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33driver

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Everything posted by 33driver

  1. +1 ^ above what i was trying to say in my craplish lol
  2. Hi everyone, I'm in a position at the moment where I can organise the jaycar boost controllers, turbo timers, handsets and cables at pretty good pricing. This is my first group buy for SAU, so i want to make a few things clear. I'm here to support the skyline community. This means The dates I've set I will stick to, and i will follow through with all orders. This group buy will be as transparent as possible, you will know what I know. WHEN: There are a few dates that need to be made clear. I have been informed from my supplier that stock is ready for all items except the hand controllers, the hand controllers are due on the 1st of october (next month). This means: From NOW to the 7th october I will be taking 'intention to order' requests. On the 8th of October I will confirm stock with my supplier. I will then request payment from people that intend to order. On the 15th of october I will place the order, once stock has arrived I will send out to all recipients. Please note that if supplier does not have stock I will inform everyone and adjusts dates if need but, If he has a limited number of stock then it will be a 'first in best dressed' arrangement. HOW: I am located in Brisbane. People in Brisbane are more than welcome to pick up, im on the southside of town. For everyone else I will be sending out together once they have all arrived. WHAT I NEED FROM YOU: PM me with what and how much you would like to order, your postcode (so I can qoute shipping) and how you would like it sent. I'll confirm with you and list you username on this thread. When paying, making sure to put your username in the reference field so I know who paid what. NOW THE GOOD STUFF - PRICING AND WHAT IS ON OFFER Note - prices will drop depending on how many kits we get overall BOOST CONTROLLER KIT LINK RRP - $80 My price: 1 to 2 Kits - $65 + SHIPPING 3 or more - $60 + SHIPPING DIGITAL FUEL ADJUSTER KIT LINK RRP - $80 My Price: 1 to 2 Kits - $65 + SHIPPING 3 or more - $60 + SHIPPING HAND CONTROLLER LINK RRP - $60 My Price: 1 to 2 kits - $45 + SHIPPING 3 or more - $40 + SHIPPING CABLE LINK RRP - $8.35 My Price: $7 + SHIPPING PERFORMANCE BOOK LINK RRP - $20 My Price: $19 + SHIPPING (Not much discount here sorry) OTHER STUFF Can I get other jaycar stuff? Yeah probably but this will have to be delt with outside the group but - pm me for other stuff, if there is enough demand I'll add it into the group by. Be aware that the boost controller, adjuster and hand controller are ALL in kit form and must be built. Also, yes I'm aware the funkymonkey has his group buy going, and is just finishing up thats why I'm posting now and not earlier. Post all general questions here and I'll check this as often as possible. Thanks guys, hopefully we all get what were after! People listed as in: 1 - insu - 1 x Hand Controller 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10 -
  3. number of things i'd check - if u just degresed it, and its playing up, i'd check all cable connections and especially the plug, check your earth cable as that runs directly to the starter motor and solenoid. IF that all checks out, the solenoid is playing up and probably has sticking contacts (common problem is old starter motors). If your handy with things, you can pull the solenoid out, buy some new contacts and fix it urself, or take it to an auto elec and it will cost you a few hundred for them to reco the solenoid.
  4. hey mate, ineterested in pricing on a respray - white r33, just respray in the same colour, so only outside needs doing. Body is straight, only one small dent which a bit of filler will fix (can hardly notice it, about the size of a 5 cent piece) Big question is does he have his own booth or one he can use? I can do the spray myself with a mate but no booth makes it a pain and you'll also get dust artifacts no matter how hard you try not to. Also what paint does he use? Difference in costs with paint supplied etc...? cheers mate, just an inquiry at this stage but am looking at doing it soon.
  5. excellent idea should have thought of that myself - i've done that with many a car with excellent results. +1 for that idea
  6. Two things - Narva bulbs are a massive hit and miss - they outsource their bulbs to whatever is available at the time (sometimes even philips). Never liked their bulbs at all. Philips Vision plus are good, try the GT150's, there are a halfway between the bluevisions and the plus 50's. You get better reflections off street signs while retaining the visible light on the round. Blue visions are your next try but lose a bit of the road light. Don't bother with the diamond vision not worth the cash they demand. When it comes to HID's, be wary of the HID's available on the market through ebay etc... nothing wrong with them generally (they usually use philips ballasts) but the replacement bulbs can be hard to get and the connections are usually a one off. Have a look at the new philips range, they are half the price of what they used to be (i really do mean half) and bulbs are reasonably priced. I know it sounds like i'm talking up philips, but I worked in the auto elec industry via a big company importing these and have been round the block with this sort of stuff. Philips and Osram are the go, but osram can be pricey and hard to get a hold of. Another note on the motorised hid's, we did a LOT of testing on these systems and ALL failed within a very short period of time (we tested 20+ kits that people hadn't even heard of from korea, japan, taiwan etc... That said, philips are bringing out a new range to suit systems like the H4's etc. Narva did do a kit that had the HID with a standard bulb attached on the side. However these were discontinued after a flop in sales and perfomance. PM if you want some details on where to get the philips stuff from and reasonable pricing.
  7. While the alternator will help, I suspect a ford laser may have an alternator of like 80amps max, starter motors can draw like 400+ amps for the split second they crank, if the skyline's bat is dead flat and the ford's isn't in great condition the voltage will drop too quickly across the connection for the skyline to start. but meh getting techincal now - chuck the charger on there and it should be fine
  8. shouldn't matter where jumping from, but the points in the engine bay near the fuse box are easy to access. Make sure you have good size cables and a good connection on the clamps (this makes a massive difference). Failing that, the ford laser battery is probably crap and does not have enough cranking amps for the skyline. Call your local RACQ (not sure wat its called in WA) or find a bigger car/battery and try try again. Make sure the laser has its engine running as well. You can try leaving the two batteries connected for a few mintues, the two batteries will try to equalize their level of charge, and the bigger skyline battery may have enough umph to crank but its not recommend to leave them connected longer than required. The clicking sound is the starter motor using more amps than the battery can output, it starts to throw the solenoid out and turn the motor then it overloads the battery and turns off do to lack of voltage (voltage drops when you crank).
  9. personal experience tells me to stay away from autowatch (worked in the industry for a while) - go with mongoose for the premium equipment or look at dynamco stuff, you'll see them sold as cyclops sold at places like strathfield, they are rebranded dynamco ones. Almost all of their systems are aust. approved and fairly easy to install. Most good auto-elects can get the dynamco ones sold under a brand called OEX - they offer a good warranty, good instructions and OEX is a worldwide recognised trademark in the auto-electrical field (most of those replacement or new starter motors or alternators you buy are brought in to aust by OEX) If you need more info let me know
  10. i've mounted my sub similar to cheez's setup, however my sub is on the other side, I still have the battery there, as you can imagine its a tight fit, but I"m using a fairly shallow mounted 10" sub, with acoustic stuffing it sounds good enough for what i want. You have to REALLY get it loud ot head it reaching its limit, and its only on very low notes or frequencies. will post pics on request.
  11. hey mate, I"m very interested pending pics you willing to seperate? does the head unit have bluetooth?
  12. Not too sure, i'm not a big kyosho fan, but i know that Tamiya and Futaba are huge in japan. I think Tamiya has a lot more publicly established history than perhaps kyosho does. Would still be interesting to see though for sure. Next time I'm speaking to my mates over there all ask if they know if there is a muesum.
  13. hehe yeah good memories for sure
  14. hey guys finally got round to uploading pics from japan when i was there (almost a month ago now hehe). link here: http://www.supplycrate.com.au/gallery/main.php enjoy!
  15. likewise here play BF2 and BF2142 - hehe username: |THE|Cl0wn_M4N or |THE|Godinaclownsuit (Hello RAW Hehe)
  16. Ignore me just re-read main post these are japanese only - guys this is a good price - bought my copies in japan and they weren't far off these prices!
  17. paid 228 shipped for my c's - brand new.....r33 gts-t
  18. We were lucky enough to see a R34 Z tune there (customer's car) we spoke to the nissan guy there he said that for a premium cost you can have your R34 converted to Z tune level. Damn the Z tunes look nice though, nothing makes it look excessive...just dangerous hehe
  19. just an update - was there last week they are open on fridays from 1pm to 4pm and sat and sunday from i think it was 10am? through to 4ish. I went there on friday at like mid day had to drive around for an hour in lunch time traffic to burn off some time - not fun lol. But worth the visit. lot smaller than I expected but the R34 Xanavi made it worthwhile (and i bought a crap load of stuff at the shop)
  20. will you post? and can you plumbback if wanted?
  21. hey guys, Just a final update. I flew back from Japan yesterday, after going to a few tracks and many in depth discussions, I found anyone running a skyline (r33 and 32) were gapping there plugs between 6 and 7, some up to 8 depending on application but no bigger. I pulled my plugs last night and regapped them down to 0.76mm. Put them back and took it for a run. Car runs perfect. No missing accross the full rev range at all. And my missfiring has gone at idle as well, perfect idle. Drove it to work today and was perfect. So in the end, i've gapped from 1.1 down to .9 which was better but still problems. After dropping to 0.76, it was perfect. I will be getting splitfires shortly, but at least i know i what the problem was orginally. Cheers for all your help guys.
  22. hey guys, just a further update to my problem. Starting to sound like a combination of coil packs and the gap being a bit to big still (for watever reason). I get missfire at EXACTLY 3.5 on the stock boost guage (so i'm reading that as 0.35 bar) in first and 2nd gear, as the load lessens I guess, i don't get a misfire in 3rd gear + The car is idling like crap and missfiring all over the place as well. Seems to be heat related because when the car is cold, its fine (expect for the missfire on boost). If i drive the car, let it get hot. Park then come back a while later the problem is worse. Because of the heat relation i'm suspecting coil packs. I'm just curious as to why its doing it now, straight after I changed the plugs. Note that inbetween idle and full boost, the car is perfect and runs great at cruise rates. Tell me oh gurus what your thoughts are lol. :sorcerer:
  23. yeah coils are on the 'next to buy list' though i have to say the ones i have look pretty damn good. $510? they splitfires and where from? cheapest i saw was slider performance which was $525 delivered I"ll check the piping i played with when i get home, some of the houses were a bit old, might have ruptured one. Ah I love cars. On the plus side I just got the car back from having it tinted hehe.
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