ydawak

I'll reply in English. Im from Sinzig, down the Rhine a bit. But have many family in Köln and surrounds

Wilkommen zu dieser Seite. Ne schöne Kiste haste da ming jung. Kölle is ne schöne Stadt und jezt n bisschen schöner.

Thanks for the advice guys. For privacy reasons i dont want to publicly complain about anyone and what they do, if you really want to know who has tuned my car i have no issue in letting you guys know via pm. I have had the car looked at by Confidyne also, and they said that the tune looked ok at the time before i got the car back. Having said that, the car was only there for about 30mins to an hour so i imagine that it was a glance from Confidyne. KiwiRS4T - I am just running NGK plugs and they seem to be doing the job fine. I just cleaned them again the other day and it starts again now. The car makes 310rwkw on bp98 @18psi. Its running -7's my tuner is happy to check the tune again, I just have to wait till hes free again. Hopefully that'll be end of Jan start of Feb. I just hope its all resolved once and for all

Hello all, I just had a quick question i would like some opinions on. I have a 26/30 in my Vl calais and it is running twins at 18psi. A haltech 500sprint is the Ecu that is running it all. Just quickly because i get any responses about talking to my tuner about my issues, I have done this and am in the process of continuing this, however with the new year upon us things are a little slow on the response end and i just wanted to get a few more opinions so i don't feel like a total useless twat when talking about whats going on. So basically whats happening is that the car is running a bit rich (i was told by my tuner) as the haltech does not have a pre mapped cold start function (told by tuner). Now the car keeps fouling the plugs. I have changed the plugs 3 times in 500kms. Admittedly i dont drive it very often. Initially i was told that my car alarm was draining my battery and the haltech doesnt run well off lower voltage so that was causing things to malfunction. Now that i have a trickle charger in the car the battery is always topped up, but things are still amiss. Also another thing i have trouble with, is that the car stalls under deceleration. When i change gears from 3-2 or 2-1 in town it stalls between gear changes. Unless i keep the revs up. The car idles at 1250 rpm when warm, however i had to up this a little because it was idling at 400rpm when cold. My question to the forum is: Is this all related to the tune? AF ratios and so forth? or could there be something else im missing??? The engine is pretty much brand new. every bit in and on it are new except the rods which are off the dirty 30. Thanks in advance If i have left out any info just tell me what i might need to add to give you gurus a better idea on things. Cheers

Would you sell just the valley cover?

Interested in dumps if you willing to separate

Bump

Hey all, I am in the process of building an RB26/30 and upon pulling apart my current engine, I found some low compression forged pistons in it. As was after some higher compression ones, these are now for sale They are: Nissan RB30ET Forged 7.8:1 comp ratio. So if anyone wants some decent pistons with a little bit of typical carbon wear, send me a pm We can arrange transport at buyers expense I am looking for $500 Cheers Ben

The dude i am trying to use, who shall remain nameless, has not picked up the car and its been 2 weeks. Then said it will take 1 day for the car to get from Sydney to Melbourne, and then another 10 days from Melbourne to Tasmania? Any names or contacts would be appreciated

Thanks zoomzoom very helpful and informative. I will look into it some more at a later point. There are plenty of things that i can do in the mean time but i get what your saying with respect to the air core gauge

As i am not very knowledgeable in the circuitry of the internal dash components and i am not claiming that i know exactly how they work , i can only attempt to describe what i mean. I will do this with the best paint skillz that i have. I hope this helps to explain 2 things. 1) that i am a moron that doesnt understand dash circuitry and 2) that the thing im wondering is if you can change is, the thing behind the fascia (which controls the speedo pin/dail).

Paid!! great forum to support my only issue is - now i get this error message: "E-mails Bouncing" Emails that we send to you are being returned to us. If our emails continue to bounce, we will stop sending emails to you. [update Your Email Address] I have updated it twice now to 2 different e-mails and none of them work?? wtf? Spam filter is a bitch - and i am a doodlebrain for not checking it.... disregard my dribble please

Hey Jiffo Yes the speedo works at present. as does the tacho. I don't imagine it makes a difference that its an 26/30 not 25/30 - the ecu pins should be the same. your mate has a nice setup there. the fascia will be different. My original question was, whether its possible to have a different internal mechanisms behind the fascia (ie. 300km/h from gtr nismo dash). However through some lucky surfing and finding out some info from some friends it seems that maybe that doesn't even need to be done.

http://www.gweeds.net/RBModule/rbmodule.html here is the link... here is the face, its something like what im thinking of... The beauty of printing your own dials means you can do what you want with them here are some pictures of the prints I used I surrounded the gauges with carbon fibre stick on film. The GSR of course stands for Guido Seevens Racing. The Speedo has been roughly recalibrated so that it matches with the speedo drive out of the Nissan gearbox (My 100k is where a standard commodores 80k is) And the top end brought up from 200 to 240. The rev counter has been extended to 9 grand (tho the motor is limited at 6800rpm). The whole lot was printed on high quality white paper with a colour photocopier. The paper was then stuck to 0.5mm thick white Polystryrene sheet behind which I stuck 2 layers of blue cellophane so that the dash has a blue glow at night. This is to be replaced by Electro Luminescent sheet which will give it the Indiglo type effect. The gauges will then be printed on transparencies. The satellite switches and boost gauge have been illuminated with blue LED's