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Everything posted by 33driver
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mine showed full boost as well, so worth checking, it will chew the fuel as well. Is there any smoke coming out the exhaust?
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dude there is a guy in group buy classifieds does awesome deals on RDA stuff, but $610 a pair! jessus thats a tad on the expensive side....i think the RRP is like $300-350 for a front set, but have a look through the group buy stuff for the RDA group buys....cheap as....he does EBC pads as well.
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hey guys, thought I'd back you up Dalibor lol, I'm an ICT Team Leader for Desktops and Mobility infrastructure with the department of emergency services. My best mate is a mechanic and everything i have to do my current and previous cars has been to his help. I believe anything can be DIY with enough research and time spent cafeully getting things right, my cars are a testiment to that. Name: Matthew Hodder Age: 22 Fabrication status : DIY ftw How long have you been in the trade? The home trade that is...lol Qualifications: Bachelor in Interactive Entertainment, specialising the Games and majoring in Animation Where Do You WOrk: Department of Emergency Services
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+1 for Mr Cool in brisbane, if they can't rebuild it I doubt anyone can. I've got a few contacts for places that will get them in if you provide numbers, they mainly sell business to business but are known for a cash sale Pm if you want details
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check hose connections to the intercooler, i forgot to do up a clamp last time i was working on the car, went for a drive and felt very flat as it was leaking on boost.
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Hey, Can you PM me a price for standard slotted to suit R33 GTS-T front and rear, and EBC pads to suit, however I don't know the difference in the colours? Will be in for next round! Cheers, Matt
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hey guys, read through all the threads, I have an R33 and like everyone else I'm keen on the NIStune setup. I see you can use teh Z32 ecu's and have them chipped, other than the cost of the set up, whats the compromise going with the Z32 configuration? (Yes I know you have to redo the wiring slightly) but performance wise? configuration? Cheers, Matt
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Yellow Fever (restoring R33 And R34 Model Headlights)
33driver replied to Chang's topic in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ
good tut, I use plastic polish to the same affect, the problem I now have it that after sanding/polishing, we have taken off the UV protective coating so it will yellow and craze again faster. I'm yet to find a way to recoat them other that those 'skinz' which are clean and UV protective, but they cost a small fortune lol. -
Greddy E-manage Ultimate Ecu
33driver replied to Smitizen's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
hey mate, i'm in brisbane but i'm heading down to victoria in about 2 weeks, where abouts in vic? -
Greddy E-manage Ultimate Ecu
33driver replied to Smitizen's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
hey mate, what sort of condition? reason for selling? which version? any pics? location? very interested Cheers, Matt -
Exhaust 4 Sale 3inch Complete
33driver replied to kspots08's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
is the dump pipe/front pipe seperate? -
Exhaust 4 Sale 3inch Complete
33driver replied to kspots08's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
likewise, interested in pics and is it turbo back? cat back? dump back? -
Hey mate, Where abouts are you located? Cheers, Matt
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hey mate, Is it a straight bolt in affair? Takings nearest offers?
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Quick Shifter, C's Vs. Nismo
33driver replied to Turbz_13's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
nismo ones are normally a blackish colour or flat metal, the C's shifters are chromed. but hard to tell really if its a rip off or not. -
C-Tek chargers are the only way to go, nothing compares to their performance
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I've got one in my skyline, I worked for an auto-elec importer that we were trailing them one, it won't get rid of any rust, but any rust already in the car should slow down to almost stopping and it should prevent any new rust from appearing. I've got the erps system in my car: http://www.erps.com.au/ They are expensive for what they are, i think the kit i got retails at about $800 to trade. They seem to work ok, but aren't the end all to rust prevention.
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Panel Beater Near Tingalpa...for Non Insurance Work
33driver replied to maclarenf1's topic in Queensland
hey mate, Check out a company called B & M Bodyworks (also BAM garage) down the back of bulimba bout 1 min drive from the Fish Factory on lytton road, used them many time for accidents and general panel beating, good family business, prices are pretty sharp and they are registered with all teh insurance mobs. There is another place round the corner from there, had a few small cash jobs done by them but their full prices are a bit on the expensive side. Would certainly recommend B & M though. oh and take the driveway on a angle, tad steep for lowered cars hehe. # numbers: B & M Body Works (07) 3399 7846 132 Lytton Rd Bulimba QLD 4171 Cheers, Matt -
I play on node servers, (PC), play as OE.God, mainly on the Hard Core TDM servers
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still have them?
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gumflapper: hehe this was mentioned a few posts up and is defiantely a good point, I've already changed my fuses to suit the accesories. mr moo: looking good! turbo_brian: yeah ingram is still going strong, they merged with ashdown when they got bought out, started to grow quite quickly. Just before I left we were hitting record budgets easily so they are going well. infamous_t: I think I spoke to gibbo a few times, didn't hear a lot from the wa reps as they seems to know what they were doing as opposed to some 'other' reps around oz lol.
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who was your mate? I worked at ingram during the merge with ashdown and then at head office for a while so I know most of the ppl around the joint 12volt shop is good, worth going in to have a look. There is one in brisbane, on wynum road near tingalpa.
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totally agree on all points there, I really like the idea of using fuses to match the outputs, i'll change that this weekend. I just chose 30amp as a default (that and i had plenty on hand lol) I knew that the system would never work if all circuits were fully loaded, however as you mention that is very unlikely to occur. The two 12v lines into the circuit are both fused with 150amp block fuses, so inputs should be ok. Could probably uprate the relay to a higher amperage, but i'd be very surprised if I was to meet the 30amp limit. I'm also looking at using a latching relay instead of the standard relay, I don't really like having a relay held on for long periods of time. I'll whip up a new circuit and stuff, might even lay it down on a circuit board if i get a chance. cheers for the input, looks like breakout box v2 is already on its way lol.
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if people are having problems sourcing parts I can certainly look at making up a few boards, with different configs if ppl were interested.
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jaycar is ok for the basic stuff, i get all my auto electric gear direct from the suppliers, check out a company called http://www.ashdown-ingram.com.au they are owned by the repco group and supply about 70-80% of the auto electric stuff australia wide. They generally only do trade sales, but will usually do over the counter cash sales. Not sure where you are but there is at least 3 or 4 in the brisbane area. Usually awesome prices compared to autobarn or normal repco shops that said, autobarn or repco should be able to get the narva fuse boxes etc... (at a premium of course)