DaveO74

Yep, full UAS 33 gtst kit, even has the car details embossed on the side. The other funny thing is John told me I'll have to grind a coue of mm off of the bottom of the hub to fit the caliper into the dogbone but in my case I didn't need to. I am on the iPhone at the moment but I'll post up pics later.

Hey did any of you guys find that the dogbones hit on the bottom suspension arm thingy(don't know the proper name) when on full lock? Noticed this on mine last night, 33 btw. I'm not overly concerned as it's only costing me about 15mm of lock just curious. Apologies for the hijack op

Looks good Matt, Couple of Q's for ya. How did your little rubber bits on the cam covers hold up with the new bolts? Mine didn't like the original washers I use so I had to get new ones. What do you need to work out with the vac and fuel lines? Might be able to help as I just went through all this with my plazmaman. I'm the tiniest bit ahead of you so shoot me a pm if you need a hand working out lines etc

Why can't you just put a new hose on the pcv? Would cost you what, max 10bux from supercrap or whoever.

Anyone can get photos from google...............just jokes man. Looks like your build thread needs updating (like i can talk lol)

Hey is that some they N/A engine that your trying to make look tough?? Sorry man couldn't resist the bait, looks good. The hex bolts really finish them off, made a hell of a difference with mine.

Thread pitch is the same for all afaik but I'm not certain. I wanted to use a dome head for the rad support brackets but couldn't find them in m6 only imperial sizes. If you come across them let us know can ya? Oh yeh you can get high tensile in silver fwiw.

I'm building it, chris is coating everything (as you already know) and helping me out with the fabrication side of things cause I can't weld to save me life. Yavuz at Unigroup is my tuner. Just started a new job and have been catching the bus, which is shitting me so I've gotta get it going as it's now my daily.........dam it!!!

Jeebuz Matt is yours ready for tuning already? Man Ive gotta pull my finger out and get mine finished

Dude give Bunnings a try, just make sure you get the stainless or high tensile ones and you'll be set. Just double checked the lengths, definately 25mm for the cam covers. You can also use them for the CAS as well if you want. Oh yeh and I used a 1/4" flat washer (stainless). Fwiw you can use m8 x15 or 20 for the fuel rail too and I can't remember the size for the tb, work out what ones you want to replace, flick me a pm and I'll get you pics of the packs so you can go and grab them all. I'm trying to convert all the bolts to hex type........just to annoy my tuner lol

M6 x 30mm (or 25 cant remember)hex bolts for the cam covers and m5 x 15mm for the coil pack cover, cost me I think about 20 bux all up. Just use a washer (Ill have a look in the shed at what size I used) to fill the hole in the coil cover and on the cam covers I just inverted the rubber grommet thingys so the washer partwas on top and added another underneath, otherwise the hex bolt will chew into the rubber. I havent got my new coil cover back from Chris yet but it will be the samw deal with the M5's EDIT: just went and checked the coil cover, m6 as well, not m5

I did my first track day with SAU last year at wakefield. I had been in a similar situation go you Sarge, wasn't confident, worried about making a fool of myself etc etc. The guys there (big thanks to chubbs, ando, matty and Ryan) helped me out so much with advise and where they thought I could go better that the nerves where gone after the second session. I had the best day and had a blast. Don't be worried about coming off the track at a place like wakie either, so much runoff that you will just spin out onto the grass. Hell I came off with Chubbs in the car on my very first lap, not to mention a few other times that day. No one gave me shit and all the guys were nothing but helpful, they have all been newbs once too mate. I say get the car in good order and give it a go, you will love it. Advanced driving course wouldnt hurt as mentioned above, I did one many years a go at amaroo park when I got my p's and they are very valuable. Just do it!!!!!!!!

Yep I think you guys are right. The add on flares don't give you anymore usable width under the guard. Maybe like 10-15mm tops as long as the car isn't too low (mine is lowered but not by much) The other thing too AFAIK is that you cannot mount the fares on a rolled lip as that is where they mount. It's really just an aesthetic thing to give a tougher/wider looking stance from what I can work out. Seems to be very mixed opinions on them, you either love them or hate them. Personally I like them but would like to trial fit them or at least see them in the flesh before I make up my mind. The last thing I want is the old Torana look lol Oh and phil the is an old hpi where a guy put gtr rear guards onto a s2 ( purple car IIRC ) and I think even the guy who owned it said he wouldn't do it again

Dori I'll pm ya tonight

If I was to leave my 33 as is I'll keep the LMGT2 rims, the way they are now fills out the current guards well enough. Plus LMGT2's in white are not very common (only ever seen a few cars with them, heaps in grey though) I'm more just wondering if I will have enough rim/offset/dish IF I decide to get the flares. I haven't ever seen any on a car other than photos so it's hard to get a proper idea of how they look.

I wouldn't count on it

Yeah true, but they are kind of sedate and not too chunky from what I can gather. They look as though they are almost flush at the bottom part and really only add width up the top if you get me? Eve flares are o lot more chunky I think???

We all know the 33 GTST lacks the tough stance like the GTR and looks a little anorexic, so Ive been thinking of putting some 400r type flared guards on my line to add a bit of width as Im getting a bonnet and front bar painted anyway. I was wondering wether you guys could advise on wether I will need to get wider wheels with a better offset to fill the guard more?? Im currently running LMGT2 wheels 17 x 9 +38r on 255 40/17 and 17 x 8 +35f on 235 45/17 Street semi's so they are a little wider than a normal 255 becuase of the side walls (Azenis RT215). I know of a set of cheap LMGT2's for sale which I was thinking will get me the same offset front and rear I could maybe squeeze on a 265 tyre with the flares. I'm not sure wether guard rolling will be an option as I think the fares are mounted on the bottom of the lip so it needs to be there AFAIK The thing I dont want is that funny look like the old SLR toranas have with the flared guards an then these funny looking tyres 2 inches inside the guard which looks weird. A few pics to show what the look Im after (Mainly the white one is the closest looking car to mine) Thoughts?????????

Yeah I was thinking the same Dave, at the moment I have LMGT2 Front 17 x 8" +35, rear 17 x 9" +38 with 235's on the front and 255's on the rear. They fill the guards pretty well but could do with the same offset up front and maybe squeeze a 265 tyre all round on them?????? Dunno, I do know of a set of the lmgt2 rims for sale relatively cheap but other things first and I'll see if they are still around I'll show you when your over my place and you can tell me what you think

Well, a long time between updates but some progress has been made. Its starting to look like an engine again I have worked out my piping troubles and Chris has tacked it together for me so I can figure out where to put the BOV and the AAC ports. It looks like Ill have to get a new hotside pipe as the factory one doesnt give me enough clearance for the BOV return pipe, no biggy. The fenix radiator is in and it is a great fit, looks like it was meant to be there. I ran into another small drama last weekend when I tried to install the front 324mm brake upgrade kit. Turns out I had two left hand rotors lol, so it was back to UAS and good old Dave(T04GTR) made a call for me and had the disc replaced in no time so its back with Chris again with my calipers for the thermal coating. I worked out I will not have a bleed point for the coolant (well to be honest Chris picked that one ) but I happened to have an old breather tank/swirl pot laying around so Ive installed that next to the brake booster in the drivers side corner. I had to make up a frankenstein bracket to get it to fit but it dosent look too bad. It does have a tiny bit of play in it so ill get a proper one made up later out of 5mm steel or something. Anyway a few random pics I took whenever I had the camera in the shed. They arent in any particular order but I thought Id post them up. I connected up all the coolant lines and vacuum lines etc tonight, ill post up some more progress pics once the brakes are on. If been doing some thinking about the exterior and was thinking that if Im getting the bonnet and front bar sprayed I might get some of the guard flares the give the body a bit of width, Ive never really been 100% happy with how the GTS looks compared the the GTR so I figure these may help with a bit of a tougher stance, not sure.....what do you guys think??????

I think I need the same as yours, my z56b was too small

Cool, thanks mate

Had the same problem, it would help a he'll of a lot if they would answer emails or return calls. For a big company thier customer service is lousy, I ended up throwing my cooler kit to the back of the shed.

Trent would it still be considered "unsafe" on an unopened engine (25) over 300+ kw using WMI? From my limited understanding it has similar effect in regards to knock and temps etc to e85. I have just installed a 2835 pro s which as we all know will net me around 280 but I'm a little worried about pushing much more out of the stock bottom end.

Pretty good read which covers installation and results. It's for a BMW but still worth looking over http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=297336