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Everything posted by WRRR
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In an ideal world I think you will find laminar flow will provide the lowest pressure drop for a given volume of fluid moved at a given velocity. With a car I think you will find space governs how far you can go. Remember bigger is not always better as with a forced induction engine you have the interia of the air mass you are pushing through the system to overcome. ie really big intercooler, pipe and intake volumes will increase lag time as you have to get all that mass moving. Sharp changes in direction, edges, gasket ridges,etc all promote turbulent behaviour so minimising those all helps no matter what system. ie match porting and so on. Hope this helps Cheers
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Before you go ripping verything out do yourself a favour and grab a can of aerostart or similar (as was suggested previously). Have the car idling and starting at one end (suggest the intake given your descriptions) and squirt the aerostart along the intake runners - one at a time, then underneath the plennum, back along the intake system, etc at each joint, hose or such. If you have a vac leak the engine revs will increase when it sucks in the aerostart. That vac leak will either throw all the EMS out or bleed off your boost or both. If you find the b..tard - bingo. If not your plan B is ok but don't underestimate the pain - and get theos turbs checked before you put them in. Cheers
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If Jash quoted you $2k, its $2k. Follow it up and get it in writing. I have just bought rims off him and got them at a very good price. He is willing to deal and ususally is very straight up. Cheers
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In an ideal world right at the exhaust ports is best, followed by at the turbo inlet but normally room is a bit of an issue. If you are only running one EGT sensor putting it in the dump pipe right after the turbo is fine. Just remember if you are using it to set up fuel via EGT you need to allow for the loss of temp through the turbo. Been running that way on diesels for years as a guide as to when to back off the throttle.
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There you go.
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Guy's - thanks for all the advice. Bit the bullet and went with the GT7 Hybrid. The deal negotiated was too good to go past. They are not as light as some but they aren't bad for an 18 and as they are for the street ultimate lightweight is not really required (got separate track rims). Thanks again, helpful as always.
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Thanks guys for the replies so far. Looking at a set of 18x9.5 +21 GT7 Hybrid or Type C. (Silver) Going on a dark blue GTR but trying to get away from the 5 spoke approach. Looked at some Volk RE30 but ouch exxy. Cheers
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Anyone got any first hand experience or knowledge of the SSR wheels? Are they a viable alternative lightweight forged wheel? Contemplating getting a set but no little about the brand Help please. Cheers
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Sensible or live life now - that's the question. Trust me life is pretty short and there is no point growing old saying I shoulda or coulda but you're the only one who knows what you really want or can really afford. For my money a "good" GTR takes a lot of beating in the smile on your dial stakes but they are not the cheapest gear to purchase or own. I love mine and just don't like the lack of places you can use them to their potential. They are fine a daily driver if you want to use them that way. I'm a sook and don't leave my car in public car parks etc as it seems to drag all the low lifes out for a squiz and I hate the thought of a keying or trolley - but I can afford to be picky as I have a number of cars to choose from. Your call but if you have got the money and the plan I don't think you will regret a GTR in the long run.
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Cold Air Induction For R32 Gt-r's
WRRR replied to djr81's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
djr81 After looking at my car (and now thinking out loud) it may be possible to link up the air deflector/guide with the std snorkel. If you made a new snorkel to take in the std position and bring it forward of the radiator cap/raised section of the radiator there looks like there may be enough room to get a full grill width intake slot using the air guide as the base. A bit like the Saurus one but further forward. I'll see if I can mock something up over the weekend or give me a yell and go over it. -
Probably not going to help you much but - Toluene - C6H5CH3 - aka methylbenzene, methylbenzol, phenylmethane, toluol. Have fun
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Changing Oil - How Do You Get The Oil Out Of The Cooler?
WRRR replied to mikel's topic in General Maintenance
For the amount of oil held up in the cooler and lines it's not worth worrying about unless you have some seriously degraded oil you are trying to get rid of (naughty, naughty). If you need to get rid of it just drop a line off. -
Wheel Offset Nissan Skyline R33 "97"
WRRR replied to Silver shadow's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Have a look at the sticky at the top of this section. Gee its full of real world wheel and offset setups for lots of Skylines. -
Cold Air Induction For R32 Gt-r's
WRRR replied to djr81's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
All for good OH&S practices. Call it a de-stress. You know you do your stretching and eye exercises and surfing ..... lol -
Cold Air Induction For R32 Gt-r's
WRRR replied to djr81's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Hey Richard Give me a call at work. You can try the CAI off my R33 GTR if you like. I am also modding a std airbox to take the bigger AFM's if I pull my finger out you can be the guinea pig. Cheers -
And check REVS and the written off register in the state the cars are registered. There are a few (well quite a lot actually) cars out there that aren't what they are being sold as. Old saying "if it looks to good to be true it probably is" Go on the condition of the car, v spec doesn't really carry much of a premium.
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Have a look at some of our forum sponsors, A couple of Garrett 2860s will only set you back about $2200. Believe me that can be only the start of the spend depending on how serious you are.
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I'm lost, if you don't have an exhaust manifold gasket leak you shouldn't have to remove the manifold to fit new turbos. Bingo on the bandaids though. As for -5 or -7 to make the most out of -5 you will probably need to spend up on injectors, etc. -7 will be a bit up from stock and give you the BB and steel wheel confidence.
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Have a look in the RB26 Upgrade section for some dyno curves of actual performance. For a street car I would go for the -5 , 0.64 (and have done). These setups with appropriate fuel and support mods have gone better than 500hp and still keep realistic on the road. The bigger housing will almost certainly be laggier but have the potential to give more up top (in a rush). Cheers
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R33 Gtr Full Brake Setup
WRRR replied to ali-turko's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Are you interested in selling the Brembo stickers separately? If not where did you get them? Cheers -
Drilled Vs Dimpled Rotors
WRRR replied to rio228's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Yup! Hence the looks versus function comment. I personally wouldn't use drilled on my cars but some people just love that drilled look. Exotic??? -
Drilled Vs Dimpled Rotors
WRRR replied to rio228's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Under hard use drilled rotors are more prone to failure than plain or properly slotted rotors. On the street with lower braking loads/temps/heat cycles it probably doesn't matter that much. Looks versus function. -
On the 32 your dump pipes are not the best for flow. Changing to bigger front pipes and geting a decent cat in there will help things flow better but not as well as they could - depending upon your power/torque target. You could put new front pipes in yourself fairly easily - if the studs/nuts free up (lots of CRC or similar beforehand). If you are planning a turbo upgrade in the future make sure you buy bits that go together well later. Have fun
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Try Jackie at CJ Motor on NissanSilvia. He has a good range of Bride rails in stock $235 - $250 each delivered. I recently got L & R RX rails to suit Recaro SR3 into GTR and they were delivered in 3 days east coast to SW WA. Good luck