skyr33

The carbon build-up bits will glow white-hot and promote detonation by spontaneously igniting fuel mixture.

The video is copyrighted.You burn,you get burned (pun intended). You can pay me 5 easy installments of $1 interest free over 6 months.I could probably do it over 12 months too,but it will be $6.Dont say I didnt look after you.

I'll still be at work...Some other time I guess.

What time is the BBQ and where?

NismoR34- you recon I should put the price up? Its a joke btw

Noone has mentioned the logistics yet.Is there a meet coming up or something so I could just hand out the copies?

Ok people,I have almost finished the Heathcote video and need some input on a couple of things. The final format will most likely be SuperVCD and will play on domestic DVD players and any reasonable spec computer with CD-ROM drive and appropriate software(included on cd).If you have different preference let me know. Another thing-distribution.What are your thoughts?Pick-up,club meeting,COD?There will be nominal cost of say $5 to cover the blank cd's and such. Also,can people who are interested in aquiring the video put their hand up so I can guage the interest and number of cd's involved. If anyone has any quiries please post in this thread and I will answer them as best I can. Cheers.

Find the fuse for the fuel pump and pull it out while the engine is running.The engine will consume the fuel within the system and eventually stall.Crank it over a few more times just in case.Thats all.

BP Visco5000 is 7.5/30.Fast fours did a test on oils a while back.They ran an engine on the engine dyno with many different oils and sent oil and filter to the lab.They mesured power increase and metal partice size from each oil and BP gave good power increase and engine wear was 3rd best out of about 10 or 12 others.I dont remember all oter brands,but all major synthetic ones were tested.I used to get that ticking sound in my pulsar while running Mobil1,Royal Purple,Shell and Castrol.All synthetics basically.Within a few days of putting BP in the noise has gone.I was also hesitant to change the oil after 5k as I usually did because oil still looked very clean.

Car:'94 GTST Question: when I start the car and drive off,Passanger side door locks by itself after I reach a certain(still low) speed/revs.Has anyone else experiensed this?

Look up EKW in Zoom or HPI.

The effect of the fuel injector cleaner will depend on the condition of your fuel system.If injectors are dirty,then you may feel an improvement.But if they are clean already to begin with,naturaly there will be no benefit from using an injector cleaner.

There was an article in Hot4s a while back comparing different BOV's.I think they mentioned that you can get an EVO one from Mitsubishi(who can get it from Rallyart) for $150.They said that it is better then Bocsh and holds more boost.

Can you post a picture?Bythe sounds of it, muffler's guts are falling out, or someone had stuck some mesh in to reduse the noise.

Get your car to a proper suspension specialist joint and get it corner weighted.Sould improve your handling and traction considerably.

One weird looking dyno graph!In fact,the power curve looks a lot like the torque curve.I mean, when was last time anyone ever saw power curve dead-flat?Definetly looks like torque.And torque looks very much like the power curve.Except it peaks too early and drops-off too quick to be the power curve.Strange.Could be that the dyno parameters/software were not set-up correctly before the run or something.One weird looking dyno graph.

A/F meters are useless when ECU is in closed loop,but the moment you step on it, the meter should give stable reading.Run it on the dyno against a good A/F meter and maybe mark with texta different readings on the gauge itself.Otherwise its too generic with its Lean/stoich/Reach positions.

Airflow meter bypass is mentioned briefly in J.Edgars 21st Century Performance and there is also a pic.It goes without saying that you will also need to remap your ECU.But its the same deal with Z32 AFM.Even though both R33 and Z32 AFMs have 0v-5v operating range, Z32 AFM has different calibration,which means that for a given amount of air it flows,it will output less voltage compaired to R33 AFM.Connecting a resistor to R33 AFM will reduce its output voltage,but the moment AFM maxes out, the output voltage,albeit less then 5v(because of the resistor),will probably stay the same no matter how much more air will be drawn into the engine.Not a good idea.

The filter is the same as Ryco A360 and fits pulsars,skylines(upside down as noted before) sylvias and most commodores and subaru.

Probably had a lot to do with careful turbo selection too.

Autobarn will have a few pods to choose from.Unless you specifically looking for a brandname pod,simota or similar will do the job just fine.Probe inside the pod.Some like 3A racing have a proper bellmouth to aid flow.You will also need an adaptor which bolts onto the AFM,and pod bolts onto the adaptor.Plastic ones will cost you $10 bux,while s/steel is $60.Also put some thought into bracing the thing properly.You dont want to leave scratch marks all over the place.

Check out how much is insurance on the TypeR first.Could be expensive too.Also,check how much is insuranse for other Turbos like 200sx etc.You will find that some turbos you will insure for a reasonable money.

Just to stir the pot,below is a quote from another forum by a guy that says he works in the industry.If you want to read the whole thread here is the address: http://board.performanceforums.com/forums/...&highlight=agip "This whole comparison thing is killing me, so i will state what we found is best OVERALL for a turbo charged vehicle after several months of testing in the lab and on the dyno. But, i also must say that it is no reflection of how much better or worse and what is best for eveyones cars out there. Some might be better for performance, some for anti wear and some for length of life. When i get the chance i will post the full mcdaddy on a new thread that will have an explanation on the outcomes along with graphs on several of the factors listed. So here is what we found to be the best products for a turbo: 1. Elf Excellium 0w40 2. Mobil 1 0w40 3. Agip sint 2000 4. Castrol formula r 0w40 5. Motul 'somthingorather' 6. Mobil 1 5w50 7. Shell Helix (xWx) so on and so forth...i cant remember the type of motul or type type of shell off the top of my head and there were a couple of more we tested."

makaveli If you just filled-up at the servo and gave it some herbs on the way out,in the fuel line there would still be petrol from the previous fill.It takes a little more then a few seconds of idle to completly purge the system.As to how long exactly I dont know.Just a thought.