Shaun O
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Everything posted by Shaun O
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Used to lurk around here heaps but my car been stored away for the last 8 months so back on the car thing again. Live in Auckland, own an S14 Silvia with an RB30DET - not quite finished yet, hoping to finish it up this month or next, aiming for 300kw
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How Much Oil For Rb25 With Hks Oil Cooler
Shaun O replied to Kaido_RR's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I just fill my cooler up seperately, since I take it off to drain it for an oil change (highly suggest this too, it's really not that hard if it's in an easy to get to place). Then put the usual 4.5 litres or so then run the car, let it cool down and then check the dipstick. -
I just did my first oil change since I bought my car. (5,000ish km's) Put Motul 300V Chrono 10W40 in it. The oil smells bubblegum flavoured! And the car smells like it when it's running too, it's cool!
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Didn't have an issue at all today. Oh well, I'll dig this thread up if it happens again
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Ugh screamer pipe is so gay - or or - do you really want that sound every time you boost around? Get's f**king annoying after a while, trust me - though I don't know if an internal gate like that will be that loud. I wanna get my external gate screamer pipe plumbed into the exhaust ASAP, it sounds similar to that video if not louder and it f**ks me off.I can't believe people in the youtube comments say it sounds awesome. I also lol at how many RB20 and RB25's on youtube get revved past 8k rpm constantly.
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If I tried that, my car would just stall haha -- I would just throw it into 2nd gear and hit the brakes.
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It's an RB25DET S2 AFM, I have a 300ZX AFM here ready to go in whenever I can get the car tuned/chipped. Is it something that I can fix myself? Or if I open it up will it be easily spotted? Cheers.
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Just f**ked around with hose clamps and shit just to see if I can have it running a bit nicer for tomorrows driving. Started the car up, idling like f**kin' shit, hunting up and down, getting worse and worse and then stalling. 'f**k this' I think to myself, get in the car and just go for a wicked thrash. Park back up again, idling like a f**kin' dream and not being gay on low throttle, WTF! So see what happens tomorrow morning on the way to work! - Still going to replace the silicone 90 degree with stainless steel though.
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Yeah cheers, I tried my best but I think my hose clamps are being shit as well as the 90 degree silicone bend. Getting a 90 degree stainless welded onto the end of the intercooler piping to eliminate the 90 degree silicone bend and put a straight silicone joiner between the turbo and IC piping instead. Actually works out to be similar price in the end anyway, just a little more hassle but becomes better off in the long run. Going to get a new hose clamp as well to replace the one that I think is no good. Will post back results tomorrow night
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Changed the spark plugs, no difference - thought I wanted to change them anyway (and only $20NZD for the set, can't go wrong) Until on my way home, hit a little boost and FSHHHHH, the silicone joiner between the turbo and the intercooler piping blows off. I have a feeling this has been the problem all along, leaking out of top of this joiner. Gotta try my best to get it on real good tomorrow morning, will post back results.
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Thanks mate, will get the BCPR6ES and give 'em a go Can always change them if they aren't right anyway huh
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Thread dig but save making a new one, read all the info but still undecided between the two plugs, BKR7E or BCPR6E - I have an RB30DET, estimate around 250RWKW at 13~ psi boost, will be hopefully getting it tuned this weekend to be closer to 300RWKW at 19~ or so psi boost but will be mostly daily driven on 13psi boost still - should I go for BCPR6E as it's my daily driver? Cheers, ordering them tomorrow. It's a Series 2 RB25DET head if that makes a difference.
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you have heavy boost
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Well I just sprayed the AFM and all the coilpacks with iso alc - left it for a bit to dry then fired her up, it was doing the up n down up n down up n down revs at low throttle still but only for like 10 secs, from then on it seemed all good. I didn't have any long sockets for the spark plugs but will find some if it happens again over the next few days. Cheers guys.
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Nah, just a standard chipped ECU, it hasn't always been an issue and just seems to be intermittent, it barely did it at all on the way to work this morning. I'm still at work though so haven't tried the cleaning stuff yet. Haha, unfortunately that doesn't work so well in peak traffic Plus, I wish my car had a lawnmower style throttle instead of an accelerator pedal
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Thanks guys, will give all that a go tomorrow after work and report back results
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Cheers, I don't have any CRC AFM cleaner, will something like Isopropyl Alcohol work?
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Annoying problem that's crept itself up, on very very light throttle, the engine stutters a little, like, super light throttle (1k-1.5k~ or so RPM while in neutral) - it's not the throttle cable either because it does it when you manually give it throttle off the throttle body. Any ideas? Giving it a tad more throttle and it's no problems. It just makes the ride really jerky sometimes when driving in like 2nd gear at low throttle. It's an RB25DET throttle body (S2) Cheers.
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Got my vband clamp on, works great, love it
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89 was the first year Z32's came out so it's still possible that they are out of a Z32.. VG30DETT engine.. there may be some overlap though and they may be out of an 89 Z31 with the VG30ET engine.
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It was caused by not having a clamp on the v-band D: The first exhaust mount is about 2-3 feet back from the bottom of the dump pipe, nice and solid. It was also a very weak weld, looked like it was only supposed to be temporary maybe even.
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Speaking of v-bands... Just been working on the exhaust system. Unbolt the downpipe from the rest of the exhaust to get a piece of the exhaust out to weld the resonator into. Hmm, the downpipe connection onto the turbo exhaust housing seems a bit loose or something.. *rattle* WTF the dump pipe just fell off the turbo! *takes the turbo 'beanie' off* WTF there's no v-band clamp on the v-band connection, IT HAD BEEN WELDED ON!! D: I have no idea how long it has been broken off like that for since the dump pipe connection to the rest of the exhaust would've been holding it in place, but it would've been leaking like mad and still is! Gonna organise a v-band clamp now, luckily the exhaust housing isn't broken! Only the weld. In the pic, exhaust housing to the left, dump pipe hanging down on the right, you can see the broken weld on the turbo.
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Yeah I think the tach adapter is for the non-digital MSD RPM switch? Also, URAS, I couldn't find the part numbers you posted from jaycar but I found this http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...mp;SUBCATID=347 - but how can you use that to make it switch off again at higher RPM? And I could mod a Z32 ECU but I already have an RB20DET ECU that I got for free and the Z32 one would cost more than a VCT controller along with having to modify the Z32 ECU/my loom which I'd rather not.
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Silencing Exhuast, How To?
Shaun O replied to WrenchesInTheGears's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Similar question, I have an RB30DET with full 3 inch straight pipe from the turbo back to a 5 inch HKS super dragger muffler. I went to the exhaust shop today to ask the same quesitons but they were closed, would adding just a single resonator in the middle of the exhaust system make the car quieter and sound a bit gruntier/throatier/deeper? I want a nice growl but it needs to be quiet to pass a warrant of fitness. -
Sweet as, that's what I was thinking for adjusting it as well... Now to track down one of these little units without spending $50USD on shipping wtf D: