Shaun O

Unfortunately I'm not made of money, I'm probably going to use a NISTune daughterboard, I'm not really keen to spend $2k+tuning on a standalone ECU when I have a fairly basic engine. I wouldn't think hooking up a bunch of extra wires would be $2k+ worth of hassle. Ah sweet that someone has used it in the same way, I found a few forum posts about others using it on the same engines too so that's good. The engine has already been built with VCT retained so I may as well get a controller for it.

Hi there, I've had my RB30DET for a few months now, it's been running off an RB25DET ECU with a Mines chip (as far as I know) and seems to run 'okay'. Well apparently the RB25DET ECU is hard/expensive/not worth chipping for tuning. My mate gave me a working RB20DET ECU but problem is, my RB30DET has had VCT retained. Any recommendations on a controller to use to activate the VCT solenoid? (I assume it's as simple as that? I don't know much about it) I was looking at something like this: http://www.jegs.com/i/MSD-Ignition/121/896...roductId=754062 - anyone used one of these or something like it before with success? Cheers.

Sweet, one more quick question - does anyone know exactly which Subaru injectors can drop right in? Is it just the V5 440cc Yellow ones? Heard you can just put em in and turn the plug around the other way and they are sweet?

How much shipped to NZ? For 1. Cheers.

Quick question: if I upgraded from the stock 370cc ones to 650cc would it be drivable to the tuner to have the ECU chipped with them in?

Nice stuff - good to hear about pleasant surprises under a new hood rather than rangi-mods and nasty surprises

On a side note, is this a similar issue I sometimes have? Boosting hard and then coming to a very fast stop with a very fast drop in RPM usually causes a stall or a drop to 0rpm and quickly puffing back up again. It idles perfectly though.

can you not just turn the AFM around?

By my calculations using RB25DET Gbox/diff(4.111) in 3rd(1.302) with with 245/45/18's = 26.68" dia, = 167km/h @ 7,000rpm, which I did only 2 days ago But that wasn't my point, the point is if you want to feel the boost, 3rd gear goes high *enough* that you can safely go down into it when on the highway

I figured I would just post in an existing topic instead of creating a new one. What are peoples opinions on hiflowed stock injectors? Are they safe & reliable and comparable to Sards for example? Seems nice to be able to save a few hundred bucks on a direct-fitment item too.

Yeah no way your SMIC would be getting 'heatsoaked' if you are driving at 100km/h or so already. Just put're in 3rd gear, RB25DET GB+Diff goes up to 160km/h or so in third and you should feel a bit of pull but I think stock you'll only really feel pushed in the seat in 2nd? Personally though, as long as at some point you may be putting the boost up or maybe you just want the looks or the fun of modifying the car, I would just do it. Any cons produced by longer piping would probably be neglible and at least it's done which may motivate you to do more to the car.

Finally got around to doing it this weekend. Attacked an M10 bolt with an angle grinder, took off the thread and the head to be left with the smooth part Hacksawed the hose in half in the middle, bolt fits perfectly, smeared some gorilla glue on the bolt piece, put the hose back together, more gorilla glue at the join and then a hose clamp to finish her off Holy crap the difference in idle is like night and day, amazing, wish I had done it sooner.

Hey guys, here is how my catch can is currently setup: That is how the previous owner set it up, as you can see the PCV valve pipe is still there so you can actually feel the sucking on the catch can vent pipe( the pipe going down towards the rad from the catch can) but i'll be blocking the pcv valve this week anywho. At the moment the catch can is using heater hose but I got some better heat resistant hose to put on this week too, just a quick Q if I do all this while engine is cold it's not gonna spew oil everywhere is it? (replacing the catch can hoses and blocking off the pcv valve that is) Also another Q is at the moment the catch can vent pipe has no filter on the end but once I block off the pcv valve will I even need one since it will no longer be going into the intake? cheers! Be interesting to see if the idle is a bit smoother once the afm knows wtf is going on properly since atm it hunts a little bit sometimes.

Hey guys - got an S14 with RB30DET at the moment but it failed a WOF check on 'play in front shocks' I took it to a local guy (not a suspension guy) and jacked it up but had a check and it did have a bit of play But he wasn't sure what could fix it and the guy from MIDAS next door said you couldn't, just had to get new shocks However the guy that sold me the car said that the WOF guy showed him a threaded nut that felt like it was moving slightly but when he tried to tighten it it just kept spinning and spinning and didn't have the right tools to do it properly. I told the guy at the shop about this but failed to mention the nut you can see when removing the wheel - so I will bring it up when I'm back there tomorrow. But does anyone have any idea what I'm on about? The car has GAB fully adjustable suspension.

Semi-related, Is the washer pump/moto interchangable between R32 and R33?

Don't even need an hour, just unplug battery, stamp on the brakes, turn on your lights, etc, to fully drain power and hook it back up again

Hey Spoolup, have you got a better idea of price now on the full kit? Whattya reckon that should rev to?

I think when choosing cams you need to take everything into consideration Rev Limit Gear Ratios --These come together, to find where you're at on your upshift Turbo Cams Combining all these, best turbo for early spool to bring you all the way to your rev limit You may not need a high rev limit if you're upshifts bring you to a sweet spot so you can opt for an earlier spooling turbo Then based on where that sweet spot is, cams with duration to suit that rev range I would do that for track anyway, drag and stuff would probably be a bit different I think this post gives a good fairly general guide of durations http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4002120

Hey guys quick question.. Haven't got a block yet, but first thing I do will be to strip it down and go get it checked over before I rebuild the thing myself I'm gonna get some pricing from some engine rebuilders around me, to help with the planning What are the things do you guys think I should be asking for? I hear you don't really need to rebore the cylinders So just get pricing on machining the deck, acid dipping, repositioning of the tensioner, crack testing? Anything else I should get pricing on? Plan for worst, hope for the best really.

No it doesn't. And I'm an idiot -_- why would the diff ratio affect the RPM on the upshift zzzz Anyone know if the GTR gearbox has any strength difference to the GTS-4 one?

Awesome, just posting here for bookmarkage and damn usefulness, especially that program Today, I was talking to a friend about choosing the right turbo&cams to suit an 8k rpm redline but he suggested that you may not even need such a high redline, if you can just pull down a gear and still be on full boost and in peak power He had a excel graph of his gear ratios but this is way better, will pass it on as well.. Will have to play around with combinations of the GTS4 diff/gbox and GTR diff/gbox. Basically going to be building a 4wd Rb30DET into a GTS4 next year, but unsure of whether going to use the GTS4 or GTR diff/gbox (or combination) Does anyone have the ratios of the GTS4 diff and gearbox? I did a quick google but didn't get anything, will take another look after dinner Edit: looks like the GTS-4 and GTR gearboxes are the same ratios (im talking R32 here btw ) but the diff ratio on the GTR is 4.111 and GTS-4 is 4.375 -- correct?

I always thought the xmembers and engine mounts were the same across the board, even with the gtr/gts4 and non 4wd models, probably wrong there though, but if not wrong then it should have enough clearance but not sure about fouling on anything else (see above ^^)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/bl...hauno/index.php? Just throws a ton of PHP errors What can I do? I don't mind clearing the whole thing (well, it would be nice to keep it) if I have to. But in my user profile, I can still view the individual posts under the 'Blog' tab, I just can't view the blog as a whole. Thanks

Sounds interesting, do you have before and after plots of this?

What kind of setup would you need to pull 7500-8000 rpm just out of interest?