33driver

Hey all, About to start replacing my clutch and a few other things, but I want to ask of everyone's input. I have what I think is excessive diff backlash. I know this could be uni's, drive shaft, diff etc... but can anyone point out how to narrow it down? There is a clunk when letting off the accelerator and if I slightly engage the clutch from a stand still. I know some backlash is normal, however I would call this excessive. Any ideas on how to narrow it down? If it is the diff, I'll probably swap it out with a kaaz 1.5way, should I replace the crown pinion at the same time? Thanks in advance Cheers, Matt

whereabouts in mt cotton? I'm in capalaba, but live on Mt Cotton road

http://www.bybyte.com/ They are US, but prices are reasonable and the contact I have had with them, they respond pretty quick (Am yet to buy from them, I went a $500 all in one head unit, 7inch touch screen with gps/dvd/ipod etc...)

you have pm

just to add to rs73's comments, you REALLY don't want drilled (or also called cross-drilled) on a street car, they WILL crack under heat during street use. Yes the pictures are slightly differently, but at the end of the day, slotted is slotted, they will perform the same (the dimpled gold ones even better), both will allow the gases to escape and to increase the cooling area of the rotor. I know its not any of my business but I wanted to chuck my 0.2 in.

hey mate, picked mine up form the tnt depot today, thanks heaps!

hey mate, whats the CCA rating? Matt

last time i used him he did a compressor on my mum's car, so hard to gauge on cost, but he is pretty damn cheap. At the end of the day, if i was doing an overhaul of my system i wouldn't use him, but if i wanted a quick regass + check for leaks then thats who i'd call. No harm in calling him to ask on price, but i would rekon around $60 is about right. Cheers, Matt

I've got a guy, mobile and quick, I'll dig up the number. Edit. 0412 167 318 - “Thai Air Conditioning” Name L B Luu Quick and dirty, but gets the job done and cheap . I've used him in the Brisbane area, not sure how far he travels though

now taking reasonable offers, for the right price will also throw in the Performance Cars book which explains how to tune and install it.

Hey all, For Sale, I have my Jaycar Boost Controller and Hand Controller. Both are completely built. I have also made a separate LED monitor box which extends the status LED's from the control unit itself. This is so you can see what is going on as you tune the car. Location: Brisbane Reason for sale: I'm impatient with tuning and don't have the time to spend getting it tuned, for the short time I was using it it seemed to function as advertised, boosted VERY quick! There was an intermittent problem with the output not working, but I think we have ruled that problem as a dodgy solenoid. Would suit someone that like to mess around with electrics etc....but is a very simple kit to put in! What you get: Electronic Boost Controller, Hand controller, LED monitor box, RS232 cable for connecting the hand controller to the boost controller. What you need to get this going: Boost control solenoid, just use the stock one on your vehicle (I used mine of my R33). I have used a standard 6 pin automotive connector on the end of the boost controller, so you'll either need to cut it off or just grab one from Autobarn (cheap as). Everything is labeled as well. Price: $140 Delivered Australia Wide These kits cost more to buy and THEN have to build them yourself, so its a pretty good deal I think. See pics below:

ready with money, waiting on PM, thanks.

the clicking sound is the vent flap gear up behind the middle vents, its stripped the gears. Good news? Its a easy fix/part.... Bad news? You have to pull the entire dash out to fix the damn thing... hence why not many people fix it. The person that works out how to replace it without pulling the dash deserves a freaking medal lol. (and no I haven't fixed mine either)

to me Thanks mate, already fitted to car, big difference over stock 33, cheers!

You have PM

hey mate, thanks for clearing it up in my mind, it makes more sense now, I'm going to have to sit down and work out how to attack it now. I thought it worth mentioning, i'm not driving a Stagea, R33 Series 2 is my ride. I'll mess around with it this week and hopefully get somewhere with it, if not i'll look at a closed loop system

yeah i gurss that makes sense, i guess my question is, how are you setting that 10psi, is that via the 70-80% on the input? so say 70% may equal 15psi but then 80% may be 20psi? (In theory not actual figures). The boost just runs away if it wants to, I thought the vent was for setting you min. boost not max? The max boost is set via the boost controller which I belive is what the percentages mean. Correct me if i'm wrong. I like your idea about the needle valve though, might invest in that. matt

ok just messed with the settings again, i put my highest limit to 72%, same map all round and its now boosting high consistently i THINK so I think i'm getting it into the right range. I think if I put it down to about 60% i'll be at stock boost level (roughly) then I should be good to go. What vent sizing and sort of peak psi were you hitting?

i've set the vent size at 2mm, which i thought would be small enough, I've noticed that if i set it to say 50 - 80% it makes the same boost? How did you actually adjust the amount of boost it was pushing? Am I reading this correctly, the higher the percentage the more boost? As that doesn't appear to be whats happening, that said, it could be that the vent size is too big. I've fixed the surge at the start i think, was loading it in second gear, but should have done it in third as it hits full load quicker, so it was trying to boost earlier. But i still don't understand how to adjust the 'boost level'.

ok so went out and tuned it today, was a little frustrating reading the manual as it contradicts itself a lot, however think I have it worked out. I'm at 100% boost solenoid at about input 33 for stockish boost (maybe a tad more). So i'm working on getting a smooth map happening, I did have some funky spike towards the end of the map, however seem to have got that under control after feathering the end of the map back to 0. What i'm having trouble with is initial surge, if i'm at 500rpm, floor it in say 3rd, it spikes up to 1bar (about 15psi) before settling down as the load points come down and revs go up. I figure its just playing with how it comes on boost, but would be interested to see what your (or anyones) boost maps are like? Haven't done anything with the high map yet, want to get the low map working. Cheers, Matt

yeah solenoid is functioning, at start up it moves between 4-6 on the input, after it warms up drops to 2-3 i've messed with the solenoid settings and you can hear/feel the solenoid chatting so it all looks goo so far! will know tomorrow once I start messing with the boost maps, i've got the new pumbing done just got to actually put it in. How far have you got with yours? matt

Thought i'd at least put up how I'm going with my setup, I redid all the solder joints and tested them all, turns out it was a dud LED on the output circuit that was screwing things up for me, going to do a boost curve tune tomorrow, but here are some pics of the install, I relocated the status LED's, hi/low map switch and put in some indicators for good measure. Let me know what you think, I'm quite happy with how it turned out. I'll let the pictures do most of hte explaining Wiring harnesses from the car ready to connect to the boost controller Boost controller ready to go in, the blue cable is the extension for the LED's which I mounted off the main the unit (cable is actually Cat5 ) Close up of 6 pin plugs Wiring before tidy up, breakout board for 12V that I built on the left, boost controller mounted on the right under the dash Another shot of the boost controller Another shot with boost controller mounted High/Low boost switch Mounted the 3 status leds in the ash tray (power, input, output), LED's on the right are the indicators for high/low boost maps Close up of LED box with labels All hidden away All turned on All turned on, no flash this time Wide angle shot with controller in glove box All lights are go! high map selected and output circuit all lit up Boost controller Enjoy!

hey mate, where abouts you located? Cheers, Matt

Damn, sorry to here about the car dude, I work at emergency services just down the road where the crash happened, if i'd know it was a skyline i would have been straight out to help/smack the guy down!

anyone having luck with these units? I'm halfway through installation however my IEBC unit it not showing anything on the output circuit, it shows 10 to 12v, which is defiantely not right as it should be a grounded switching circuit. If I remove the output led, the 12v stops but I still can't get the solenoid to function. I've checked all teh diodes and links and everything looks right, I suspect once of the IC's isn't working correctly but I have no idea how to test them. Anyone had similar issues? Cheers, Matt