Shockster0429

Yeah it is a good idea, how do you know which washers to pick? http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/efr_index.html

Yeah they are stockers, tomei valve springs? Can they be used with stock Hyrdo lifters w/o over powering them?

****UPDATE!!**** I found a big boost leak after I was working on my car... fixed it took the car out for a drive and it felt a LOT better however... Well it appears as if my ***-Dyno is off by over 50%. We got back on the dyno today, only to see my issue did not go away. The boost leak fixed spool times and response, but didn't fix ANY numbers... We are making 200ft-lbs at 2000 and at 4000 with 14 psi. Fuel pressure is all straightened out now. Holding 45psi vac off at idle. Didn't change at all day. The car just has no balls. Dont get me wrong, its not slow, but its no where near what it should be. Everything is basically perfect. Air intake temps, water temps, a/f ratio (11.1-11.3 at WOT), timing is spot on as well, plugs are great, good equal burn pattern and no missing..., muffler is not clogged by any means. I drove down with my buddy who owns and EVO 8, my car is basically as fast as his bolt on EVO.... to give you an idea, but its not making numbers of what it should be. We really are thinking that its something with the valves/lifters/springs. Springs possibly weak and when boosting begins they start leaking at the intake ports that are supposed to be closed. (so the back of the closed valve stem is being pressed down by the 14-15 psi in the plenum)... even if it is just a little bit, its enough... Or I have some bad lifters, but I'm doubting that since we have no lifter tick. Even this morning I turned my car on it was 32 degrees outside and no tick.... opinions would be greatly appreciated. As nice as it is to drive my car now, I feel like I have wasted xx,xxx dollars just to make it as fast as it was before... The head I'm using is not my old head but rather someone elses...so I'll I know about it is that the valves hold cylinder pressure... but I don't know about boost... I'd really appreciate ideas, I'm getting very stumped... -Cory

Gary, I see what your saying with the valves being shown leaking in a leakdown/compression check. However wouldnt they just get pushed up and closed from the cylinder pressure and not leak? I'm thinking when the boost is coming on. On the intake side port when the valves should be closed the boost pressure in the plenum runners is forcing them to open due to weak springs? I have a reason the springs could be possible weak. When I rebuilt a few of the hydro lifters that were squishy before reinstalling them. However I re-installed the bleeder valve upside down, causing the lifter to be to tall and incompressible. This made the valves leak. So I had to remove them all and install lifters I had laying around from another motor. But the motor was cranked with these lifters installed wrong a hundred or so times... now I'm not sure what type of lift I would have been putting on these springs but I feel like I might have fatigued them. It seems so strange that the power we were making went away after our best pull when the numbers were starting to get up there. Possibly just finishing my springs off? After we ran into this hp issue the boost was actually higher than it was before even though the MBC wasn't touched. (from 14 psi to 17-18psi) Also 3000rpm had the same hp/tq basically as 4500rpm.... There were no gains like there was before (172hp/300ftlbs@3000 to 282hp/330ftlbs@4500) I can check my exhaust, its just pretty much a straight pipe. 2 mufflers and one connection. Its possible the gasket for that broke and is hanging in the pipe? I'm doubting it but I know you are saying. I've seen a bad cat absolutely turn a truck into a dog due to being clogged just killing the power. thanks, any more ideas insight would be greatly appreciated. -Cory

Okay guys, heres the deal, yesterday was tuning day for me and my freshly built rb25/26 hybrid. Well we had serious problems getting down there non car related it was a long day... I'll cut to the chase, car started out AMAZING, 500 rpm increment pulls with the microtech lt12s slowly but surely adding fuel with 14psi through the gt35r. We were making 300ftlbs at 3000 rpm.... We made 387rwhp and 345 ft lbs at 5500 rpm loads at 14 psi. Never got to make a full sweep yet... At that point we were running out of fuel. The nismo FPR cant handle the dual pumps or something, and is not raising its pressure properly. So I ran down to Jegs and got an aeromotive. Hooked it in cant get the base FP down any lower than 55-56 with vac, it just wont go any lower... So tuning was compensated for that. Now heres were it gets weird. Our numbers started falling off, yet the motor sounds extremely strong, no different then it was before. So after a few ramps at 4000 we are only at 200 is ft lbs now about a 1/3rd or a bit less than before... we decided to check the plugs. They were fine, A/F's are 11.1-11.3 the entire time, with little timing seeing around 16-17 degrees the coming back down as boost was added which was now around 16-18 psi (we didn't touch the MBC). Super super conservative tune, but no power now? So we do a compression check and leak down test cylinders are all 150+ish, leak down test is 95-100% across the board..... We are coming to the conclusion the valves are leaking under pressure. Or they just arnt opening enough. Some of my lifers were squishy.. right after we shut it off and some are rock hard how they should be and others were soft. Theres no lifter tap however. You guys think the lifters are preventing my valves from getting proper lift thus the drop in HP? Or it could be the springs being weak and leaking off? I'm only at 8.5mm lift and 264in-268ex duration... Anyone ever seen a similar problem such as this? They car is drivable, it sounds like a ****ing animal, holy **** the added displacement and modifications makes it sound so scary.... I've got footage and **** I need a buddy to send it to me so I can show some of the pulls. But right now shes a total dog. It idles great, No boost leaks nothing of that, we checked everything.... Also the injectors are re flowed to 740cc's they are from a reputable company who has been proven and known for their injectors. lets hear some other opinions on the matter... I'd really like to know what the deal is. I'm leaning towards a valve related issue.

bump! camshafts are both still for sale!

No I don't, these are bolt on shafts meant for a stock head.

Thats a good bit of reassuring information for my build, I'm running a very similar setup for my car IS a street car, that will be dragged and tracked occasionally. Do you feel its safe to occasionally launch off a 2 step running 370ish kw's with an n1 pump at the track, maybe a dozen times a month or so?

Still for sale!!! NEW PRICE: $550 AU Shipped! or $450 American Shipped (if you live in the states)

The Japanese I do believe, and its KA24 .

not quite its a hatch back lol. 89's here came with Zenki or pig nosed front ends, 91-94's came with what you see above called a Chuki.

My 044 will be mounted in my engine bay, so there will basically be the length of the car's distance between the two. I think your pumps might have been too close together? OR maybe it was too small of a line. In theory you would think the fuel would be sucked through the walbro more with the 044 since they are hooked to the same line it would be aiding.. Maybe I'll call bosch tomorrow or a company that sells these pumps and uses them to see what they think. GeeTR this is a chuki front end and my car...

good point, I know in fluid systems like for water plants and such, running pumps in parallel doesn't allow them to flow their max do to line sizing and so forth.. I shall see, basically the walbro will just be hanging out then if that ends up being the case. I'll know more when I'm making pulls and watching my fuel pressure.

Lol, well I'm from the states, and around here theres no emissions testing or anything, so no worries. Its a s-13 hatch with chuki front end. I think for the moment since its cool to run the pump like that, I'll just use my stock lines and nipple adapters. Setup is 2.7 liter stroker with forgies of course, 8.5 to 1, 35r T4 hot sided tons of other goodies too much to list. Looking to make close to 500rwhp with pump gas here. I shall see. This setup should be plenty for that.

Its actually in an s-13 chassis, using the stock fuel tank. The rear of the car is gutted, and car has a 6 point cage it in. The car is daily driven so I do place items in the hatch (one reason I don't want a surge tank). I'm under some time constraints currently to getting the car finished and moved out so a surge tank can always be an option for under the car at a later point. I'm aware of the 044's output however are you saying that because the power outputs don't add to each other? I understand that there will be loses with this setup so it will never see the full potential of both pumps, but it should be able to make over 600hp since the walbro is aiding it as well?

Well I'm going to be need more fuel for my new setup this year. However I really don't want to run a surge tank it seems like a hassle and not entirely needed at least from what I think.... could be wrong. I've been searching for a few hours now and am having trouble finding someone whose running their fuel pump(s) like this. Using my currently intank walbro 255 as the lift pump, but not using a surge, and off that same feed line, running the 044 bosch then to the fuel filter, the fuel rail, into the FPR and back into the tank for return. Any issues with this setup type of setup? heres a shitty drawing I did in paint for it. thanks.

Shafts are still for sale, wrapped up and ready to be shipped!

how long did it take him to tune start to finish? Also what did your tuner do about knock? or did he just stay conservative enough not to have to worry about it?

As the title states looking for an rb26 crank pulley bolt. have one for sale? email me at [email protected] thanks, -Cory

lol you shouldn't watch our shitty movies, and I'll find it.... I work for a company who can get like any bolt known... still looking...

Lol, I would if the States sold them at local Nissan dealerships....

Well as the title states I need to know the size and pitch of the rb26 crank pulley bolt. If anyone has any information I'd greatly appreciate it, mines missing for my rb26 crank and the rb25 one is too small. I did some searching and so far nothing. -Cory

I have a 35r that has a t4 exhaust flange. .68 a/r exhaust, and .70 inlet. 3 inch v-banded discharge as well.

We'll let me know. Still for sale.

Looking towards 400-450rwhp ish, depends what my 35r can toss out on pump gas, I see most people fill their oil up to the first hump on the dipstick as well. My block is fitted with dual restritors. CS_180 I know this has been covered before, I've read numerous topics and tons of pages about it. However I have found little info on whats done to the 25 pan, people say wings and baffles, ok I understand what they do, but its the placement I am unsure of, I'd like to make sure I'm helping my pick up not hurting it.