Gott. Talk about mixing up terminology and going in circles. To try and bring some sanity to this thread and stop some poor soul getting lost I shall steal from others - "A turbocharger is an exhaust gas-driven turbine that compresses the intake air, increasing the horsepower and torque of an engine by increasing volumetric efficiency. This means that by compressing the air and increasing the density, you use a given volume of engine displacement more efficiently (volumetric efficiency). Denser air means more air atoms and more fuel atoms can be added into the engine. This makes more power." If you want a relativly simple explanation (remember this topic fills books) including temp effects, turbo design and the basic calculations behind them go here - http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/turbo/turboflow.html. It aint perfect but it is not too bad. Bumblebee - I respect the fact you are a mechanic and I am sure what you have been doing is resulting in positive outcomes. However I believe you are getting the terminology mixed up and confusing yourself and others. Have a read you might be surprised. Last comment I shall add to this thread. Sayonara.
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Thnaks guys. Result of a quiet night and trying to help someone who was asking a genuine question. These forums are only as good as the people on them and the accuracy of the information shared. SAU has been very good to me and I have learnt heaps of little tricks and saved a small forture (if you can do that with a GTR). Karma.
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Gareth I have been trying to keep it simple. There is more to it in terms of tune, cams, compressor design, etc. Try this analogy (I just wrote all the stuff below not knowing how to explain this simply and then this came to mind). You have a bouncy castle it is a fixed volume to hold the shape of the castle. It takes 1000cfm of air at 12psi to keep it inflated. To stop it overinflating and bursting it has a pressure relief valve to bleed off air if it goes over 12psi. The normal inflation method is one blower that can deliver 1000cfm @ 12psi. The blower is playing up and has reduced to 800 cfm @ 12 psi so it can't keep the castle inflated. I add another blower that can deliver 800cfm @ 12psi and have to use it in parallel with the one that is playing up (second turbo). Now I have 1600 cfm going into the castle @ 12psi. What happens? The castle sounds like a whistling kettle as the blow off valve is venting 600 cfm @ 12psi. It is still only using 1000cfm @ 12psi to stay up and forces the excess air out the relief. Think of an engine as a series of bouncy castles - @1000rpm, 2000rpm, etc Now I'll try again but it has got wordy. An engine in naturally aspirated form can be considered an air pump. If you take the fuel away and turn an engine over it will suck air into the cylinders to fill them (displacement), compress it and then pump it out the exhaust. The pistons only move so far in the cylinders so the volume that they provide at full stroke is fixed. If you then put fuel into the engine at the right amount and add air (oxygen) and ignite it the burning air/fuel will create pressure which drives down the pistons turns the crank and produces mechanical power. More power requires more fuel and more air (oxygen). This can be achieved by better fuel, more displacement or more fuel and air (this is keeping it simple) or all of the above. More fuel is relately easy, but to burn efficiently fuel needs a certain amount of oxygen. So if it is only the atmosphere and the minimal draw from the engine providing the air which contains the oxygen you have a limitation as to how much power you can generate because you can only get so much oxygen in. But if you jam more air (and hence oxygen) in by some other means with additional fuel you can get more power than NA. Hence using a compressor to provide additional air above atmospheric. A turbocharger is generally accepted as an exhaust gas driven compressor. It takes the exhaust gas and uses the energy (pressure, volume, heat) to turn a turbine which is connected via a shaft to another turbine that can spin and move air. To make it worthwhile the compressor turbine must move air faster than the engine's requirement for incoming combustion air as driven by the engine operating condition. ie it can produce the required volume at a pressure above atmospheric that tranlates to enough air mass (oxygen) to burn more fuel or we would just have a NA engine with a horible restriction in the intake path. It is a balance. If the compressor requires more energy to spin than is being provided by the exhaust gases or it is not providing above atmosheric contributions you are running naturally aspirated (NA) which is what is going on off boost in a turbo engine ie you don't need the power, so less fuel, so less air.... To make more exhaust gas you increase the output by increasing revs (ie more cylinders being filled and emptied per minute), increasing fuel (provides more capacity to generate power and exhaust gas) and if the operating characteristics of the turbo are right you provide more air mass to the engine to better use the additional fuel, make more power, etc. We see this positive air pressure to the engine as boost. This boost is the manifestation of the delivery of additional air from the turbo(s) forming up against a restriction - the engine. (It is a bit like blocking the end of a hose the pressure builds up until the mains or the pump can't provide any more or you relieve the pressure by a valve or similar). ie you can't have pressure if there is not restriction of some sort. With a turbocharger compression response is not linear with the engine requirements. A turbo takes time to build revolutions and as such air flow and then usually over delivers at high compressor speeds. As such we run pressure regulation (boost control) to not over pressure the engine and upset fuel/air etc. Over pressuring will provide more oxygen than there is fuel for normal combustion resulting in a lean mix which can result in nasty side effects. If you design and tune an engine to produce certain power and torque responses you are playing with fuel/oxygen (air mass) loads and matching the compressor characteristics to meet your requirements for the air. So if you need 30 lb/min air mass and x fuel to generate the required power and torque this might translate to 800cfm @ atmospheric compressed to 12psi to fit into the engine (forgive me I can't remember the conversions off the top of my head). Remember the engine for given rpm is a fixed volume. So in terms of the engine you have a fixed volume exposed per minute based on revs. You need to put in a certain mass of oxygen to burn the mass of fuel to produce the desired power and torque Because air is compressable we can compress atmospheric air to provide a higher oxygen mass per unit volume that we can then use in the engine. So if you have to compress 800cfm from atmospheric to 12psi to provide the required air mass (oxygen) into the engine you can do it with one or two or however many compressors. ie one that can do 800cfm from the atmoshere and compress it to say 400 cfm at double the mass (oxygen) load, or two that go from 400 cfm each to 200 each. You just have to get the combined delivery characteristics right. The reason different turbochargers are designed is they all respond differently to exhaust energy and provide different compressor responses. Engine gurus then try to match the best response and delivery to the required duty. So Nissan decided with the GTR to fit two smaller turbochargers that provided a lighter tubine configuration in the belief it would provide better response overall. Each of these turbochargers can generate well in excess of 12psi but can only compress enough air to deliver about 260hp each. Bigger twin replacements can deliver even more air mass but with a general trade off in pressure build response. A larger single on a GTR can take advantage of effectively double the exhaust flow (one turbo not two) to spin a bigger ccompressor to deliver the air mass required for the engine. Argument is the turbine assembly is bigger and supposedly heavier so takes more energy to spin resulting in different pressure characteristics. For the same power and torque outputs two turbos delivering half the volume to the required pressure each or a single providing the full volume at the same delivery pressure are doing the same job. 30 lb/min air @ 12psi is 30 lb/min @12 psi delivered by any means. I hope this helps I really do.