33driver

hey, Was driving to work this morning and the missfires started to creep back. Didn't do it all the time and it was after the car was warmed up and at 5000+ revs mainly in 3rd gear, was fine in 1st/2nd didn't rev it hard past 3rd hehe. Very cold morning so I'm thinking that the gap needs to be closed maybe another 0.1mm. Was also getting a hesitant miss every now and then at idle but that was there before I changed plugs (although it is slightly more pronounced now) so i'm ignoring that for the moment. am I on the right path? I suspect there is something else going on though. The coil packs look in A+ condition, as sighted by me and my mechanic. But i think i'm going to invest in some splitfire coil packs to make sure the spark getting there isn't a problem. matt

Thats interesting you mention the wastegate. Everything appears to be stock on the outside, when we purchased the car I had a few people look at it and they thought it felt slightly underpowered. Never driven a R33 before I didn't really know wat to expect. After treating it to some good fuel and going over it I've been quite happy with the power. However recently I have been getting a whining sound form the turbo at high revs. When I say whining sounds, we have locked it down to a fluttering wastegate sticking or a slightly blown exhuast gasket or a combination of both. That sort of whining. Might be just a combination of sticking wastegate or something? Might be where the two are linked and just a fluke hehe. Where would I look to see if it was modded for more boost? I would assume the wastgate would be altered which might be a bit hard to tell? No idea about timing and spark gap being linked, first turbo car so not sure to be honest. I know timing altered the way the engine ran in my last car at different RPMS with misses etc...

actually the car is totally stock! Since i've owned it anyway, I'm the first owner since being in australia. I suspect it may have been running more boost while still in japan. Plenty of evidence to suggest that, but everything appears to be stock on visual inspection. Timing has been played with though as there are marks on the crank angle etc.. Only things 'modded' on it is a crappy catback and turbo timer. More boost is on the way but not yet hehe.

we managed to fix the problem today. The original HKS ones that were in there were gapped to 0.6 which we thought was a bit small. Apprantly R33's should be about 1.05mm? The NGK's were at 1.1mm liek you said. We regapped the NGK's to 0.8mm and it worked perfectly. Not sure why the old ones were at 0.6mm, might have been compensating for something else that we will no doubt find out in the future hehe. But we are fixed for the moment. Cheers, Matt

i'll have to have a look tomorrow the hks plugs did look a bit closer to the electrode though from memory

Hey guys, Well i've owned my R33 GTS-T for just over 6 months now. Very happy with the car so far. I finally got round to changing my plugs today. However it didn't end in a happy ending . Problem: Finished changing the plugs and went for a run, at first thought sweet, felt like a bit more bottom end tourqe. But as I start to build revs, I'm getting a miss after 4500, around 5000 revs. Feels like spark, not fuel, which is about right considering I only was playing with the ignition system. What I've done: The plugs I pulled out were HKS S35i plugs (to my surprise). I replaced them with NGK Iridum BKR5EIX-11 plugs. I was ultra careful checking all the plugs and the coil packs when putting everything back together. I'm wondering if the boots around the coil pack may haven cracked after I cleaned them and man handled them. But i'm not sure. I would assume that would allow a break done in spark if the boots were cracked. Thoughts? I read the sticky about the miss fire, however do they mean put tape around the boots themselves? Not sure

PM if you want some stuff from ACA, got preety good business ties with them through work. I know of a far cheaper place to get injector plugs and electrical stuff like that from, PM for info.

xenons shouldnt get hot on the actual bulb so the reflector itself shouldnt be affected from heat to much. In my expereince the lens do get a bit hot though. The D2R is a fairly standard bulb, if you guys are looking for replacements, I'd have a look at the Philips range. I work with a certain company that wholesales electrical gear like this all day long, ask your local parts shop (repco or autobarn for example) about the new range of philips coming out. I've seen the pricing, you can buy a pair of bulbs for the same price as one of the old bulbs. Worth a look. If they don't know aout em, tell em to look them up.

I don't know about the R32 (I assume thats what you have, since your sig?) but hte R33 have a weird floor pattern, universal ones just don't fit right. Otherwise I would agree, I'd pay $60 for generic ones btu they dont fit

Hey guys, Pretty new to the skyline world, but i've been around my share of nissans. After driving my 33 for a bit know i'm starting to organize bits and pieces for it. First thing I wanted was floor mats, since the importer kept the ones that were in mine when I got it (bastards). Now I simply refused to pay the ebay price of $299 for 'genuine' mats. Through contacts and a bit of research I am now confident I can have a set made for pretty much any skyline for around 100-150 mark. Carpet would be heavy duty auto motive carpet, although a bit thinner than the genuine article. I can have it trimmed it pretty much any colour as well. I'm also looking to have them embroided with say skyline or nissan or something like that, however I am yet to find an embroider who will do small scale stuff as the tooling can be a pia. Just thought I'd get some interest as I rekon there would be a few people out there like me that don't want to pay the $299 premium! If i can get things rolling I might be able to do a small scale group buy or something. Cheeeeeeers!

fulcrum suspension at capalaba is the best i've delt with, PM me and i'll see if I can pull some strings at work, can at least get fulcrum's part numbers. I also have a contact at nissan, PM me and i'll give you the details, he won't bullsh*t you around like most! Just let me know exactly wat ur after and your car details etc...

what car have you got? I'm always interested in new projects!

For sale: 1984 Nissan 300ZX Asking Price: $8,500ono. ($7,000 with stock rims and tyres only) Killometer's: 260,000+ on clock Manual or Automatic transmission: Manual Engine Type: VG30 Location: Near CBD in BRISBANE Modifications: Engine: VG30E NA Mandrel Bent Headers to 2 3/4" Mandrel Exhuast with Zetti Muffler and no Cat. On its 2nd engine and gear box. Engine has about 10,000k's on it and runs great. Exedy Custom Clutch rated at 400HP RDA Slotted/Vented Front Rotors RDA Slotted Rear Rotors Bendix Ultimate brake pads New Ultra Heavy Duty radiator fitted with dual Spal Electric fans. Sound: Dual 400/800w amps, pioneer splits at the front, kenwood 6"s in the rear and a 12 inch sub in the boot. Custom DVD system in the sun visor with seperate head unit. Looks: Car has been resprayed in 2003 Didge Viper Red, Side Skirts and New polyurethane front bar (belived to be an avante style) added. Z-Tek Performance Rims have been fitted with Falken Azens ST155's Splitfire Guages have been fitted in place of the existing centre dash guages. 100W Driving lights added with switching relays to the main headlights. Crash History: Only a few dents before I bought it, car has been fully reworked as seen in the pics. Other Comment's about the vehicle: Car is in fantastic condition, very sad to see it go. All the work was done by a professional mechanic with me helping where I can. I've upgraded to my R33, but the Z still has plenty of life left in it, I've spent thousands on it in the last few months. I have $15,000 in receipts and thats NOT including labour! No expense spaired. There is also a heap of spare parts (flywheels, clutches etc...) that will go with the car. Please feel free to call me, or SMS might be better as my phone is on silent while at work. Contact detail's: Matt - 0422 610 560 Pictures

hey have you got the left hand side rear vision mirror? colour? PM ME Cheers, matt

Hey guys, Coming home last night, I feel a bit of a bang then something clanging around in the rear of the car (this was going over a bump). I've never trusted the suspension thats in there but can't afford to do much about it at the moment. The sound is like something falling left or right or 'flopping' backwards and forwards. There seems to b a fair amount of what I would call 'spring resonance'. You can hear the springs clanging. After this happened I threw the car into some hard corners trying to feel out the problem, the car handled and drove the same as it always has. I've stripped the boot of anything that could be moving and its helped but there is still the spring noise etc.... Ideas?

well there's my answer for the pulling to the left, wheel alignment report shows left at +4.41 degrees and right at +5.57 degrees. Are the castor rods seperate to the bushes or are they together? Just replace both? Vibration is the last thing ot worry about i guess, it only happs at about 110km/h plus. Before the alignment it was about 80km/h plus

ok cheers for that, i'll go check the report now. The vibration is through the steering wheel, not the seat. Possibly rack bushes or something?

Hey guys, Love the car, absolute blast to drive, however now that i've been driving it for a bit, i'm starting to look into its hopefully minor issues. Issue 1) After full wheel alignment and balance, car still has slight vibration at high speeds - i'm calling shit tyres since the guy at the workshop said the rear's where out of whack and slightly egged just want confirmation. Issue 2) Car pulls to the left if I let the steering wheel go - car has coilovers but are old and way to hard and i think oversprung, possibilites? castor rods? control arm or something i can adjust? issue 3) how to tell if car is over sprung - i think it is, had 2 people get in on the passenger side, was sagged and i could 'feel' the damper move and actually work rather than the spring just bounce around like usual - my thinking is with more weight its stopped the spring from moving as much and allowing the damper to do its job. With just me in the car, if i go over a large bump you can hear the springs 'resonate' and clang around. Issue 1 and 3 i think can be fixed with new tires and a change in suspension, issue 2 i'm not sure about. No obvious viscous fluids so i'm not sure about the castor rods, but my mechanic is away so i can't talk it through with him. Cheers guys! For once i'm actually looking forward to working on a car!

picked the car up from the tyre place, he said the rear wheels were f**ked, rear left was out by 7 degrees, he fixed the alignment then balanced the rims, and again said the rims were all over the place, had to add 50 grams on one and 60 grams on the other. I've had all that fixed and it runs awesome now. He did say the rear tires were shit and there was a lot of 'run' in the walls of the tire, if there is more vibrations then that is why. So i'll be putting new rubber on the rears at least. Any thoughts on good tires these days? I'm running Falken ST155s on my Z and i love them. Thanks for all you rreplies too by the way - other forums just don't bother to reply on simple questions like these - thanks

good thinking, he said the wheels were done when i bought it but they came off a different car so I suspect they weren't properly done, i'll have a wheel alignment and balance done just in case. the one thing i have never expereinced is imbalanced wheels since i've always had mine done so that may be it.

hey guys well i've been driving the R33 for a week and a bit now and all seems pretty sweet. There are a few things though that I'm looking into. I'm experiencing a vibration at exactly 100km/h and above (worse at 100ks) It feels like the shudder is coming through the pedals, however its more through the suspension and geometry of the car. Its not brake or steering shudder as I know what they feel like. The suspension is VERY hard and i'll be replacing it with new coilovers shortly, however this sort of feels like its more in the pivoting sections of the suspension geometry, morel iek a tie rod or something? Any ideas on where to look? Thanks guys, matt

Hey guys well i've been driving the R33 for a week and a bit now and all seems pretty sweet. There are a few things though that I'm looking into. I'm experiencing a vibration at exactly 100km/h and above (worse at 100ks) It feels like the shudder is coming through the pedals, however its more through the suspension and geometry of the car. Its not brake or steering shudder as I know what they feel like. The suspension is VERY hard and i'll be replacing it with new coilovers shortly, however this sort of feels like its more in the pivoting sections of the suspension geometry, morel iek a tie rod or something? Any ideas on where to look? Thanks guys, matt

g'day guys, a big shout out to 12DFY who came and looked at the 33 last weekend, after a carefully going over it, we get gave the thumbs up and a drove home a skyline owner. hehe, within 3 hours of getting back to brisbane I had half the dash out and a new head unit and speakers on its way hehe. Very happy with the car and look forward to a long life with it. Cheers, Matt

Yeah I plan on getting a tune done by chapman and chapman, my good mate and mechanic used to work there, but getting a chance with him to go from brisbane to the goldcoast is hard lol

yeah we did a full check over - bushes and everything seem to be good, no unusual signs of wear - heater hoses and fire wall fibre was all in tact and looked brand new. No signs of welding or anything on the seams welds around the car either. THe thing i don't know is RB series engines, 12DFY, how can I get in contact with you? would really appreciate someone elses knowledge before I take the plunge. cheers