DaveO74

Ive got the Apexi kit which I bought from Paul (Performance Wise) and the one above looks almost the same. Send Paul an email or PM and ask him. He is a really honest, top bloke who I have bought almost all of my parts from over the years and he has NEVER led me astray. He will tell you the difference, they do make a little more induction noise though. Let me know if you want pics of the Apexi kit

Thanks Guys Id hate to think they reved the car to 8k+

Hey Geraus, how have you been. I could be wrong but it seems to be the general rule of thumb that you use an actuator that has a "base" preload or tension or whatever its called as close to your desired boost as possible. So if you want to run say 18psi get a 17psi actuator...does that make sense? Someone correct me if I'm wrong. You can try what I did and buy a HKS adjustable actuator which helps a TINY bit. The other problem you and I have geraus is our rear housings just won't cope hence the drop at the end. I had a talk with Stao on the phone a few weeks ago and we really need a .63 rear to get the best out of our highflows and to be able to run more boost with a flatter curve. Keep an eye on your pm's mate cause I want to see what your profec is set at (gain etc) cause mines playing up. Talk to you tonight

sweet

Ok I get ya, So do you know what tractive effort scaling means? Does that mean they really did rev it to 8000+ or its just the way it displays because it overlays two dyno runs?

"as a baseline assuming manual GTST and 4th gear dyno run (speed / 28) * 1000 = RPM so 88KM/h is where your turbo ramps, is around 3142 RPM" Got this info from paulr33 a while back. Hope it helps SS8_Gohan May be a stupid question but what does tractive effort scaling mean? Have I been conned?

Not built as far as I know and Ive had it since 2000, we are not sure exactly what is done to it as its always made pretty good power even when "stock" Might have a dodgy Dyno readout???? Cams maybe??? but even then I agree its was spun a fair way, I have been told it is very strong and in exceptional condition Mods are: 98 R33 GTST Hybrid FMIC APEXi Super Suction Kit with pod Custom Air box with CAI(Home Made) Split Dump and Catco Race Cat 3.5" HKS Cat back Silent High Power exhaust Exedy 5puk Clutch Greddy Ex Cam Gear EMU Hypergear HighFlow (ATR28 G2 Profile) Nismo 555 Injectors and Walbro fuel pump Z32 AFM Tuned by CRD EDIT: and Yellow Jacket Coils If you guys have any opinions Im happy to hear them

Hey guys you may be able to give me some advice on my EBC setup while you are talking about boost curves. Below is my Dyno on my 33 (G2 profile with standard rear housing .4??) and a before and after highflow now do you reckon by my boost curve with the little "spike" at the start and then the taper at the end i should be able to tune my profec b spec II a little for a "flatter" line?? I am going to get Staos .63 housing soon so should I just wait till then as ill get a better curve anyway with the new tune?? P.S. sorry to jump in on you guys

Wooooo-Hooooo 250kw here I come! I'll be in touch Stao, I'm at Bega for work for a few weeks so I'll take the turbo off when I get back home

Hi Stao, Are these rear housings available in standard RB25 dump pattern? (like the AVO housing) Cheers, Dave

Guys try Nengun....or Powereplay imports but they can be expensive. Im pretty sure nengun have different types such as "Rays" or "Nismo"

Cheers SK Ill PM you tonight Dave

Hey Guys, Ive already got most of the SK Whiteline setup for my 33 GTST(Full Camber/Castor kit and Pineapples) and am going to order the Swaybars and Springs/Bilsteins tomorrow. So I went to order the swaybars today and noticed the part numbers dont match his recomendations On his GB thread he has for the front swaybars as either the "BNF24X" 24mm fixed or "BNF24Z" 24mm Adjustable. On the Whiteline website the "BNF24X" is a 27mm Fixed bar??? and the "Z" is a 24mm Adjustable On the rears he has "BNR11X" 22mm for the fixed and "BNR11XZ" 22mm for adjustable. On the Whiteline website the "BNR11X" is right for the fixed and the "BNR11XZ" is right for adjustable so this seem ok Can someone just clarify for me what sizes I should get? By the looks of it 24mm front and 22mm rear (Instead of 27mm front and 20mm rear) Is this the correct setup? You out there SK?

Adam, I am running a HKS adjustable actuator (set to 15psi I think) and my controller is a greddy profec b spec 2. Both were installed and setup by CRD. So CAN the coils effect boost control as Jim told me??

Ok thanks guys, Ive opened a small can of worms here buy the looks of it. So from what I can gather my best plan of attack (and cheaper) is by process of elimination. Now tht I have fixed the breaking down coils problem get back onto the dyno and see if it helps with the boost control. Only if that does not work should I then look at the .63 rear? I'm kind of a little confused now Ash, I get what you said about changing turbine wheels etc with the new rear but Stao told me that it's just a matter of machining the VG30 rear to fit the ATR28 profile and that's all I will need to do, no rebalancing etc Are you saying that that is not completely correct

Thanks for the tip, Ill get it back on there and get them to sort the boost control while they are at it. Once ive got it running right ill then make up my mind "It will feel better with the extra 2-3psi up top as any car that drops boost up top feels lazy compared to its midrange." I know exactly what your getting at here, I noticed it on the Freeway on the way back from the cruise on Thursday but I thought it was just me...Doh Didnt want to push my luck twice with the speed thing to feel it again

Hi Stao, Am I correct inreading your post as saying that my turbo will produce a "flatter" boost line?

Thanks R31Nismoid (Ash isnt it?) I was told by Jim that the top end drop was due to the stock coils breaking down and thats why he couldnt control the boost any better, and the next day I couldnt even get out of my driveway they were so bad so I just took his word for it. Since i installed the Yellow Jackets it has been running better but your saying I should go back to the Dyno?? With the new coils creating a better "Spark" will that have any aid in controlling the boost? Or am I way off on that one?

Yeh ill try them again. I did actually ask for that and the bottom sheet is what they emailed me Hey thats pretty good news 200rpm is very liveable. It doesnt "feel" at all laggy at the moment and im pretty happy for an $800 turbo so it may be worth giving the .63 a go then?

Hey Guys, I got my RB25 Highflow (Hypergear ATR28G2)and some other goodies tuned the other day by CRD and pulled 235rwkw. Now Ive come across a VG30 .63? rear housing from which I have been told by Stao at Hypergaer "should" get me around 250-260rwkw with the sacrifice of course of a bit of response. Maybe 400-800rpm laggier than it is now. I do admit that I am a response whore and dispise lag....BUT......the need for more power is already hitting me so I was wondering if you kind people could look over the two dyno sheets attached and tell me where you read boost to be startingat and where full boost is at what rpm's. It may be a noob thing (and if so please forgive me ) but im not sure I can work it out by the two printouts I have. If anyone out there has tried the .63 Housing on their RB25 Turbo Im interested in hearing your opinions. Thanks in advance P.S. Ignore the breaking down at the top end, the coils collapsed but it is now fixed with new Yellow Jackets

Hey guys I'd like to get in on this, just finished a bay detail, paint and turbo upgrade. Need to show it off somewhere!

Seriously mate Search is your friend Found this in 2mins http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fo...ick-t66556.html

Well all is good with the yellow jackets…actually better than good man they are awesome. Idle sits on 850-900 without missing a beat. This may seem weird but I definitely have more power in the midrange A bit hard to tell if ive gained any top end but as I said I’m pretty sure ive grabbed midrange torque. It will be interesting to se the Dyno results. All I can say is seriously forget getting raped buying Splitfires and try Yellow Jackets

Ok thanks Stao, sorry for the silly questions mate just wasn't sure wether a turbo had to be rebalanced once taken apart

Thanks Stao, I can put this housing onto the turbo myself? I don't need to rebalance or anything like that?