WRRR

If they are new they will have tags/stickers on the base with: Serial number Parts number Parts name Date of manufacture If second hand this may be gone. So for recliners: Seat back adjuster will have on the support plate (plastic) Made in West Germany RECARO R (as in the regitered trade made thingy) KEIPER RECARO GMBH & CO Remshied KBA 90349 Idealsitz SR (Identifier for the seat type in this case SR3) Not sure for fixed back. You will also find the fabrics etc are top quality. If they feel cheap or look poorly put together be careful. Hope it helps

I sense and u oh moment. If you fill via the shifter you are filling the transfer case. Drain and flush.

If you are planning on driving it around that low spring rates won't matter anyway as you are more or less on the bump stops. I gather handling is not an objective. Ever thought of bags?

I think you have allowed too much for the Nistune chip only get 311.4 killer wasps. Seriously!

For the 10 minutes it takes to change I would put a sump baffle kit in, and still over fill it for the track. Oil return is a good idea but it does take a bit more work to ensure it all fits close and doesn't foul when the donk goes back. If you are in a hurry to get it back on the road pass.

Type RX will fit the genuine Recaro SR3 into R33. Copies?? CJ Motor on Nissansilvia have got them at $250 ea delivered.

How did they test your exhaust noise? Curious because if done in accordance with the DOT standard it is very particular about exactly where to measure, surrounding conditions, etc. Be nice to do a check the way the pits do it because I am pretty sure it would be a shortcut method. Cheers

Not meaning to push anyone elses barrow but have a look here http://www.c-red.com.au/newparts/ssr/current.shtml These are a far better wheel (stronger, lighter) than the one's you are looking at for the $ or seriously think about some 2nd hand Jap wheels.

The RB26 plugs fit the RB20 (green label) and RB25 Series 1 (green label) AFMs. The RB25 Series 2 (pink label) have a different pin allocation. Cheers

Baron's got it. Follow the pics and you will be fine. (if not it can only go in one way and bolt up to the existing holes) Spend some time giving the sump a good clean out when you have the standard baffle plate out, especially the sump ears, as you will be surprised how much crap there is hanging around. Don't overdo the sealant when putting it back together either or you could end up with bits floating around the sump. Keep the mesh filter on the pickup for the same reason. Have fun.

If your old gaskets are in good condition they should be ok. I know the new ones sound expensive but it would be a pita to have to change the 2nd hand ones after the install if they leak.

Possibly a silly question but what dia is the internal path? Number sounds like the RB26 so if it is only 65-70 mm lokks like a std RB26 AFM. Cheers

Try closing up your plug gaps. Seems a bit sus if this has only started since pump and plugs and only on boost. Cheers.

Search is your friend but ....... when a RB26 ceramic exhaust wheel turbo goes it is generally spinning fast enought that it sends ceramic bits everywhere including back down the exhaust manifold and potentially into the engine through an open exhaust valve - hence everyone's warnings. The stock turbo's are known for doing this with increased boost and age. Cheers

From the lip on the bottom of the boot lid 400mm to top of blade, from lip on the bottom of the boot lid turned up section (over your taillights) to top of side support 350mm. Same to top of blade 320mm All give or take a couple of mm. Cheers

Just had a look at my GTR, my RDA rotors have the slot angling towards the rear of the car Rear \\\ Front. Hope it helps. Cheers

Bingo!!!

Not raining on your parade but have a look at some of the 4wd gear. There are any number of tyre changers/bead breakers out there - TyrePliers, R&R Bead Breaker, Tyre Jaws, etc. May save you a lot of effort if you buy or at least copy what is out there and works. Cheers

Hey Gary if you can do the springs, shocks and coil over conversion for the price quoted "price? around $1500-1700aud maybe a little less" drop me a line and I'll transfer the $ asap. Gee I hope you are Santa.

From WA DPI: Alternative road wheels Alternative road wheels are permitted under the following conditions : Rim width must not exceed the maximum rim width specified by the manufacturer by more than 25mm (1") (for passenger vehicles manufactured after 1st January 1973, the manufacturers rim width shall be taken as that specified on the tyre placard). In any event, rim width shall not exceed 177.8 mm (7") unless specified by the manufacturer as standard equipment for the vehicle in question. No increase in rim width is permitted for vehicles fitted with original equipment rims in excess of 177.8 mm (7") width. The wheel is contained completely within the body work of the vehicle which includes acceptable flares. The wheel does not foul any part of the body or suspension under all conditions of travel The vehicle handling is not impaired in any way. The tyre to rim fitment must be in accordance with the Tyre and Rim Association Manual. Rim diameters must be the same as specified by the manufacturer. The wheel must be one designed for use with the vehicle with respect to bolt pitch circle and wheel nut tapers The track must not be increased by more than 25mm (1") over the maximum specified by the manufacturer.etc. All wheels must be the same size, profile and bolt pattern. Vehicles required to comply with Australian Design Rule 24, "Tyre & Rim Selection" must continue to comply with this Design Rule (contact the Department of Transport and Regional Services for more details). The fitment of so called "plus one" and "plus two" and tyres is acceptable providing : the overall diameter of the large rims fitted with the lower profile tyres do not exceed the overall diameter all tyres and rims fitted to the vehicle are of the same size and profile with the exemption of item (f), the tyres and rims are in conformity with the requirements specified above in items (a) to (j). Reducing the wheel track less than the original manufacturers specification is not permitted, as this may reduce vehicle stability. So on your GTT - technically no on a number of fronts.

Have alok at this http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...id-t102731.html I would suggest pump it through rather than gravity feed. Cheers

2530 ~ GT2860-5

Try autosol metal polish. Old trick used it on my GTR and it took all the yellow off and brought them up really well. Cheers

Try dropping Kermit a line. On this forum in WA.

It is all in the eye of the beholder. I like the shape and presence of the R33 GTR and I don't think the shape will date badly. I was in the lucky position where I could have bought any of the GTR's and drove a lot of them to be sure but went with the R33 despite what most people say about them being boats, heavy ........ etc. If you really have a look at the specs they are a few kg heavier than the 32 - me being a big fella kills that one as I carry more kg extra than the difference between any of them. They have a faster attessa than the 32 (reportedly not as fast as the R34 but I can't tell). They have improved oil pump drives over the 32. They have better brakes than most of the 32s. Later model ones have improved syncros. They were the first production car to do the "Ring" sub 8 and do have a good racing record ..... etc. They don't have flash display of the 34 or the 6 speeder but don't have the inflated price tag either. On the road (maybe not so much the track) the longer wheelbase makes them a little less prone to pitching and makes them a little more comfortable. I think they have the longest doors of the lot and that makes them a pita in close parking spaces as the doors need to open a long way to be able to get out. As for all the GTRs they look and go better lowered a bit but the 33's really scream out for some wider offset wheels to fill the guards. I was running the std rims with 20mm bolt on spacers with 255 and that made a heap of difference. With 18x9.5 +21 (no spacers) with 245 (on car now) it looks even better. As you can probably guess I am happy - maybe only until I can work out how to get a new R35 without the boss kicking up too much of a stink (but I'd probably keep the 33 as well). As for any car that is likely to have been driven as it was intended, or even worse, find a good one and be willing to pay extra for it. In hindsite, if you are thinking of modding one I'd even suggest buying one that has most or all of the work done by someone reputable as modding a stock unit is time consuming and expensive. You get to say you did it yourself and how you wanted but at a hell of a price (am there, doing that -ouch). R33 GTR it is (for me anyway)