Shockster0429

Hello all, I'm currently building my rb25, into a 26/27- 87mm bore, 26 crank, 1.1 mm Cosworth HG so forth. I plan to track her a few times a year at some local courses. I'm planning on either using the JUN or N1 pump, not sure yet. However I also plan to run an oil cooler. Now the question arises on what to do for my stock rb25 sump for baffling, I'm a little unsure on how you guys do them, I have access to weld in pieces/trap doors to keep the oil around the pickup, but would just like to make sure I'll be doing more good than harm. any pics, or info would be appreciated. I've seen a ton of info on baffling for the 26 sump, just not really any for the 25? thanks, -Cory

still for sale!

still for sale! I'll do $580 AU shipped for both of these, make and offer if you don't like the price.

Heres pics with them together. I took a close up of the lobes and journals to show there perfectly new. Once again there is still assembly lube on them. I'm keeping them oiled so they don't rust.

PM Sent, thanks -Cory

Heres a picture of the exhaust shaft, I can get one of the intake as well if needed or then side by side. Excuse the assembly lube on the shaft, it shows you how new it was since it hadn't even came off yet after installation and removal. I checked some shipping costs as well, looks around $85-90 US for shipping for both cams to the AU.

Item:HKS intake and exhaust cam shafts 8.8mm lift 256 duration Age: 2 hours used, made a couple passes on the dyno basically NEW! Condition: Basically NEW Price: $425.00 US + shipping to the AU or USA To Fit: (What car) Skyline r33 rb25det late model s2 engine with BLACK CAS or any s1-s2 with black cas. Location:Ohio U.S.A. Contact: email: [email protected] Comments: I'm a verified Paypal member any questions of offers please feel free to contact me. Item will be insured for shipping, and once purchased will be shipped ASAP.

Datsqik, I think I'll just keep the standard 25 ARP studs, its not like I'm shooting for 1000rwhp+ here. I I just don't want any coolant or oil leaks when boost is added, and it seems as if people have had good success with other MHG's besides Cometics.... so I'll give XS a call Monday and possibly end up running the Cosworth. I appreciate the help, any on going discussion of the topic please go ahead, its good information. Yes the XS GT-R is a monster, Speed actually had a series called "street tuner challenge" Where 3 teams pick a car and build it. Its competition was a golf, and I think a saturn ion.. lol. No contest.

Datsqik thank you for the detailed response on the o-ringing, it sounds like it would be a better option for me to just stick with a MHG. I see the sizes that Power Enterprise listed for the rb25, they only have a 1.5mm HG.. I was looking for a 1-1.2mm max to keep the compression ratio up since I will be at 8.5 to 1 with my setup as it is, for this is a street car/ weekend racer. Re tapping my block for 26 studs, I'd most likely have to drill out my head as well? Also the head gasket holes, from what I remember they were rather tight on my ARP studs when installing the stocker? Heres a write up on the Cosworth MHG done by one of our major American GT-R experts any opinions on the matter? http://jdm-insider.com/Blogs/Eric/?p=386

Thank you, However I did find that earlier. I was looking more for information regarding the standard head gasket, o-ringed block, and ARP studs vs just standard HG, ARP studs vs MHG besides Cometic... I just don't trust their product from what I've seen and heard.

Currently I am building a 2.7 liter stroker out of my rb25. Using JE 87mm pistons, eagle rods, rb26 crank so on... I've had quite a few issues with my 25 over the last year, long story short, I want to place my motor together, stick it back in the car and not have to touch it for a long long time. This is what leads to me making this thread, I've done a good deal of searching on here for people who have o-ringed their block and haven't found much of anything. Any body doing it? are you placing a groove in the head, and block? What hg gasket are you using when doing it? Who feels this is nessarcy as compared to using a MHG. I'm looking into the Cosworth MHG if I don't o-ring, anyone have any issues with their MHG? ARP head studs will be in place as well. I plan to eventually run 30 + psi, with race gas through my 35r t4, maybe even upgrade down the road to something slightly larger, so I'd like to have ZERO HG leaks assuming its properly tuned and so forth... thanks for any insight. -Cory

What type of tire are you running?

Opps figured it was obvious, guess there is the IAC valve, and BOV .. so on and so on. Title fixed.

If anyone has a spare unmolested rb25 valve laying around that they could sell me I'd really appreciate it. I live in the states and have no way of getting one. [email protected] is my email if you could help me out I'd really really appreciate it. thanks for looking, -Cory

Yeah there wasnt any backfiring, it still sounded smooth like usual. Although nice plume of black smoke came out during that time... obviously unburnt fuel from the plugs being done... And at the end of the pull a nice blue cloud as well. No load bangs no explosions, no steam or smoke from the bay, anything like that.. NGK wasn't my plug, we had one plug that survived and place it back in the motor to see if she would even start with 5 fresh new plugs. Plugs are coppers gapped at .8mm, coils are bosch microtech ones. Being fed by an x6 box and lt12s computer.

no one has ever seen a CAS do this? or plugs burn like this before?

Well finally after a good deal of issues I was able to get my 35r rb25 back on the dyno this afternoon. Sorted out a glitching RPM issue.. "or so I thought" by cleaning out my CAS. Sure enough my car fired right up after this. This issue was a glitch that was being sent to the ECU by the CAS giving crazy RPM readings. For instance while cranking at 300 rpms, it might spike to 16000 rpm or 10000 rpm signal. Causing the piston to missfire at say bottom dead center making it impossible to start. Well I thought it was gone... anyway. Back to tuning. Car had been running for about 2 hours now, no issues. Tuner was making pulls in 500 rpms increments. Left the timing alone and was doing a/f tuning all at 11.2 +- .1. All was fine. Boost was set to 14psi. Made a 6500 pass no problem and put down 300rwhp.. keep in mind no timing settings were changed yet. So a 7500 pass was up next. Pull sounded fine, loud as **** so our ears are all covered so we might have not heard something... tuner is watching a/f's so he wouldn't have noticed the graph... Car hit redline, idled for a few seconds then shut off and died... Throwing an RPM code.. which was stating the RPMS are fu*ked. So tries cranking cranking, RPMS are spiking like they had been before when the car wouldn't start... Now the graph.. Looks like a mountain not a curve, all is good until around 5000rpms...... after that it seems to be devesation... Heres what my plugs now looked like. They got so hot that the conductor and porcilin was melted off pretty much all the way. My thoughts are that the CAS started glitching out around 5000 rpm throwing say an RPM signal of 16000 rpm in worst case senerio... most likely caushing some form of predetenation... My tuner thought it was valve float initatialy when he looked at the graph, he had a simillar issue with an SR. But after inspection of all the lifters and plugs we realized that wasn't possible.. compress test goes in 1-6 order, 120 110 110 120 100 60 ... We leak down tested her doesn't seem to be the rings since theres no crank case pressure leaking though... We are concluding that the tip of the plug's are no melted at the bottom side of my valves preventing them from closing all the way... or it might have damaged them. Anyone ever heard of a CAS doing this type of glitching? and any thoughts on the **** *** compression.. Motor will be removed in a few days for inspection of damage.. not cool for sure. Motor was looking to make about 400rwhp that pass at 14 psi w/o touching base timing.. she will be down for months now.

if you don't leave it completely loosening, if you add pressure to the MBC's spring it will increase the boost pressure. I wouldnt run more than 11-12 psi. After that its hit or miss on how long the turbine wheel stays attached...

will need your s1 gear box, and s1 oil pan. rest is pie. Most likely will need to do some minor wiring.

if you have an FMIC and exhaust its going to creep a bit... mine was creeping to about 9 lbs after installing mine. Its normal.

Well im wiring up my lt12s unit, and I've ran into a little issue on which wire is which for the s1 TPS.. I need to know what color is the 5v, TPS signal, and earth. we have in order if looking at the clip side of the plug a yellow wire, red-black wire, blue black wire. Im guessing the blue black is the 5v, signal is the yellow and red-black is earth, Just would like to verify. I checked the wiring diagram, I figured it out for my CAS since it was labeled but the TPS is not making sense any help would be awesome. thanks guys.

Yes I ran one similiar on my 25, just the FMIC's slates that allow the air to run through where perpendicular to that of yours. Worked just fine, 277whp on stock turbo at 11psi, lag from going to that from a side mount was unnoticeable.

I had a question about whether or not it is needed to upgrade the valve springs, now I know I can fit up to an 8.9mm lift cam into my stock rb25 head w/o have to remove any material, my motor has 100km on it currently. Will the stock valve springs be up to the task? I plan to rev her out to 7500-7700rpm. Also for any one wondering I am fixing the oil issue.. thanks

correct.. if tomei makes the restrictors obviously its a oversupply issue... why make something that isnt needed.

+1 Ive got this damn thread even bookmarked under favorites. Awesome info from SydneyKid