DaveO74

Hahahahahahahahahahaaaaaaaaaa!

Good point Eric, My wife was saying a similar thing last night and asked me if a really wantedto start this whole process again. 10 yrs is a long time to spend modifying a car. As with texis, from what I've seen GTR's tend to leave the track and chase down innocent bystanders....wink wink If your willing mate I'd love for you to take me for a spirited drive in your R one day?

Hey 2.0, I shouldve put that in my op, mainly a street/track car. If I had more time I would set it up more for track but I can't see myself getting out there much more than than the annual SAU wakie days. Work and bubby keep me pretty busy. Hey and at least I can safely say I'm probably the only person with an exhaust tip at both ends of the car!! 1.0

I wouldn't say it's experience mate but thanks anyway, just a lot of patience and planning. Plus a heap of trial and error. I see you lurking Matty......*cough,bible,cough*

Hey Guys and Gals, I could use all of your peoples opinions here as I cant seem to make up my mind. Those of you who know me know how much I love my S2 33 GTST and how much work I have put into it over the last ten years. I has gone from a bog stocker to now having a really nice responsive 240rwkw with a very heavily detailed engine bay and all the SK/Bilstein suspension goodies which has made it a very nice car to drive and i get comments all the time on how well it goes and how nice the engine bay looks. I have done all the work myself and I am very proud of how it has turned out Well time has taken its toll and it has developed a few little rattles and the paint has some stone chips and generally the car is starting to age a bit. It has had a great life with me and I maintain it meticulously so a couple of weeks ago I started looking into doing a full rebuild and I mean a FULL rebuild, strip it out, new body kit & full respray including the engine bay, some nice racing type seats and while all this was getting done build a Dirty 30 to drop back into the fresh car. My research into doing all of this has been a bit of a pain as I am finding every engine builder I talk to has a different opinion on what I should build or wants to charge me an absolute fortune for what I consider a basic built motor (330+rwkw on E85, not hard with a 25/30) So over lunch today I had a look around at a few of the Car Sale sites and in the for sale section here and have noticed that if I could probably get myself a very clean unmolested Series 3 R33 GTR for around the $25-35,000 mark. When I do the sums I would be looking at spending around at least $15,000 or so on my GTST to get it rebuilt (I have a mate thats going to do the painting for me mates rates and will do what I can myself with the other aspects of the build). And I could probably get somewhere around the $15k mark for my car if I was to sell it so it works out about the same. The wife thinks Im mad either way but god love her she tolerates my car obsession as it keeps me off the streets...hahaha and I do enjoy the tinkering so this is where I am interested in your opinions people. I kow at the end of the day its my decision but I have a soft spot for my GTST which I think is clouding my judgement a bit. I have never really driven a 33 GTR in anger as a comparison but have been in a few so I get what the attraction is but after all the work I have already put into my car would the R be THAT much better???(besides the tuning potential of course) Any way peeps what do you think?? Keep GR33DD and make her better than ever with a new look and the Dirty 30 or say goodby and put the money towards a 33 GTR. Some pics to give you an idea of the work Ive put into it

Thanks Matt I'll PM you tomorrow. And just to clear things up, I did tell the builder it will be run on E85........the clutch kick comment threw me though

Sounds nice Al, can you PM me your dyno sheet when you get a chance? Still haven't heard back from proengines, and I have toldthe original builder that I'll "think about it" and get back to him. I was pretty sure 8:1 was too low. Thanks guys

I reckon you are right Al, you know who it is we were talking about it the other day. Just goes to show it dosent hurt to ask lots of questions.....couldve been a very expensive lessen ah well looks like I'm on the hunt for a builder again, I've knocked two off the list so I'll get there.

Nah Steveo even I'm not that silly mate. I was going to get him to do the build but by the sounds of things I should reconsider it me thinks. I've tried to get hold of one of the ones you told me about but jeez he is hard to track down.......in a way a good sign cause it shows how busy he must be. And yeh Adriano apparently all my troubles will go away with a good old clutch kick! Plus I didn't think a 3076 would be in any way too big a turbo for a thirty

Yeah I have sent Greg an email so I'll see what he has to say. So my guess of 8:1 being way to low is on the money? I'm learning as I go

Hey Peeps, Well I have decided to give "GR33DD" a big makeover as the old 25 is getting a bit tired and the little scratches and rattles etc etc are driving me crazy. So after 10 years of ownership its time for the full rebuild with a respray and some nice interior goodies I have been doing my homework and I am about 110pages into the R33 Sticky and have been in touch with a couple of forum members (Thanks Al) and most of you guys seem to like a compression ratio of between 8.5-9:1 for response and to aviod the "doughy" feeling that can be associated with lower compression. Soooooo anyway I decided I would give a reputable engine builder in SA (Im not sure wether its right to name him) the task of building the new engine as he does the whole thing including head work (porting, cams, springs blah blah) is very well priced and seems to know what he is talking about. I am after a nice responsive package running a 3076r on e85 and i'm aiming for between 300-350rwkw which I reckon will be achievable on jungle juice. I decided to go with what the builder calls his "Torque Monster" build, fully forged, balanced and blueprinted, but I am adding forged rods. The main reasons I was planning on using him is with a young family time is limited nowadays and I will be spending enough of that running around getting resprays and eng certs and what not so I thought it will be good to not have to worry about the engine and just wait for the truck to turn up with the 30 on the pallet ready to bolt in and turn the key after I bolt on all the ancillaries. I quized him last night about what CR he will build the 30 to going by what I have said I want to use it for (mainly street with a couple of track days a year) and he insists on a 8:1 CR! I sent him another email respectfully asking what was his reasoning behind such a low compression as the standard RB25 sit at around 9:1 and the 26 around 8.5:1 and he replied: "Hi david. Its nice to run a bunch of static comp to get the engine to feel responsive, in the real world a turbo charged engine is a compromise in either top end or bottom /mid/ I prefer to stick with 8 to 1 comp as it is more user friendly. When giving static comp to get engine to be responsive it is either wrong turbo choice or gearing issues etc. the turbo charger is giving the engine its compression as it pumps . the highish static comp will then have you removing timing unusually on boost and its false economy in my mind. Basically what I say to people is why do you want the response? I then follow up with youre turbo charger is too large !! then they say ‘’ it makes 300rwkw and it has no response . truth is it will never be responsive , invest in a good ogura clutch that you can kick theres youre response !... sorry for the rave hope it helps.." Now I am in no way an expert and quite franky get a little lost at times but to me this does not seem right??????? Could some of you guys in the know give me a bit of advice on wether I should go ahead with the build at this CR or should I look around again What are some more of the pros and cons of running a CR of 8:1 Im not planning on doing the build next week or anything and have a timeframe of 1yr for the ENTIRE rebuild of the car but I was going to send the engine over in the new year. Thanks in advance

Hell no Chris, Dont you recognise that photo? Its the day I finished putting it back together. I do clean it up every now and then though. As stated above its comming out soon and the whole car is getting a rebuild and respray and an interior freshen up with seats etc etc, It get scatched the other day and I have a small wiring issue so Ive had enough. Hope your up for mucho moro powdercoating

Heres mine................................ Soon to have a dirty 30 inside

Very interested! Although I have only got the sk whiteline/bilstein kit it would be nice to get my camber and castor right instead of just trusting what the shop tells me at alignment time. As said above......always a different story from different shops, gets bloody confusing

Not that it's gonna help you much but we both seem to have the dreaded air con curse, I have a engine check light always on with my PFC and it goes away when the a/c is turned on! Maybe a 33 thing????? Annoying hey Can you somehow turn off the a/c using a laptop on the vipec?

Fair enough, plus the engine temp is always constant even after a good flogging

I'm starting to wonder wether this problem is temperature related???? Again just an assumption, just seems as though at times the eng check light goes out out when the ambient temps drop a little like at sunset etc. Paul or Trent, could you guys tell me what things I should look at for temp related things? Like for example if my thermostat was on it's way out would the PFC pick it up? But then again on second thought how would using the ac have an effect on the check light....mmmmmmmm Sorry if it's a noob question.

Why pay big dollars for splitfires when you cant get yellowjackets for cheaper and they are a proven performer? Contact Paul from performance wise in the trader section and he will sort you out. Nice bloke as well

will do mate, I'll know next week

Thanks Dave Ill pm you tonight

FCD Sold pending payment

And why would it turn off when the ac is on?

Duncan, I have some "insider" information regarding that particular servo. I have to be carefull here but I will send you a pm later

CRD will tune it (and sell you one if you want) EMU is a good computer but does have it's limitations. I used to run one on my 33 but traded it for a PFC. The thing I did like about the EMU was it's ease of use and that it has swithchable maps so you could have pulp map and a e85 map. Great option for mildly modded cars IMO but im no expert

WTF Dave! Good luck with the sale mate, very nice looking 34 free bumpy